StrangerDanger

Just be aware of the difference between the Cerakote and NP3 plated H2O models. Nothing wrong with the Cerakote models, but sometimes people try to sell them at a price point of the NP3 ones.

Just look at what FFT sells them for.

Finally got the bulk of my parts back from paint, a few minor mistakes to correct, but overall got me enough stuff to keep me busy for a few days. Finalized a H2O that has been taking forever due to Covid and Biden times. Just need to test and sight it in before it makes its way home. A second standard H2O should be finalized this week and taken for testing. The OD green M4 should get finalized soon for testing. The FDE/NP3 H2O has a few minor paint issues to correct, but I can assemble most of it in the mean time. The AR15 is absolutely beautiful. Wish it was mine! The AR10 parts pile in 6.5 Creedmoor should start taking shape too. I assembled a lot of weapon lights last night. I’ve begun having the lock ring that holds the rubber button in place Np3 plated. I thought they were plastic for the longest time. Turns out they’re aluminum.

You’d probably sell every one of them within four months at a profit. Good to see you back on. Really loving that ARGO disassembly tool you sent me. What used to be a pain in the ass is now a simple task.

If you mean one of these muzzle brake type choke assemblies like shown below, the unit weights 7.8 ounces with the choke adapter. Obviously the oem choke will weigh a small amount, maybe the 0.7 ounces.

I do them fairly frequently for forum members.

Agreed. Threadlocker isn’t really necessary on the Benelli M4’s magazine tube.

Nice! That’s one hell of a warehouse!

A couple install notes since I’ve been putting a bunch of these together lately. Don’t use thread locker on the receiver when using a carbon fiber magazine tube. If you ever need to remove the tube, you’ll need heat and the heat will break the bond between the stainless threaded end near the receiver and the carbon fiber wrapped central tube portion. Revisions have been made to the Briley follower. I had a unit made around March that did not seem to be chamfered at all. So the leading edge of the follower was like a 90 degree angle. This would easily hang up on the transition point inside the magazine tube where the stainless threaded end and the carbon fiber tube meet. This small lip was enough to cause malfunction that took me a while to isolate to the follower being the problem. The failure was the last round did not eject onto the carrier with enough authority. The round would hang up at the front of the carrier on the receiver and would not be able to lift it up to load. This kind of failure is akin to a weak spring or one that has a lot of debris inside the magazine tube. When you get your carbon fiber magazine tube, make sure it is the correct length. I stumbled across one that was about two inches too short. I didn’t notice until I went to seat the barrel.

Correct.

Briley sells the best choke wrench and brush. Briley sells a ton of Benelli mobile pattern chokes to pick from. There is no best, it’s more about what pattern you want.

Realize nearly every different brand and type of shell will pattern differently. What I do is sight the shotgun in at 70 yards with slugs. I then pattern the shotgun at much closer ranges with various buck/bird shot to see how the pattern is and how it correlates with the sights/optic. Usually the parallax is so minimal and the fact that you have multiple spreading projectiles, you can’t tell the difference. Buck and bird are going to be a single rathole 5 yards and in. As you get farther, your pattern will change based on your barrel, choke choice, ammunition and so on. So you’ll need to pattern the specific round to have a good idea of how it’ll perform at various ranges. Using FlightControl rounds will almost always perform better than shells without. At that 70 yard mark, your B27 will likely have multiple hits in the body of the target. Several will likely be off paper. If three pellets out of nine-twelve hits an assailant at 70 yards, they’re going to have a bad day. Especially with your fast firing auto loader that you’ll likely be sending multiple rounds down range at them until they hit the dirt and stop doing the curly shuffle. Be aware of the parallax when firing at extremely close ranges. Your optics/irons sit above the bore. So, if you’re at point blank muzzle contact range, your Point of Impact is going to be roughly an inch below your point of aim.

Ammunition selection will pattern differently with each barrel. Rounds with FlightControl perform very well here. I’ve been sending the M1014 barrels to Briley to have them threaded for an internal choke. It’s around 160 bucks. They do excellent work and are pretty fast. At that point, you can then add various choke options depending on your goals. Some options are titanium chokes that cut a little weight off the muzzle end and are impervious to rust. Rusting is a big issue that is commonly not seen until it’s too late. It’s the only thing I’ve seen rust on the Benelli M4. If you are going to add a choke or buy a barrel, get the Briley choke wrench, thread cleaning brush and their choke grease. I’ve never had a choke back out when using their tool. I can’t say the same for the factory wrench.

Looks great! I'm building an inverse of that one for a guy. All the metal parts are NP3 plated, and the polymer parts are being painted OD Green. Just waiting for parts to come back from paint.

4999 for the L3 Harris M914A PVS14 (Thanks Biden) 702 for the MTEK Flux vented Carbon helmet 2895 for the B. E. Meyers MAWL C1 infrared illuminator/laser 430 for the Wilcox G24 mount 228 for the Wilcox dovetail arm Needless to say, expensive to play.

Agreed with all of that.

Been waiting since the beginning of March for my PVS14 night vision monocular in white phosporous. That finally came in about two weeks ago. Ordered an MTEK vented carbon fiber helmet in April and that came in about a week ago. Bought a MAWL in April along with some of the Wilcox G24 mount for the helmet, those came in pretty much immediately. So now I've been planning out night hikes around the mountain most nights with my chocolate Labrador. We creep with zero light output and stalk some mule deer for fun. Moonless nights are really fun. The Milkyway is amazing under night vision. It's fun to see who has surveillance cameras since they stick out like a sore thumb under IR. Photos thru the monocular with my cellphone are crap compared to how it really looks in person. All that grainy looking detail is gone in person. I've done 2 hour hikes with it on and it has been quite comfortable. No neck pain issues from having the helmet on which is surprising, since hardhats at work bother me.

