RxArms

Since OEM is very loose and sloppy I agree you should contact Benelli for a new complete bolt carrier.

This might have more to do with your bolt detent and spring specs than the charge handle. some newer M4 for whatever reason the detent is not traveling as far into the charge handle hole, which can cause issues. your detent and spring might need servicing, you can also try sticking a spacer with the detent spring which will increase the pressure of the detent. what model is your gun?

Thanks for posting. I have always thought that even just replacing the bolt and bolt carrier, shell catch, lifter, and trigger group would do wonders for a clone. And much cheaper than a Benelli M4. the c stock, so the tube you bought threaded right in to reciever no issues? What brand is your clone?

Good to know! Had no clue they could be a separate piece.

Make sure you also have the pistol grip that goes with it. If you don’t the buttstock is essentially worthless.

So 2pc M2 shell catch and M2 follower seems like the best path?

The polymer is actually stronger for impact resistance than the aluminum. People like like the idea of “metal”, but the current OEM polymer nylon trigger housing is strong.

Oh I know, I’m not claiming that either since that is subjective. But of course I personally think it is Shotgunners will purchase what they feel they like best, that’s what makes USA great, free choice!

Ya the titanium and grade of stainless steel I use really increases the materials cost. But I have an all steel one coming out next week for 54 bucks… same locking design. I had to do an extra heat treat on it to get the tang deformation under control (regular 4140 heat treated bar stock didn’t cut it for me). Mil spec hot black oxide finish. The titanium handle is in my opinion a work of art made with premium exotic metals and cerekote finish. It is for the M4 owner that only wants the best of the best bar none.

An option would be a wave spring washer. I have quite a few of them actually from a prior product I did. PM me if you want one, just pay shipping and it’s yours.

Pics will help

Small update. After a long 4-5 months since I initially started this project, I am happy to say, the tubes are machined and completed. Im hoping to get them off for heat treating next week, then PVD finishing thereafter, slowly but surely...

There is a lot of context missing here…

Once you break down the thread locker, you will want to remove the whole tube, clean it off, and redo it with red thread locker. Before you remove it, take a picture inside your reciever of how deep into the reciever the tube goes (how many reciever threads are exposed) this will help you re install it quicker.

I kind of like the heat shield and foregrip, but the curved buttstock is not my favourite and looks turkish cheap imo. I don't know much about this model, I'm assuming this is just a "premium" offering from benelli for the M4 civillian market while still keeping the M1014 and standard M4 11707?

this honestly is not that hard to fix with the right tools. You just need to heat up the receiver, break the red locktight, and re-do it straight. Takes less than an hour.. you just need to work up the mental balls to tackle it. @StrangerDanger can assist you if you do not want to undertake it.

My heat gun @ 650F turns red thread lock into liquid in less than 10 minutes. If you can’t get the tube to break free, You need more heat. I don’t like to use a flame personally, but the 650F heat gun setting I use makes the thread locker smoke and that’s when you know it’s ready.

I agree, the M4 is not a trap gun. It is excessively heavy for such a task. And there is no >26” barrel available, unless a Turk company wants to manufacture one. even then, ghost ring setup is not ideal, a bead sight is ideal.

Pics?

A stipled forgrip would look better, and match the buttstock, imo. Don’t care for the rail…

If the barrel is seated properly in the reciever there is no reason why this should happen. Actually, you can fire an M4 without any foregrip at all, there is no pressure on the middle ring at all when firing the gun. I can understand Benelli view here, the only possible reason why that would snap off would be because of interference from a metal foregrip. The OEM foregrip is polymer and has some give to it. I suspect this is for a reason, in case the barrel doesn’t seat properly or goes a bit loose or polymer is out of spec, the polymer will flex and won’t put any pressure on the guide ring. Unless you are referring to the front ring and not the middle ring? I think the B&T is out of spec, and put pressure on the ring. A ring that is not designed to have any pressure asserted on it. just my opinion.

Note to self, never mention after market parts if something breaks…

The supplier that does black nitride for me, they also offer a QPQ after checking with them. There are so many factors at play that have crossed my mind, and it brings me back to one of my concerns of black nitriding, which is thru nitriding of the very thin wall section on this part causing embrittlement and potentially failure. So I won’t be switching to any QPQ.. *shrug* maybe I’ve over thought the whole thing, but that is usually how I do things.

I just took a bit of a deep dive into QPQ finish. And from what I can see, briley seems to be skipping the notch heat treat, and instead relying on QPQ finish (quench polish quench), which is a type of case hardening (I am only coming to this conclusion based on the info on their website) QPQ case harden depth ranges from 0.04mm - 0.45mm. And boasts a 60-70 Rockwell hardness from what I can see online. I am deciding to go with an actual heat treat on the notches, precise and repeatable technology via computer programming, which will give a case hardened depth 2-3x that of QPQ, of 1mm-1.5mm 55-60RC. For me, I value depth of the hardened case. when we are talking about anything above 55 RC it is all very hard. PVD finish I am going with has a hardness of 3300 HV. Which I am guessing is over 100RC. I can’t find a conversion table that goes that high.. this finish is only 3 microns thick. Those are the major differences when it comes to heat treat and surface finish.

I don’t know too much about Their finish, but in my personal opinion, PVD is superior. as for the other aspects of it, not sure. All I know is that I have put extreme attention to detail in mine.. can’t speak for the others. They can’t touch my price point either, $138 USD. Got back from the machine shop today, finalizing the engraved stock positions..