StrangerDanger

My concern is the seat ring on the barrel being seated fully against the receiver. From your photo, it appears to be a significant gap between the seat ring and the receiver. If this gap isn’t closed, you’ll likely experience failure to fire situations since the bolt will not be fully engaged. So any strikes from the firing pin will be minimal. The overall length of the handguards appear to be preventing the barrel to seat fully. You would have to locate where this is and continue to shave the handguard down to permit a proper seating. You’ll want to compare the seat depth to the oem handguards so you know what to aim for. This is one of those areas where if you remove too much material, it will be just as bad since the handguards will no longer seat firmly. This seating stabilizes the barrel as you ratchet the barrel nut down.

Cool write up and pics. The M4 pokes into the Limbsaver as well when fully collapsed. What does the end of the receiver extension look like?

Good job! The most important thing is keeping the heat away from that Cerakote finish on the receiver. Those oem 5 round tubes are all but worthless anyway.

I'd wager what you are seeing is lead deposits from the slugs. Try getting a good bore brush like a Tornado brush, and go to town on it. You'll see what look like silver flakes come out. This is lead that was left in the barrel.

Maybe call Benelli and tell them yours broke. Maybe they'll send you a new one?

Never used these guys, but they list it: https://divisionmogul.com/benelli-m4-shell-release-lever-spring/

The trigger kit is pretty easy to install. I wrote a tutorial with photos here. I find the Benelli trigger pack to be quite easy. No difficult spring to compress or complex assemblies. Arisaka or IWC will have MLOK mounts for the Strike Industries rail. You can probably get by mounting to the MLOK rather than adding an IWC That rail is pretty comfortable, but the attachment system sucks with tiny set screws. Some users have used RTV to build up a mounting bed for the rail so that those set screws aren’t needed.

No restrictions for a WTS ad on this forum.

Sling and light. A long gun sucks if you can’t sling it when you need your hands to do other tasks. Having to keep both hands on along gun without a sling is very limiting. I like the BlueForceGear padded two point sling. Sewn in QD sockets are nice. IWC makes a socket for the collapsible stock. Noveske makes one for the fixed oem stocks. I’d look at Modlite offerings for a light. The PLHv2 is very good for the shotgun. Put it on an IWC mount. I’d stick with the oem hand guards or get the FFT reproduction ones if you’re chasing 922 parts. Have them stippled by Tango Industries. Install either the Carriercomp titanium magazine tube or the Briley carbon fiber one. Briley will be the lighter of the two. Oem steel: 10.5 ounces Carriercomp titanium: 5.5 ounces Briley carbon fiber/stainless steel: 3.4 ounces Install a Limbsaver buttpad on the stock. There are various options depending on what stock you settle on. Replace the trigger frame with an A&S Engineering one. Have Briley install their trigger kit or install a FFT kit yourself. Add a FFT enhanced shell elevator. Replace the safety with a Dave’s Metal Works one. Add a GG&G oversized bolt release. Look at the new TTI stainless bolt handle. Consider deleting the iron sights to declutter your optics sight picture and to cut about 4-5 ounces of weight. From there, the only way up involved NP3 plating and loading port modifications.

Look up A&S Engineering trigger frames. They’re beautifully machined aluminum. The ejector is pretty easy. When the bolt travels rearward with the shell hooked on the extractor claw, the rim of the case makes contact with the ejector which directs it out the ejection port. Being spring loaded reduces wear and tear on the shotgun since it isn’t hitting an unmovable part. The ARGO system sounds more complex than it is. You saw the two ports from the barrel. Each port feeds the gas chamber of the ARGO system for each piston. The piston sits free floating in the system. With the bolt to the rear, you can hear them slide fore and aft as you tilt the shotgun. Inside the regulating portion of the ARGO system is a blast cup which is held in place by thick diameter springs. When the pressure exceeds the required amount of force set by the spring, the excess gas is able to vent out the front of the plug under the hand guards. The blast cup and pistons aren’t super tight fitting, so there is a lot of play to permit function once they get dirty. You’ll note the pistons have crud cutters and Chanel’s thru the middle section or each piston. These allow the gas to move freely forward against the piston to drive the bolt carrier rearward. It gives the crud a place to go too. Avoid oiling the pistons since they will burn it away quickly and turn the oil to carbon. It’s a pain to clean and does little to help function. The pistons are stainless so it isn’t likely that they’re going to rust on you. The system will function without pistons pretty reliably. I broke one piston and the shotgun kept running until the broken end of the piston jammed the action. Pulling back the bolt carrier and tilting the shotgun threw out the broken piece and it still functioned.