Outstanding. Love that Proof Research barrel. Hows it shoot?

Look up Rob Haught’s shotgun shooting techniques. A lot of guys let the recoil push them around. They let their shoulder roll back with the recoil and lose their sight picture under the recoil process. You want to present your shoulder firmly so that it doesn’t have anywhere to go during thr cycle. With a solid wide base stance, and a push/pull technique on the forend and pistol grip, your arms act like recoil absorbers. Each person is a little different, but I experiment with pulling the shotgun into your shoulder with your pistol grip hand, and push forward with the forend. You’ll need a kung-fu grip on the forend to counter your rearward pull of your main hand. You still want the shotgun to be overall pulled into your shoulder in the sweet spot pocket of your shoulder. Getting into this pocket will reduce the amount of bruising you’ll normally see. If you’re on your chest too much, you’ll definitely see more bruising. The farther out on your arm will result in the recoil leveraging your arm more. This is where having a sling properly set up on a shotgun is crucial. If you’re right handed and you have the sling attached to the left side of the buttstock, chances are the sling will bunch up between your chest and the stock and prevent you from getting the pad into the pocket correctly. Attaching to the ejection port side for a righty prevents this and helps minimize weapon roll when you go hands off. The front sling attachment for a righty should be on the left side preferably ahead of the handguards. Ie: the factory mount or something like the IWC light/sling mount solution. So imagine 70% pull into the shoulder, 30% pushed forward. This significantly reduces the muzzle climb. If you have that solid base, your sight alignment will not change, and you shouldn’t be loosing your irons or optic sight picture during recoil. You’ll be behind the optic or irons the entire time without much movement. A solid base will make your shotgun perform better too. It’ll cycle faster and tolerate more anemic loads. When firing the Benelli, I can hear how fast the action is cycling. It tells me if I’m doing my job in providing a solid base or if I’m flubbing it. When I’m doing my job, the cycle is nearly instant. When I’m doing a bad job, I can feel the bolt hit the rear, then spring forward. This is more pronounced with weaker dram loads. Adding a Limbsaver does help with perceived recoil. Realistically I’d say a standard pad will cut 25-30% or perceived recoil with no noticeable slowing of shot to shot times. No reduction in capability in cycling lower dram loads. The only thing I don’t like about them is the rubber is tacky and drags on clothing where as the oem one slides over clothing. Getting the forend stippled helps with the forward push grip. Tango Arms does a fantastic job with them. I can’t wait to show you guys the OD green/NP3 M4 I’m building with the OD green stippled forend! Np3 options improve this further by making the action cycle more efficient.

Your shotgun will lose over a pound of weight. Each shell is two ounces roughly. Plus the hunk of aluminum.

Those side saddles are miserable when slung. They really dig into your back and make the receiver teeter against you. A lot of guys have moved to the Velcro type shell holders so they can rip the carrier off when needed or slap additional carriers on. I personally keep rounds on my belt to keep the weight off the gun and if you use something like California Competition she’ll holders, they’re faster than cherry picking a round at a time and inserting them. I scoop 3 shells at a time and stuff them in. Some guys can do 4. That way you only have one hand movement from the belt to the gun rather than multiple trips back and forth to top off. I get wanting to have shells with the gun for a grab and go. My work around for that is a bandolier with the shotgun. It’ll hold 55 rounds in it and I can throw it over my shoulder if needed. Treat the cinched down option as a hands free position. When I’m out hiking, I’ll throw the rifle or shotgun behind me and hook the sling behind my hip mounted handgun to keep it from wanting to swing forward. I don’t think so on the Limbsaver. They have a special attachment system if I recall. For a field stock, I’d try to get an Airtech 10817 on it. It will take some modifications to make it fit and a Noveske adapter plate. You could do a regular Limbsaver 10403 without the adapter plate.

I found the field stock doesn’t sling as well as one with a pistol grip. The pistol grip acts as a brace to keep the shotgun from rolling. I find the sling point is too far forward too. One of the biggest benefits of the collapsible stock is a mount that rides closer to the buttpad. Be sure to set your sling length so when you cinch it down, the shotgun is held tight to your body. You won’t be able to shoulder it until you let the slack out with the adjustment tab. You want it to tighten fully against you so you can go hands free without it trying to flop around. Shoulder transitions are going to feel awkward.

It seems like it would be about the same position as the IWC mount? The Briley 13" rail would definitely move it farther forward. Noted another pain in the ass thing about the AA hanguard. If you use a magazine tube that has a +2 or the fake extension, the rail will not slide off the end of the magazine tube unless you unscrew the extension and slide them off together. The handguard gets stuck on the lip of the extension when trying to slide over it. So you're going to have to wrestle with the magazine spring or remove the spring retainer first in order to get the firearm apart for basic maintenance.

Yep, can see where the screw is kissing the ARGO system. You can make it work if you shave the thickness of the MLOK cam down which is pretty easy to do with a grit sander or various other tools. You'll end up grinding down the screw at the same time for the clearance. I'd swap back and forth between the OEM handguard and the rail to see which one you like better.

Glad it worked out for you Brookelf. My only concern would be the use of Hoppes #9 since it can leave behind residue that might weaken the thread locker's bond. Then again, it likely won't matter!