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bm4sbs

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Everything posted by bm4sbs

  1. bm4sbs

    New here

    M4 is the best. Now I just want a box mag fed version, please!
  2. There is a fixed stock with PG, then collapsible (style) stock with PG. For the original PG assembly see here: http:// http://www.gunpartscorp.com /Products/1161900.htm
  3. Just the pistol grip itself? Try Numrich. I think they are under 50 bucks.
  4. Sure, and I did PM him the same minute I posted. T.S. did not indicate to me there was another deal cooking or he had a pre-emptive PM until today at 3:46 PM. I had several phone calls with him, not one time was it mentioned. Make what you will of it.
  5. Here are the facts: 1) I posted at 5:48pm (May show different time zone on your screen), saying 'I'll take it'. 2) In that same minute I PM'd Texas Skeeter providing my contact information and asking to complete the transaction. 3) The next post to the thread was almost 4 hours later. 4) I called Texas Skeeter at the number he provided the next morning (Sunday A.M.) and spoke with him, he informed me he was indisposed of and would call me back 5) I called Texas Skeeter again at the same number Monday morning (~9am) and spoke with him, he again informed me he would have to call me back at a more convenient time. 6) I received a PM from Texas Skeeter today, marked 3:46pm on my display here, informing me the barrel was sold to someone else. Prior to this message Texas Skeeter gave me no indication there was any issue with the deal, neither via PM or on any of the phone calls we had. This message claimed another PM came in one minute before mine. On some boards that type of dealing is fround upon. I don't know if it violates BenelliUSA's rules or not, not terribly important. Keep this in mind when dealing with people here. Thank You
  6. For Home Defense type setups, I normally have custom modded flashlights which are much brighter than production surefires. They obviously go through batteries faster and can get hotter, but HD situations aren't like being deployed or being in Law Enforcement. Check out overready or you can go really small - lumapower - I mod up lumapowers for direct drive. That being said, you can't go wrong with surefire - they are an industry standard. Anyway... mounts, ya. The laserdevices mag tube clamp is good, I currently use the laserlyte triple rail, because I also have a lasermax unimax laser, they work. The down side is you have to use tools to remove them (an alan wrench) from the mag tube to disassemble. I am working on a solution for this.
  7. Grip of Shame. LMAO.
  8. No S/N from barrel required for NFA paper work, you need the S/N from your M4 receiver for that. Have your FFL order the barrel. Having the barrel with a M4 and no stamp can be construed as constructive possession. Not a lawyer, but I wouldn't risk it. I have an SBS I can have a rack of barrels now, but I wouldn't risk having it without it.
  9. My factory entry's barrel is shiny. This is the way they are AFAIK.
  10. Yes, I have the Laserlyte Shotgun Tri Rail. It's okay. I just rezero each time. I had the M80, I did not like it. The mount I designed won't help with a AFG, but will do everything else way better than an M80.
  11. Ah. I see. I have something similar. I use a lasermax green. I only want it for close range, so I just re-zero quickly each time I have to take it apart. I theorized using the hanger to make a mount, I said the front hanger because I have a SBS and where I like the light. However, the rear hanger is probably more practical for most M4s. I have a mount modeled up. Won't require removal to disassemble the M4, etc. Has a QD Cup, Rail and Flashlight Ring.
  12. Yo M4DC. I had one but sold it a year ago or so. For what it is worth I did not like it. May I ask what your intent is? Do you need to mount something?
  13. I am happy with it so far. One could use this method to do an ambi mount as well - as you did. Only difference really is the threading of the retainer. You could use shorter screws - one from each side, or use one of the flat washer style nuts from IWC or magpul trimmed down and put in the QD cup opposite the screw. Each cup would sit flush against the retainer. I used a 10/32 after doing alot of detailed measurements, looking at the tap/drill charts, ID and OD of the screw threads, etc. I went with 10/32 because it did not require drilling before taping the retainer and retained the most amount of material. 5mm was the other apparent option but it would require one to drill before tap - removing more material, add opportunity for error, etc. I figured if I need the anti-rotation, I would have to have the IWC turned down anyway, so I can just have it turned to .5 and make it fit the hole I have.
  14. Not sure why they don't make US made parts, they don't need that many or need parts that are overly complicated to manufacture to solve the 922r problem. The other option being challenging the ATF in court on what defines "manufacturing". But rarely do any well off firearms companies want to poke the bear and risk having the ATF focus on them for other reasons.
  15. I went with the ACE cup for now. 1) Threaded the retainer to 10/32 2) Drilled PG to .5 on the left hand side. 3) Threaded right PG side almost through with the 10/32 tap, leaving just a little unthreaded lip. The QD cup doesn't interfere with my hand all all when there is no QD sling in it. it's not there as far as I am concerned. I have to do some runs with it with a sling to determine if a non-rotation limited will bother me. It doesn't bother me from some quick drills, but won't know for sure until I work with it. If I can't live without rotation limited I will have to have the IWC turned down to .5 in a lathe. The screw pictured is 1"x10/32. I have one that I have painted black so it won't be shiny / visible as it is in these pictures. Just letting the paint dry. [ATTACH=CONFIG]2057[/ATTACH] Now all I have to do is order a replacement PG set from Numeric for my spare parts kit so I have original parts unmodified in case they can't be found one day.
  16. I have a unimax green on a 556 and my Benelli M4. No issues with recoil. I had a Viridian X5L gen2 on a Saiga 12 shot lots of heavy slugs with it. No issues on that unit either.
  17. I use the LaserMax Unimax Green for a standalone laser. There is a rifle kit at the gouger CTD, that comes with the tape switch and some other mounting goodies for right at 300.... not cheap...
  18. Ya, you're probably right about modding for rotation limitation. It's a hack at best. Have to give this some more thought before I jump in.
  19. I will have to pull the PG off again and measure the nut retainer in there. I believe the last time I looked at it I had concerns about countersinking it to make even the ACE cup flush due to how thin it was and how little the cup would protrude anyway. If the IWC was turned down in a drill with a file my concern would be smooth edges, finish, and properly maintaining center. Amplified if it cannot be fully flush since all of that would be exposed. Hitting just that ledge on the bottom I had no such concerns with a drill, but having to reduce the entire OD changes things. I have more confidence in the ACE at this point - no machining, smoothing or refinishing required. Only downside is no rotation limitations. I might be able to solve that problem easier than the problems with the IWC with some epoxy. Fill the groove in the socket, use a small bit to mill out epoxy in spots similar to the pockets in the IWC Rotation Limited QD if you cannot live without them. I have a Magpul socket I can test this theory on.
  20. Without the feet it is .515" tall. With feet it is .615" tall. My ace cup is right at .5" tall. I agree not only would the IWC cup intrude on the chamfered shelf above, but the chamfered geometry in front of it as well, unless turned down. Going to give it some more thought. If I had to do it right now, I'd do the ace.
  21. Of course, could just drill 5/8in. Re-measures put it at about .625, cheap calipers. Still need to turn it down. I wonder what type of drill bit would be the best for the job, probably have to order one unless I use a spade bit - the only 5/8 bit I likely have.
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