StrangerDanger

Put the Stock Retaining Pin and the Stock Retaining Nut combo into the vice carefully. Try not to mar up your work. I find an angled approach in the vice works best to avoid the raised surfaces on the Stock Retaining Pin. Apply heat to the Stock Retaining Nut and unscrew it from the Stock Retaining Pin. At this point, your Stock Retaining Pin free to be cleaned up with a wire brush to remove all of the factory thread locker.

Sling Plate (063J) Removed. I recommend that you remove the Stock Retaining Nut from the Stock Retaining Pin since you don’t want to have the nut stuck on the pin. At this point, you probably have the nut jammed on pretty tight.

Next, tip the stock forward and allow the Stock Retaining Pin (280J) and the Stock Retaining Nut (053J) to fall out the front. The Stock Retaining Nut (053J) will still be attached to the Stock Retaining Pin (280.) At this point, the Sling Plate (063J) will simply pull out either side of the stock.

More heat is needed on the Stock Retaining Piece (278J). Every 20 or 30 seconds, attempt to unscrew the Stock Retaining Nut (053J) slowly while looking through the end of the butt-stock. You want to see if the Stock Retaining Pin (280J) is unscrewing from the Stock Retaining Piece (278J). If the Stock Retaining Nut (053J) simply loosens and begins to unscrew off of the Stock Retaining Pin (280J), re-tighten it and apply more heat to the Stock Retaining Piece (278J). Repeat this process until you can see the Stock Retaining Pin (280J) is unscrewing. The Stock Retaining Piece (278J) and the eight Field Stock Retaining Springs (279J) will fall out the end of the butt stock as the Stock Retaining Pin (280J) is removed.

Next, look down the front end of the stock with a small flash light. Notice the threaded portion in the center of the stock. This is what the stock screws into the receiver extension by. Next, tighten the 13mm Stock Retaining Nut over this end of the Stock Retaining Pin (280J). You want to tighten this firmly. Note: Here is the nut tightened. The purpose for this is to use this nut to give you leverage on the Stock Retaining Pin (280J) so that you can unscrew it.

At this point, I like to move the stock to nearly a horizontal position in the vice. It will help with putting the nut in place. Insert your 13mm nut into a 13mm deep socket with a 10 inch extension.

Note: I’ve shown the orientation of the Stock Retaining Pin (280J in the bottom right corner of the image. Note: The removed 13mm Stock Retaining Nut (053J).

Note: Application of heat.

You can see here that the screws are the self-threading type. Be careful with these on the pistol grip and field stocks. It is easy to strip out the holes in the stock. Next, look down inside the bottom of the stock and note the 13mm Stock Retaining Nut (053J). I personally prefer to put the stock in a padded vice. Having it in a vice will give you more hands to work with. Naturally you do not want to crush your stock with the vice, so use your best judgment. Note: I’ve shown how the hardware is assembled in the bottom right corner to give you a visual reference to what you’re working on. You're going to need a heat gun, because those evil Italians locktited the crap out of the threaded portions of the Stock Retaining Pin (280J). You're going to want to focus your heat through the bottom end of the butt stock on the 13mm Stock Retaining Nut (053J). Apply enough heat to let the locktite give way and remove the 13mm nut. I run the heat gun for approximately thirty seconds, and try to unscrew it. You do not want to use retard strength on this. If you try to force it, you’ll see that you’re jamming the wing of the Stock Retaining Piece (278J) into the inner body of the stock. Once the Stock Retaining Nut (053J) begins to move, the battle has been won. Remove it completely from the stock. Be careful with it though, it will likely be hot.

This tutorial will focus on the removal of the Benelli M4 field and pistol grip stock’s sling plate. A big thanks goes out to Benelliwerks to advising me how to get the assembly apart a few years back. I just finally figured out how to actually do it. As you can see by the Benelli diagram above, both the field and the pistol grip stock are assembled the same way with the same components when it comes to the rear sling mount. Remove the Recoil Pad (061C) from the stock by unscrewing the two self-tapping screws (062J) that are accessed from the two small holes at the rear of the Recoil Pad (061C). Note: You’ll want to use a fixed blade Philips screw driver. Use a little oil or spit on the small opening at the bottom of the recoil pad. Press the screw driver into the hole until you feel it engage the screw bit.

It doesn't look like it. In this picture, it appears that the QD socket is external and doesn't actually enter the stock body. Main reason it isn't ambi is the way the plate slides into the stock. One side has to be a regular sling loop side for the unit to pass through the stock body.

Yes, I'm certain of it. Even Noveske specifies it is possible assuming you can get it all apart. The only debate would be which side to put the QD mount on. I'm a proponent of putting the rear attachment point on the ejection port side of the weapon (assuming you're right handed.) I find it controls the rear of the weapon better. The pistol grip is less prone to want to dig into your back when carrier slung. It reduces the amount of roll exhibited by the weapon.

Awesome pictures. I didn't understand what the spring spacers did. Makes sense now. I pulled a second one apart tonight and took some pictures for a tutorial. Probably throw it in it's own thread for longevity.

