StrangerDanger

That’ll work!

I’m not sure about the new production numbers. Considering they didn’t give a Serial range, it seems it will be an ongoing production run.

Your recoil spring didn’t kink up or look funny after using the MAPP torch? They can get hot fast and damage springs.

The first 60 11711 that came with a collapsible stock was an attempt to consider the M4 a US production shotgun since the ATF classified refinishing as firearm manufacturing. The ATF shut that down quick. However that first 60 made it out with evil features and is generally left alone by the ATF. I don’t know of anyone who gets harassed for their shotguns in free states outside of some spectrum dwelling Range Nazi Fudd.

Benelli is usually 4-6 weeks in my experience. Without whatever fixture they have to swage the detent, it doesn’t seem to be something the end user can fix.

I always wanted the 0666 M1014. Never saw it rear its head though. I fixed probably 2% or the original run with correct receiver extensions. The M1014’s only real value is it comes with a collapsible stock. That way you aren’t paying gouger pricing for one. You’re stuck replacing the receiver extension however.

It shouldn’t have any, but it is possible someone messed with it. I would try heating them area with a heat gun to try to break down whatever thread locker may be present. What kind of screw driver are you trying to use to unscrew it?

I would say so.

Wish I knew myself. I looked at the assembly and it appears the spring and detent enter from the front of the barrel hanger. It's hard to see what actually retains the detent though. It looks like the area is swaged with some kind of punch or crimp to prevent the detent from coming out. This seems really difficult to do yourself without whatever specialized fixture they have for doing the job. The only way it appears it can work is the barrel is deformed around the edge which stops the detent at the shoulder shown above.

Anyone notice that Benelliparts has a new charging handle for the Benelli M4? Other than being steel, it appears to be very similar to the carriercomp charging handle. https://www.benelliparts.net/store/p44/PRE_ORDER_1%2F2”_Steel_charging_handles_for_the_Benelli_M4_shotgun_ETA_3-4_weeks.html

Here is the part you need to make the collapsible stock functional: https://www.benelliparts.net/store/p21/Benelli_M4_M1014_3_Position_Recoil_%2F_Adjustment_Tube.html You'll then need to add 922 compliant parts to make it legal. The issue with the receiver extension is it isn't very easy to swap out. I've done several dozen of them over the years for customers. I put a tutorial together a few years ago outlining the process for people to gauge if it is something they are capable of tackling themselves;

Disassemble and clean the magazine tube. Do not put any lubricant inside the magazine or on the follower. All it does is collect grit, carbon build up and buffering media from inside shot shells. Clean the rest of the firearm well and lubricate well. I'd follow the USMC tech manual's recommendations for lubrication. Try different heavy rounds to see if the failures continue to occur. If so, describe the failures in detail. Like short stroking or leaving empty shells in the chamber.

Looks great! What part of California are you from? I've hung out in the Mojave a lot. Being in California, do you have that stock pinned? If not, be careful. I'd run a little lighter on the lube. With the trigger pack, you want a lubricant on the pivot points of the components held in place by the trigger pin bushing. Then wet to the touch on the the breech latch and the face of the hammer. On the sear contacts, you want a good grease like Brian Enos' Slide Glide. I like their grease since it doesn't stink when it gets on your hands. Running super wet doesn't give you much benefit in performance and tends to collect carbon and shot buffering media that flies around while the action is cycling.

Make Benelli fix that. There is a spring then a detent that the teeth of the cap ratchet on. I believe the detent is crimped or swaged in place. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1439770A https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1439760A

My default is to go with the RMR RM09 which is a 1 moa dot size optic. I don't see a reason to ever use the larger moa dots. The 1 moa is fast to find since you have a pretty solid cheek weld that guides your face to the optic. Currently on mine are 3.5 moa models since the smaller dot size ones were moved to other platforms. I don't like busy sights and I hate looking thru a tube on a firearm that is meant for more close quarters engagements. So I remove the iron sights from my M4's that have the RMR present. This cuts about 4 ounces of weight which more than offsets the gains of the RMR and Scalarworks Sync rail. Now if you find that the optic sits too low, there are spacer options of 2.5 and 10mm that will raise the optic slightly. This may make sighting more comfortable when using the middle position of the collapsible stock.

Glad to hear you're making some progress. Hopefully you didn't modify the disconnector too much that it causes issues with the A&S frame.

I imagine you're using the polymer trigger frame. I have experienced this multiple times when installing the FFT trigger kit. The only surefire way to resolve the issue without modifying the fire control parts is to buy the A&S Engineering trigger frame. These frames are much better made than the OEM ones and I haven't found one that needed any kind of fitting. The frame counts as a 922 compliance part as well. Your only other option is to continue modifying the disconnector until it's 100%.

The Cerakote models start out as a black phosphate finished barrel. The. The barrel is media blasted to rough up the finish for Cerakote adhesion. I’d say the Cerakote is a superior finish from a protection and abrasion standpoint. Then again, I’ve worked on a lot of Benelli M4’s and I have never seen a barrel with surface rust on it.

Alan - While I prefer not to modify trigger sears, it will probably work fine for you. The biggest issue is now knowing those components are now fit to that trigger frame. If you were to upgrade to an A&S Engineering frame down the road, those trigger parts may not function in it. Best thing to do is to test fire it a bunch and see if your failures return. Conducting the safety check of the trigger pack is also very important.

It's pretty typical. The end of the link where the pin is flexes when squeezed. The staking also applies pressure to the link sides.

Sure thing. Always willing to help. PM me or send me an email at: [email protected]

Best luck I have had is with Optics Planet lately. It still took a month for them to source it.

You got it. The 11718 is much nicer!

Like a Harley Davidson brand boat.

I believe that Benelli is modifying the hammer to fit their wildly out of spec polymer trigger frames. I believe the trigger bushing pin hole and the front trigger pin has a lot of tolerance issues. Which leads me to recommend leaving it stock if you’re using the polymer frame. The old oem aluminum frames were good for an aftermarket host. The A&S definitely works well with them. I have little use for their loading ramp design, but the rest of the frame is build superior to anything Benelli has ever made. The aluminum OEM frames were very roughly cast with lots of molding flashing.