RxArms

Backorders, they are risky business. I am in control of my own production and finishing, and even with this, I rarely do backorders unless I am VERY confident of a ship date. I recently put up backorders for the Ti charging handle and even gave an extra 2 weeks past what I am expecting for shipping date as I never want to be the company that goes over the ETA. Backorder mess up can make or break vendors IMO.

Is the M2 latch a simple drop in part? The link above points to a 20g latch, does that matter? Edit: found the answer (yes), here…

I tracked down a PVD (physical vapour deposition) coating service in Canada. However, the catch is there is no interior coating can be applied due to the technology (it will adhere only to the exterior). this type of tech is used on industrial tool punches and machining cutters, so a very hard, lubricated, thin and corrosion resistant coating. im willing to go down this path, but the inside will not be able to get any coating. They estimate 1.5” or so on each end ID of the tube will receive the coating. The rest will be raw steel. my thoughts on it, even if I went black oxide, the finish on the ID would most certainly be removed in short order due to the spring and plunger rubbing against the inside diameter. I would imagine it would only take 50-100 rounds to completely rub off any black oxide coating leaving bare steel exposed. so I am considering the premium PVD coating which is very low in thickness (about 3-5 micron) and can provide probably a lifetime of corrosion and wear resistance on the exterior. It is a dark grey/black colour they refer to as Anthracite. Would like input, if any, from you all on your preference. (Black oxide OD and ID vs PVD exterior raw interior).

Yes it had crossed my mind, but I’d like to keep things as realistic as I can. But ya it has crossed my mind to use shipping/handling/processing as a means to increase the price. With all this said, for this batch, I’m happy with the price I’m able to offer it at.

Oil goes a long way. I had my M4 out the other day, and it just wasn’t cycling quick, was kind of mushy. And some target loads failing to eject. Oiled the carrier and cured it all back to new.

I can’t find any NP3 providers in Canada. So unfortunately not an option. Thanks for the thought! yes I believe NP3 could work, but it’s pricey.

I’ll have to look into it. at this point, it is looking like hot black oxide, which does meet gov mil spec. But the PVD low temp coating is interesting thanks for posting. here is the bigger issue with hot application coatings. Any temp that exceeds the 400F temper for the hardened notches, it will reduce the hardness of the heat treat I did. not only am I limited in temperature I am limited in surface growth also. I’d love to do cerekote but I’m not willing to risk any tolerance problems. so after lots of exploring, i believe i’ve settled on the hot black oxide bath for now. Which is one of the only options that will keep the application temp where I need it (bath is max 290F), and also not add any surface growth.

Ill measure the LOP for the 6 positions this week.. would be way too expensive to do custom

Same wall thickness but I’ve been talking to the nitride guys and they have concerns about wall thickness ill be do a black oxide for sure, hot bath (dimensions remain the same), still working out details for nitride if I decide to. cerekote, no good, Tolerances do not allow for any error or addition.

Thanks for posting, I need to get into practicing this

I’ve done the homework, here is the pricing for $138 list: 99 USD value (under the $100 ATF limit) Minor Firearms Component M4 6 Position Recoil Tube (Customs Label “Shotgun Accessories” HST Code 9305.20.80 Found in Chapter 93) $39 USD Value for 5 pack internal retaining springs (Customs Label “Screws Nuts and Bolts” HST Code 7318.13.00 found in Chapter 73) $20 shipping and handling is extra

Got the initial prototypes today, scheduled for production in about 3 weeks… slides very nice and is tight on the notches. Complete with “drain holes” for a punch to get the spring out. some surface finishing aspects will be improved for final run (even though these look pretty good). the wall thickness is so thin in some areas I may not be able to do black nitride. At least not a full bath (usually 90 minutes). I might do a short bath of 7 minutes or so to at least get a microscopic layer of corrosion resistance, then hot black oxide after. I’ll post more pics once I get it on the gun and do some function tests.

so, I have been trying to find a video on taking this down, how does one remove the octagon tube?

I could split an order over $100 into multiple packages, and declare it as such. I’m still figuring out the best way to make sales Easier for US residents

According to ATF need to be 2 transactions

Ya that is what I had suspected. Thank you

Hey all, curious if any of you have experience using a Form 6 to import parts or accessories for your guns (parts exceeding $100) If so what was your experience like? Currently all my Parts are under $100 that I sell to USA, but in the future I may have items that exceed it, I’m trying to avoid that for now. But in general, I have a lack of experience on how difficult importing parts with a form 6 is for you all. Any info I can glean off you would be great.

I've actually made a minor change based on this feedback on the latest batch (finishing up today) to address this concern. Thanks for pointing it out, gave me something to consider the past day. Was able to get the change in just in time.

I’ve always had the break there since gen 1, I wanted it hard to remove, better hard to remove than too easy, it was a design intent I had. Yes it can be tough to get out on newer guns… wiggle it a bit while pulling back can do it

Yes to try and help to remove it… otherwise I think it would be stuck forever!

That is a nice sharp knurl, but as for the knurling being sub par On DC, i have intentionally done a similar knurl. Referred to as “volcano” in the bar bell world. And it has a purpose. My theory is that with too much grip there is more of a chance of rotating the handle out of place. This is why FFT handles rotate out all the time. That OEM style Of pin that holds the detent, is not meant for a knurled handle IMO. So for my Benelli M4 charging handle, I wanted to decrease the chance of rotating out and also less sharp on skin, thus the “volcano”.

As in too much or too little volume? I prefer the c stock look also, it is iconic Benelli M4

Correct me if I’m wrong but that is aluminum…

Pretty bad… I would send it back

If you're in Canada, there is but one choice... the Rx Arms Solutions Benelli M4 Magazine Extension Full Tube