bm4sbs

I don't know what the wiring or circuit boards look like inside that surefire switch. But if it's on a board you may end up needing a separate pressure switch for your momentary setup - that's okay though, solarforce tape switches are cheap and work well, and for under the grip you can't see it, in fact you don't even have to use the rubber that comes on the tape switch. Looking at that surefire permanent on switch, I would be concerned about how easy it is to manipulate with the tumb. Plus how it would looked chopped off and then mounted to the outside of the grip on the m4. I'd have to have it in my hand to evaluate, I suppose. I am not sure the value a permanent on switch would outweigh having that button mounted to the grip, but that's just me. I have a question about your Blam4. I got my blam4 in the mail today, the hole that secures the rail section is 17/64. The hole I need to drill is .5. I need that .5 hole to essentially use the outer diameter of the 17/64 hole, that means, I believe I am going to need access to a drill press to do this right. I can't see how I can do this without one... is that what you did?

Good idea. I had contacted a few guys that do custom flashlight mods on CPF. I haven't found anyone with the time to do a custom setup like this yet.

Every remote switch I have ever operated on has been a simple two wire rig. Simply bridge them to close the circuit. In that case, the colors won't matter. You can determine this by looking at how it connects to the light. For each wire there must be a contact. For most you will simply have the threaded part which serves as one contact, and a spring which serves as the second contact. Either way for each wire in the cable there will be a electrical contact on the flashlight side. For the slack, if you only have a few loops that can be secured easily I wouldn't necessarily cut the wire. However if it's unwieldy, I wouldn't be afraid to do so. Cut, trim, twist your wires together, tin them with solder, shrink wrap. Nothing overly involved at all. You would plan this so your trim and suture is secured and hidden under the front hand guard. Edit: I am presuming your switch already has a suitable interface to the flashlight and you are not wiring it into the flashlight yourself. That's also doable, but it's a different ball game all together.

For the excess wire, is there a reason you wouldn't cut the wire to length? This is all a very cool idea. Very inspiring. Would love to see the results. I am wondering if FFT wouldn't mill you one of his rails... One of the flashlighter modders I contacted regarding my custom setup turned down the work because he was too busy. Still looking for someone to help with the electronics.

Can't wait to see the results of the coat, I saw your Photoshop mock ups and they looked awesome.

That item may be .688 wide if the dimensions on the impact weapons page reflect real dimensions of the unit, which means a bigger hole, but this could also be the diminsion of it including the rim. Either way, the walls do look thicker than some. Good news it it also says .25 height - not sure if that helps though given the clearance issue we need some protrusion anyway.

Thanks for the input. Do you like the mount n slot because it prevents the swivel from rotating freely in the cup or for other features as well?

Yea I will only do one side. I am considering the posibilities for fastners. I am wondering - what are your thoughts on using a fastner that will thread directly into the steel insert? Also for the qd cup itself. Are you saying you want one that prevents the swivel from rotating freely in it or one that that does not prevent free rotation? Given the QD cup ideally has a certain depth to clear the reliefs on the guard - what is that certain depth and which cup, that you are aware of, has the closest dimension to that?

looking at the pics, I am not sure if you would want it fully sunk and flush given the relief points directly in front of and above the mount point... maybe even with those peaks.. thoughts?

I have an Ace QD Cup I will pull off an AK I have an measure it's dimensions, hopefully tonight. Although it is not anti-rotational. I am very interested in doing this, but want to get the shortest QD cup I can, or at least one that comes as close to flush is as reasonable. I admit I am worried about drilling the grip because of the ridiculous prices on these in the open market. When you say you step drilled it, do you mean you just used larger and larger bits one at a time until it was at your .5?

Dang son. You did it. Nice. If I do it, I will likely only do one side.

Doesn't Mesa have fixed stock for the M4?

Not following you here in terms of which location you are referring to. Are you referring to the movable part of the C-Stock? I saw another picture you had where you had a pistol grip torn apart and a switch mounted in it. Is there anywhere you know of you could drill a hold in the stationary parts of the grip/stock/receiver extension and countersink a qd cup? It would obviously need someway to attach to the materials underneath and those materials would have to be suitable, etc etc etc. Dang grips and stocks are so expensive, have to plan this out properly.