I actually got the stock apart tonight without breaking anything for a change. I'll try to describe how to do it without getting too technical. As you can see by the Benelli diagram, both the field and the pistol grip stock are assembled the same way with the same components when it comes to the rear sling mount. Step 1. Remove the Recoil Pad (061C) from the stock by unscrewing the two self threaded screws (062J) that are accessed from the two small holes at the rear of the Recoil Pad. Step 2. You're going to need a heatgun, because those evil Italians locktited the crap out of the threaded portions of the Stock Retaining Pin (280J). You're going to want to focus your heat through the bottom end of the butt stock on the 13mm Stock Retaining Nut (053J). I clamped the stock assembly in a vice so that the vice was holding onto the sling plate (063J). This helps hold it in position and reduces the amount of strain you're putting on the stock while you're attempting to unscrew the 13mm nut. Apply enough heat to let the locktite give way and remove the 13mm nut. Step 3. Take your hot potato 13mm nut that you removed, and illuminate down the front end of the stock. You need to transfer that nut onto the opposite side of the Stock Retaining Pin 280J. This is typically what the stock threads onto the receiver extension by. You're going to need a deep socket 13mm socket and several extensions to reach that far down. Tighten the 13mm nut firmly against the bottom. You don't need to hit it with retard strength, but you want it to be firm. Step 4. Use the heatgun to apply heat through the bottom end of the butt stock onto the Stock Retaining Piece (278J). Now try unscrewing the 13mm nut. The goal is for the Stock Retaining Pin (280J) to unscrew from the Stock Retaining Piece (278J). If the nut comes loose, re-tighten it and try again after applying more heat. It didn't take long for the thread locker to give up and the Stock Retaining Pin to unscrew. I would watch through the bottom of the butt stock to see if the Stock Retaining Pin (280J) was unscrewing or not. Now, if you have an incredibly stubborn one, I could see applying red locktite to the 13mm nut and leaving it sit for 24 hours before trying again. You really shouldn't have this issue though since the only thing that is really holding the threads together is the locktite. With the locktite broken down, the pieces are finger tight. Step 5. Once you've unscrewed the Stock Retaining Nut (280J) piece from the Stock Retaining Piece (278J), the entire assembly will pull out of each end. You'll have the Field Stock Retaining Spring (279J), the sling plate (063J), the Stock Retaining Pin (280J), and the Stock Retaining Piece (278J). Reassembly is would go in the reverse order. It should be easier without the locktite to contend with. Keep an eye on the orientation of the spacers as shown in the diagram above. Note: I would not use a MAPP torch to break the thread locker. There is a plastic alignment piece that aligns the assembly within the stock. Too much heat and you might melt this piece.

You asked about the hammer and the durability of the fire control components. The used OEM hammer has approximately 10,000 rounds on it. The FFT has 2000 and the Geissele has around 2000 as well;

Thanks for the information. I hear ya on being cautious. Everyone is a sad panda when they have to go get helicoils installed in their receiver to fix the stripped out threads. I have the same preference for RMR's. For my personal two, I went with the RM01's. Just let them burn away for a year or two, and swap batteries.

I debated about it for a few minutes, but figured I didn't want to wait 8 days for it to end. Plus I didn't have any personal weapons to put the tube on myself. The trigger pack from FFT is pretty nice. The trigger is coated in NP3, so it is really slick. You can really feel the difference in the trigger break. I've only heard of one person who had issues with the components. I'm not sure if he tried to return the parts for replacements or if there was something wrong with the trigger pack itself. This thread breaks down the parts and the installations process fairly well. http://forums.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/32332-Benelli-M4-Complete-Trigger-Group-Assembly-Guide?highlight=benelli+m4+trigger

I'm hearing six month wait times are the norm right now with carriercomp. I put three on order on 10/22/2015. I know Marcy (Kip's wife and business partner) is going through some rather serious medical issues right now. So their delay has increased. I'll send you a PM about an option. Most end up doing all the components for the trigger pack at the same time considering how cheap they are. But you could certainly get away with not adding it.

There is also an oversized safety from X-Rail, I see it listed on Brownells. It's a little too much for me in terms of markings and so on. It appears to have a similar shaped head as the DMV one. The disconnector won't affect the trigger pull at all since it is out of the picture by the time you are pulling the trigger again. Which brand of titanium magazine tube are you going to do? If you're going to go carriercomp, you might want to get your order in ASAP. They take forever to have made.

Items ordered from Noveske and Amazon. So we'll see what happens in a week or so.

Interesting. What kind of rounds were you using? The valuepack stuff or high dram stuff? It's possible it's causing a limp shoulder situation. I guess I'll just try buying one before getting the other two.

That's not a bad deal at that price point, I was thinking of when they were selling for 2200 - 2400 typically. I'd still replace the magazine tube with a titanium unit. The trigger upgrades will get you a better trigger pull between the FFT trigger and disconnector. The Geissele hammer is a good upgrade. It is much tougher than the OEM or FFT one in my experience. Both the OEM and FFT hammer's showed some deformation along the face of the hammer from impacting the bolt carrier repeatedly. The Geissele just shows brunishing.

I prefer the shape of the DMW button. When the safety is on, I can feel it pressing against my trigger finger slightly telling me that it is on. I then modified the safety spring weight so that it is easier to press. It's still safe and firm, but you don't have to break your firing grip in order to press it. Much of of the other aftermarket components are better than the OEM, so they're worth the upgrade alone on their own merits even if 922r didn't exist. The only one that is kind of a shrug is the FFT handguards. You want things like the titanium full length tube and it's better spring anyway. So I wouldn't pay a premium for a model when you're going to want to swap much of the parts out anyway. These other her models shouldn't be sold to the civilian public. The dealers are supposed to be selling them to people with the appropriate LEO letterheads. Once the person with the law enforcement issues model has it, they're free to sell it if they want. Basically exploiting the position.

I may give it a try. I think I can make it work. Maybe I'll throw together a tutorial.

In one of Keith's threads on another forum, he said he got rid of the Promag stock after it broke and the Limbsaver transferred over to the OEM collapsible stock. I'm kind of curious about trying a Limbsaver out on mine too.