StrangerDanger

I’d recommend disassembling your magazine tube and cleaning it. Do not lubricate the magazine at all. It will cause fowling and buffering media inside the shells to collect. Clean the receiver extension and lubricate it with an old that doesn’t cause problems in cold weather. Test your trigger pack removed from the firearm to make sure its components are moving freely without the feeling of grittiness. The hammer should rotate smoothly. Be sure your bolt carrier group is clean and well lubricated. Sing an inertia operated shotgun, fowling can cause performance loss. Any aftermarket items present on the gun? If so, returning to stock may isolate where the problem is. If you have a smart phone with a slow motion setting, have someone film the action while you’re firing. This will often give clues to see where a problem is occurring. Such as the bolt not traveling far enough back to properly load a new round.

If you’re mechanically inclined at all, you can do the job yourself with maybe a few tool purchases that you might not have like the torch. It’s pretty safe to do, you’d have to really go out of your way to do any damage. I’d be glad to walk you thru the process. The link posted gives a pretty good run down on the process. If you don’t want to try it yourself, I do replace these for customers several times a month. I hold a FFL to make transfers painless. Briley will thread your barrel if you wish with the Benelli mod choke system. I just had a customers done by them on a 14” barrel and it came out quite nice and didn’t take very long to do. You can shoot slugs thru your current barrel no problem.

That's about what I do when I don't have a factory torque spec.

Are there two small holes in the buttpad? If so, lubricate a philips screw driver and press it into the holes until it engages with the philips screw. Then unscrew as normal, just be sure to keep applying pressure to engage the screw.

It doesn’t matter. However I set mine so the spring leg thru the middle is horizontal. It’s possible that the spring will walk around overtime.This is light switch screw orientation level stuff.

Oh if you have that extension, then you won't be using the spring retainer.

Correct. You rarely need to clean inside the magazine tube.

The frame counts as a compliance part as well as the trigger, hammer and disconnector. So you’ve got four parts in the bag with this swap. Magazine tube and magazine follower and you have a bit of breathing room.

You need a good set of snap ring pliers. Something like the Channellock brand that hold the tips in firmly. If you try to use one of those sets that are floppy donkey ducks, it’ll just twist on you and cause you problems. Some of the Briley carbon fiber tubes are quite tight and require you to squeeze quite hard in order to compress the spring retainer enough to fit inside the tube. Some guys even use a hole clamp to squeeze the retainer enough to fit part way, then release the hose clamp and hammer the retainer the rest of the way in with a rubber mallet. I personally prefer having the retainer in place. Your garage fluorescent light tubes with have less anxiety and there is a lot less chance of getting smacked in the mouth by that can of snakes.

In all of the trigger packs I've fixed, the A&S frame does the trick without any fitting of the parts. This fitting would remove the NP3 plating which would likely hurt the performance. It may also remove surface hardness which may lead to problems down the road. Anytime you can avoid changing the seer contact surface, you should go that route.

The issue lately seems to be the polymer OEM trigger frame having a wandering or new spec. Lately I haven't seen any of the polymer frames function with the FFT trigger kit. You're hammer is definitely hanging on the disconnector shown in your photo. This is the exact issue I usually see and I've rebuilt around a 100 of these trigger packs. You have three directions you can go to fix this; 1. Buy an A&S Engineering trigger frame. They copied the original OEM aluminum frame specs which allows these trigger kits to drop in. 2. Return the FFT trigger kit, and send your polymer OEM frame to Briley. They fit their parts to the OEM polymer trigger frame. This could also be done with the A&S Engineering frame. 3. Try to remove material from the FFT hammer seer. Not an ideal solution since you'd be removing surface hardened and NP3 plated material from the seer contact face. Personally, I would go with the first option. You'll really like the A&S Engineering trigger frame. It will also count as another US made part. https://ansshotguns.com/?product=enhanced-trigger-guard-benelli-m4

Only the Argo and piston pricing seems a little rapey.

Some years we hang polished 30’06 cases from the tree. Primers were knocked out to run a string thru.

The benefit would be how fast you could get the parts. Having your own parts plated yourself would be quite a bit cheaper. You'll just have months of down time waiting for them to get done.