BTW - I know you said you were going with the the IWC QD flush for the BLAM4. Do you think there would be fit issues with the Noveske QD Flush Mount unit and the BLAM4? I don't have a blam4 yet to make a judgement on this. Noveske:

The nut is pictured on the IWC page and yes, it is a flat oval nut. After considering all, I agree. The CTR/MOE will be a better fit.

That's a valid concern, for sure. Most of these things are trial and error. I have bins full of parts I've tried in various builds trying to get it right and make things fit from commercial parts.

This unit may work even better for the sling web slot on in the B-M4 C-stock since you can move it to any position you want and wouldn't protrude as far as the one built for the Magpul MOE/CTR. See: www. impactweaponscomponents .com /product/rotation-limited-quick-detach-sling/

If it fits on the MOE/CTR without modifying the stock, it will on the B-M4 C-Stock, they are the same dimensions - the sling loop cut out that is. What do you think of using this IWC QD Rail Mount directly in front of the rear sight? This puts it just a tad bit higher, and a few inches forward of the ideal, but it maybe a decent option for those that don't want/have an optic right in that spot... not sure how it would hang with a single point sling, but could be interesting.

Very interested to see how that Blam4 Turns out once you have the IWC QD mounted. The IWC part you pictured there, that's an interesting idea for sure. As it was made to populate a webbing loop in a buttstock, just not the B-M4 buttstock. The IWC page does not say, how wide it is... I measured the slot width in my magpul MOE/CTR and it is 1.25 like the slot on the B-M4 c-stock so it will fit without a doubt. This one is built for a ledge as on the CTR, but it would mount for sure, may grind down, drill and tap for cosmetic purposes depending on how far it sticks out but that is an easy operation if it is even required. While I am not a fan of having my attachment point on the adjustable part of a buttstuck, we don't have many options.

which qd cup are you going to use on the blam4? BTW, quite possibly the best way to add a rear QD cup to the M4 maybe an nicely machined replacement pic rail for the top of the receiver which, like the mesa sureshell carriers, has a protrusion that goes down the side of the receiver and reaches back to place a QD cup in the perfect position.

Man this forum is quirky. I make a post, it shows, hours later I look and it's gone. I made a post with a second picture of the Laser Devices rings from the side. Gone.I had made some notes in the post that were relevant to the setup. Hardly worth my time to post here with how the posts go to review (with nobody ever actually reviewing and releasing) more often than not and even when they do display, they randomly disappear. How frustrating.

Second Picture: If you have dual Cr123 or 18650 flashlights or devices such as the Surefire 6P or similar size, the laser devices ring mounts are excellent. It pulls the light in as close as possible into the dip between the barrel and mag tube.

Going to try to post the pictures of a full length M4 Light / Laser Setup using Laser Devices mag tube ring mounts. Only advise using the single ring mounts, not the double one they sell since it prevents you from adjusting each device separately. These are great if you are using 2xCr123 or 18650 lights which are SureFire 6P, clones or similarly sized lights. For smaller lights, which are pretty uncommon in the firearms world, I chose a different mount. If I went back to 6p lights I would use these without a doubt.

Going to try to post the pictures of my full length M4 setup. http:// i. imgur. com /UghEiQN.jpg

I noticed the blam4 and your plans to use a QD in it and I am awaiting the results. I am luke warm on the rear Mesa QD as you are, I had one on my full length M4. It works, yes. Best commercial option there is that I know of. Would be happy to see a better custom option. The single switch closing two circuits would, as far as I know, require a relay to do it right. The relay required is called a Single Throw Double Pole, and essentially uses a single pole switch to activate the relay which then closes two circuits at the same time. They are small but you still need to find a place to hide it, I think you could hide it under the hand guards. For the actual switches to use, Google Surface Mount Tactile Switch. These are the most predominantly used switches in the tape style switches we see. They are wired in groups and any single switch closes the circuit. A cluster of these wired in to each side of a handguard so it can be activated with either thumb or fingers would be awesome. That sidearmor, btw, is the first I have ever seen it. I do like the tool-less design. Not sure if I would be able to use it and keep my light in as close as I have though.