StrangerDanger

Near the end where the battery’s positive terminal is smashed in presumably from recoil. I only saw the issue with one battery. So I’m not sure if it’s a fluke or not yet.

Just that you’ll spend a bunch of money!

Actually I have encountered that with the KeepPower batteries once. Mine looked just like theirs. I don’t know if the battery just wasn’t made right or if I didn’t have the end cap or headlamp tightened fully which allows the battery to slosh around and damage the positive terminal.

That’s the proper way to install the Velcro backing onto the receiver.

Glad to help. The light looks good! Stay away from the Modlite website!

Never seen those before!

How many rounds thru it since it was last cleaned?

I agree it’s pretty rough on the machining. Either the tool bit needed changed or someone didn’t follow up and hand fit it with a file before the chrome was done. Either way it won’t affect anything. I can’t see the rivet very well. Being a rivet, the parts are deformed during the install. High spots sometimes need filed off to permit seating of the barrel into the receiver. I’d leave it alone, shoot it and see if it fails before attempting to send it back to Benelli. At this point they’d likely say its in spec and to go away.

He last visited the site on August 14th. So I imagine he’ll see it soon enough.

Have you tried messaging benelliwerks?

Esstac makes the ones I usually use. There may be other brands out there that provide similar performance. If you buy multiple Velcro sleeves, you can rip them off and on as needed. Some people set up chest rigs with Velcro on them so they can swap out the carriers as needed.

The ratcheting or closed box wrench type won’t work since there isn’t enough room to slip the wrench over the end of the nut in the tight space under the front sight tower. I bought the Craftsman ignition set about a decade ago.

It has been a lot of work, but looks great. Can’t wait to send it home to its owner!

FFT has been stepping up their game on getting oem parts and NP3 plated parts. They’re extremely pricey though.

Bottom two went home this past week. Second from the top should be going home this week. The FDE one is still waiting for some corrections on paint.

Nice. I think I’ve seen those around. sidearmor used to make something similar that bolted to the barrel assembly that didn’t need any tools for disassembly. It was like the precursor to their rail systems that got really bloated.

What mount is the Cloud Defensive light attached to?

Knew you’d be a FDC guy too! I’d add to get a Briley choke wrench and their choke grease. The factory choke tool might as well be thrown in the trash. It’s only value is the thread cleaning portion. Grease your steel chokes or they will rust.

There were around 60 released to dealers that had the full length magazine tube and a functional collapsible stock. The ATF shut that down pretty fast. After that, Benelli made a bunch of the NP3 plated M4’s after that. Then Benelli switched things up and started Cerakote them instead of NP3 without changing the H2O naming scheme. So a lot of people have bought the Cerakote models assuming they were actually NP3 plated.

Agreed. Sukhoi_fan is solid to deal with. I think I even bought a stock from him years ago.

The curved punch is the only way I’ve been successful. I’d gladly knock them out for you if you want to ship them. I know the proper magic incantation of cussing to get them out!

Nice job. Hide the Glock!

Agreed. All the way thru is bad. Drill to the depth of the screw length plus a small margin for the tap. Unless you have a bottoming tap. Most taps have a transition that needs to be accounted for and aren’t quite full threads to bite on.

The TTI one is a pain in the ass and hangs out like a sore thumb. You have to drill and tap your existing button which can be a chore. Especially trying to keep everything perpendicular on the drill press to make the hole straight. Their button isn’t relieved on the back side at all so it hangs away from the existing button. The only thing that keeps the pad a certain direction is the screw tension. There is no key slot like on the GG&G pad to prevent it from being a fidget spinner.

I’d probably put it up higher above the gills kind of where your thumb naturally sits on the handguard. It’s a bit thicker, so grinding off .30 inches or so wouldn’t go all the way thru.