Stack seven of them and that 1/16 turns to 7/16, or nearly a half an inch extra.

I’m sure the Wolff spring is the same diameter wire, Carriercomp probably just has an overall length spec. So you should be able to trim as aznwhip stated, just don’t go to far. Shell length is going to vary significantly from manufacturer to manufacturer. I wouldn’t take their stated sizes as gospel.

You can gauge how close you are when trying to insert the 7th round. Feel or look to see how close that round is to seating. If half the shell is sticking out, chances are you cannot safely trim the spring short enough to permit that much more of the shell to compress. A quarter inch is doable. If you trim too much spring, you can end up with a situation where the spring isn’t strong enough to reliably eject shells onto the elevator. Particularly the last round in the magazine tube. The last round will have the weakest spring tension of all the rounds. My favorite spring is the Carriercomp spec Wolff spring. I don’t think I have ever had to trim one. Just know that some shells are longer than the 2 3/4 inch size standard.

We could always cock the straight one to keep your OCD happy! I could see the canted stock being more comfortable. We teach to cant pistols slightly when shooting one handed or to bias towards a dominant eye.

I’d agree with the quality control issues lately. I can definitely fix that up if you’re sure you don’t want to try a crack at it first.

Agreed. I’d test to see how much slop there is in the extension. Just rock the stock back and forth while it is locked into the fully collapsed position. Note the farthest movement each direction. Normally the stock will rock back and forth around 3 degrees.

Should have a 3 position tube on that model unless someone swapped it out (unlikely.)

I probably wouldn’t put KY inside the stock. It might be hard to get out! Every time you take someone shooting and they shoulder the gun, they’ll say, “Do you smell Astroglide?” and start the judgement.

That model should have the necessary 3 position receiver extension on it. A collapsible stock should drop right in and function.

I have encountered a FFT set that did not ‘drop in’ to the A&S frame recently. The hammer would hang up on the disconnector. It only requires a light amount of filing to get the clearance needed on the hammer/disconnector side of the sear. Dozens of others I’ve done this past year have been perfect and dropped right in. Luck of the draw I suppose.

Best to contact Scalarworks. There should have been three small bags with the mounting hardware marked A,B and C.

Agreed. I had a set come in last week that was hanging up on the disconnector when using the A&S frame and the FFT set. Some careful filing was needed to get the clearance.

You could ask for a photo of the receiver extension. It’ll have the 3 position as long as it hasn’t been tampered with. Another option is to swap out your existing extension for a functional one. A lot cheaper than buying a whole new shotgun.

Glad to help. Yes, the 11794 should have the 3 position receiver extension.

Oh and the seller on gunbroker was a F’ing nightmare. I think he was based in Israel. For some reason he sent two invoices that equaled the final billing. Whatever, I paid it. Two months later I cancelled payment since they hadn’t shown up and the seller wasn’t responding. A few weeks later it arrived. So I told PayPal to go ahead and pay him again. After that he kept sending messages and trying to involve gunbroker stating I didn’t pay. I had to send them copies of the statements for both payment amounts showing that they went thru to him. Gunbroker finally got tired of him and told him to go pound sand and to check his records better. It ended up being like 4 months or emails.