RxArms

Hard to believe it’s been 8 months since I dove into this. Learned a lot along the way, and I truly believe the steps I’ve taken on this tube makes it the best on the market. Finally, the tubes are on the truck back to me, completed and ready to go. Hopefully next week I’ll have them in hand and start shipping out to back orders before listing them as “in stock” I’ll be testing each tube to confirm fitment on my M4s before packing them to ship out so I have a long few weeks ahead of me

How high does your rear peep need to be to cowitness? What yardage?

Curious if there would be demand for a replacement plate that has the hole in it? I could probably sell them fairly cheap too. from what I understand the issue is getting the right limbsaver model in stock?

It uses proprietary Benelli attachments as far as I am aware.

Thanks @benelliwerkes that’s some great info there on that adhesive.

Specifically talking about the middle position. I feel that even the 10mm height might even be too much if you are using an integral mount for an RMR. The 10mm works great for a low mounted picatinny red dot. The 20mm I find works great for the eotech XPS height (or red dot with QD riser). 30mm for EXPS. you of course are more than welcome to order and check it out and see if it works for you. I would welcome any feedback for sure.

I’ve never seen the KZ in person, but judging by those pictures the machining on the notches that interact with the detent, it is fairly shallow on the end edge. It wouldn’t surprise me to be able to pull that straight out of the bolt with little difficulty. OEM has more of a minor vertical edge on the end edge, which stops the user from pulling it straight out without rotating first. OEM not is not simply machined perpendicular to the pin with a simple ball nose radius end mill bit as that one seems to be. again, only judging by the pic.

It seems like the trigger group won’t set properly, but after some jiggling and trying to align it it does pop into place. At least for me.

You can use blue loctight and torque to 16 in. lb. Use brake clean or some other degreaser before using the loctight and you should be okay. you don’t want to use Red unless you feel like heating up your rail if you ever want to remove it. the receiver is aluminum, screws are steel.

I’ve been able to turn it very tight, not sure how many revolutions. At first I thought trigger group wouldn’t seat properly but in the end it was my fault. Need to properly align the trigger group and it should insert completely even on a real tight pistol grip.

Okay good to hear!

If it is my handle that you are dealing with you can email me. but like I mentioned, there is an issue with the bolt on your Gun, which would be my first guess. -Robb

You have an issue with your bolt, it is becoming more common in newer M4, I would contact Benelli, I would not mention any after market gear, just tell them their OEM handle is not saying in.

Pic would be good to confirm, but this is normal.

I prefer the EOtech donut of death, which IMO is a perfect optic for a shotgun...

I'll be putting these up for sale soon, I designed a spacer to go under the OEM Comb on the collapsible stock, can raise it in 10, 20, or 30mm intervals. Includes all bolts needed for the different heights. I prefer the EOtech Holo donut of death, so I made a product to make it usable on the C-Stock for a good cheek weld. It is rock solid in all heights, the bolts are more than adequate to resist lateral force from the face. You can check it out at https://rxarms.com/products/benelli-m4-parts-and-accessories/benelli-m4-cheek-riser/

There are heat treat issues with clones. Especially on the bolt head. They are not the same as a Benelli M4 I don’t care what people say. Benelli quality, although suffering the past couple years, is much better than the clones.

Full tube would be no different than the +2

You can call the CBSA and ask them... read this also. https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/import/iefw-iefa-eng.html protection from wildlife is a valid reason to import your gun on your trip. Just need to do all the steps outlined in the link above.

I wouldn’t touch a recoil tube not designed for the M4… I would suggest modifying the furniture instead.

You can always run your M4 without the retaining spring and use the cap as the spring retainer. It will give you a bit more capacity.

Pm sent

This is all true (about the shell drop lever), but the gun should still fire, even with a ghost load it fires. first trouble shoot would be to just load the mag tube with one in the chamber and see if it cycles normally (no ghost load no shell drop lever)

Aluminum, cast aluminum I believe.

Your tube will function good as long as it was reinstalled with correct orientation. Worst case is they never orientated it right (due to no collapsible stock to confirm it). A pic would help the oval grooves near the top (slightly right of center) of the tube engages the spring loaded pin to adjust the positioning. The groove on the side (left side if looking down the gun from the rear) engages a fixed pin that absorbs the recoil. The notch between the 2 flats is the notch that absorbs the recoil. The more oval notch engages the spring loaded pin that is strictly For positioning the tube. the oval notches should not be at 12 o’clock, more like 1 oclockish.