Interesting. They do appear to be NP3. The only thing that I saw that was Cerakote was the false magazine tube which indicates its Cerakote.

If you don’t like the cluttered field of view with one of the micro optics, you can always remove the iron sights. You’ll cut around 4 ounces of weight and streamline the view.

I don’t believe the barrel serial number ever matches the receivers serials. They’re not even the same serial structure. The receiver holes won’t hurt anything.

Just remove the trigger pack then cycle the action. If that rough spot is gone, we can narrow the issue down to the trigger pack being the issue. Sounds like when the carrier makes contact with the hammer. We can then access if there is something wrong with the trigger pack and we might be able to isolate what part is giving you trouble.

I’ve seen this a bunch lately. Benelli has been getting sloppy with their quality control. I believe it is flux or some kind of braze applied to the gas plug housing before brazed in place. It won’t hurt anything, it’s just sloppy work.

Given that you have access to an identical model, you could try putting the trigger pack into your father’s gun and see if the problem is present on his. This would isolate if the issue is in a specific component. You could also pull the trigger pack out and cycle the action to see if the gritty sluggish feeling is present. If the problem appears to be in the trigger pack, manipulating the hammer with your thumb might give you a hint to where the problem is. You could try swapping the bolt carrier group to isolate. I would have focused on the main spring being the issue, but you’ve said it is clean and even swapped action springs to no avail. Visually check the recoil tube for rusting or debris inside the tube. If none of this seems to be helping, start looking inside the receiver where the bolt travels on the rails. Look for signs of impact or binding. I’ve had this occur on a M4 in the past. You could take the action spring out and cycle the bolt with the trigger pack removed to feel for signs of binding. Another thing to be aware of is how lubricants perform in cold weather. Some bind up solid when it’s cold and affect performance.

It’s about that cold here too. Not much snow unfortunately so far. Sharp looking Ranger! I had to rebuild the front end on my 2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Pro after I hit a mule deer recently. No mechanical damage, just a bunch of plastic and sheet metal parts.

Depends where you drive. If you’re on flat land, you could pull off around 300 miles. If you’re driving up hill with the AC running, you’re only going to get about 200. However if you’re driving downhill, you can drive literally forever since it recharges with the regen braking system. I drive pretty aggressively with it, which probably isn’t the best for mileage. You have to warn you passengers when you’re going to pass a car since it’ll snap their neck into the headrest when you punch it. No RPM range to mind, no delay in peddle acceleration, no gears to pay attention to. Hard acceleration makes a cool noise from the electric motor that sounds like the ghostbusters proton pack spooling up. You can hammer the peddle on loose gravel on pavement and it’ll dial the power back to keep you from spinning the tires. Which is nice since you effectively have 450-500 horsepower in an instant. No rpm band to spool up to. It has four cameras that record at all times in 1080 resolution around the vehicle. It has captured some stupid stuff already. Even when you’re at the store, it’s recording. Being an Alternative Fuel Vehicle here in Arizona, that qualified it for significantly reduced registration costs. It was only a couple hundred bucks and that got me a five year tag. That alone saved me several thousand dollars over the next five years. It lets you drive in the HOV lanes by yourself too.

Same to all. Share pics if you got any good presents! Mine came a bit early. Funnest, fastest car I have ever had. And I’ve had some fast cars.

I can machine the caps, normally I have them on hand that are already Cerakoted, but at the moment they're all in the white. No issues with the carbon fiber magazine tube. I've only fired them a few hundred rounds since their installation this summer. The carbon builds up on the magazine tube like all mag tubes, but it wipes off easily. This mainly occurs beneath the handguards around the ARGO system.

Finally got around to upgrading my Benelli's and rifles to the new Modlite weapon lights. This has been an massive increase in output compared to the M600IB lights I was using. I had looked at doing the M600DF models, but I wasn't very impressed with the output. For the Benelli's, I went with the PLHv2 lamp heads since they have a little more spill. With this upgrade I had to move over to the IWC weapon light mounts. I machined the tailcaps on the Benelli's to remove the shroud around the button. I'll get them Cerakoted eventually.