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GG&G Benelli speed button


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Can anyone confirm if the GG&G Benelli speed button will fit a SBE 2? thanks!

 

I can't tell you whether it will fit or not but if you remove the carrier latch from your SBE 2 and sent it to GG&G, they will modify it for you and you will save about $40. Spoke to them myself about doing this and I have two different ones I am going to have them do.

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I can't tell you whether it will fit or not but if you remove the carrier latch from your SBE 2 and sent it to GG&G, they will modify it for you and you will save about $40. Spoke to them myself about doing this and I have two different ones I am going to have them do.

 

Thanks for the quick reply!!! I then actually emailed GG&G this afternoon asking about that possibility! ;)

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I was told that they wouldn't be doing another run until June. The guy I spoke with said to wait until mid-May and then contact them. He wanted to make sure my part wasn't just laying around and he would rather have it just beefwhore they started production. :D

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What parts are included with the GG&G speed button? Does it replace the internal benelli carrier release. Does it contain a new roll pin?

Thanks

 

Yes to all your questions. The kit replaces the internal carrier release, the spring, and the roll pin. The only things you have to add is a drop of Locktite.

 

These are a very nice addition and functional improvement.

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Yes to all your questions. The kit replaces the internal carrier release, the spring, and the roll pin. The only things you have to add is a drop of Locktite.

 

These are a very nice addition and functional improvement.

 

I finally got around to ordering a GG&G speed button. Just curious, are they difficult to install or will I have to take my gun into a gunsmith?

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I finally got around to ordering a GG&G speed button. Just curious, are they difficult to install or will I have to take my gun into a gunsmith?

 

If you can remove the trigger assembly and are comfortable using a punch to remove and install roll-pins you will be able to do it yourself. If that scares you, see a smith.

 

It is a fairly simply job.

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If you can remove the trigger assembly and are comfortable using a punch to remove and install roll-pins you will be able to do it yourself. If that scares you, see a smith.

 

It is a fairly simply job.

 

I think I'm confident enough. Worst case scenario I'll take it in if goes south, LOL! n:eek:

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  • 1 month later...
If you can remove the trigger assembly and are comfortable using a punch to remove and install roll-pins you will be able to do it yourself. If that scares you, see a smith.

 

It is a fairly simply job.

 

Are you aware of a video on the installation of the GG&G button?

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I asked them to consider making one and they replied that they thought it a good idea. That said, I've yet to see it.

 

As a new guy to this forum and the M4 it is amazing the amount of after-market|OEM items and I have only seen one video on an installation. That is 'rat worx' on the Benelli C-Stock, GREAT for them, now they just need too lower the price. :-)

 

One would think that all the after-market and OEM vendors would have a video installation for the product they are humping. Posting an installation video on youTube (Marketing 101) would certainly reach a wider market, resulting in mucho monies in their pocket. Maybe they never heard of "A Man's Reach Should Exceed His Grasp"

Edited by crofton
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The GG&G button installation is fairly easy to do assuming you have the proper tools. You can get the part from Brownells for about 90 bucks. At this same time, you should order a proper set of punches if you do not have them already.

 

You want the following tools to make your hobbiest gunsmithing jobs a breeze:

Starlet Punches

Roll Pin Holder Punches

Roll Pin Starter Punches

Alignment Pins

 

Standard punches have a flat end for driving pins. Roll pin holders have a hollow end which fits over the tip of the roll pin. This allows you to tap the pin in without having to hold the pin in alignment with the hole. Roll pin starters have a nipple on the end of the punch. This nipple indexes with the hole on the end of the roll pin. This allows you to drive the pin in that last bit for subsurface flush roll pins. It helps prevent the roll pin from deforming while tapping it in too. Brownells has all three awesome sets.

 

Alignment pins can be had at Brownells as well. They're a basic rod that you use to hold an assembly together while you tap a roll pin in place. As you tap the pin in, it will push the alignment pin out.

 

You should have a brass or nylon headed hammer. I'd recommend having a 2 ounce, 4 ounce and 8 ounce.

 

Field strip the weapon. If you have a vice, or a craddle, it will make things easier.

 

Now, before you tear the old bolt release out, look at how the current roll pin is installed. Note the depth on top and bottom. This is important because the roll pin passes through the channel that the bolt carrier reciprocates in. Now, look inside the receiver, and see where the spring is indexed behind the bolt release. As soon as you remove the roll pin, the assembly will fall out and you won't really know exactly where to put the spring.

 

Now, tap out the existing roll pin. I can't remember if I did it from the top or bottom. I imagine from the bottom with a roll pin starter punch would be easiest. Remove the assembly.

 

Install the new assembly. Seat the spring as you saw before. Insert an alignment pin through the roll pin hole. If you don't have one, a proper sized drill bit will work. This will hold the assembly together while you take the new roll pin in.

 

Install the new roll pin with the roll pin holder. Tap it in until the punch almost makes contact with the receiver. As you tap the pin in, it will push the alignment pin out the top. Switch to the roll pin starter and drive it the rest of the way in. This is where you should pay attention to how deep you've driven the pin. Install the bolt carrier and make sure that it doesn't bind.

 

Attach the oversized button pad to the new bolt release. Apply a small amount of blue locktite to the fastener.

 

Function test the weapon.

 

Or, you can do it Captain Texas style, and use a prong off a corn cob holder and beat it out with a rock.

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Or, you can do it Captain Texas style, and use a prong off a corn cob holder and beat it out with a rock.

 

 

LOL, you the man!

 

 

Thanks, great explanation. Wonder why GG&G didn't explain it and have a video?

 

 

Edit:

what about this package, will it cover all the necessary hobbyist gunsmiths jobs: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=29339/Product/DELUXE_PUNCH_BENCH_SET

Edited by crofton
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Few places seem to give quality instructions.

 

That set from Brownells is great. It has all of the starter and holder sets. I'd rather have the Starret set of punches though. They are spendy on their own though. The set with Brownells will work for most hobbyists. If you have an AR15, Brownells also sells a modified punch that is essentially cut in half for removing the bolt catch roll pin. It will fit in that block for the punches as well. These punches make putting in that roll pin an easy job. I used to swear a lot and take 5 - 10 minutes to get it in. Now, first try it's in.

 

I squirmed and grumbled when I hit the buy button on those punches a few years ago. One of the best things I've bought considering how much I work on guns now.

 

Next on my list is to buy their Master Gunsmith fixed blade screw driver set. With the nice holders, I'm looking at 300 bucks with the LEO discount. I've been thinking about getting it for myself for fathers day.

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I have found that installing carrier latch on the benelli's a few tricks are in order to prevent misery.

1. tape off the receiver to prevent punch slip marks!

2. use the proper size punch.....2 mm or 7/64" roll pin punch

3. use the toothpick trick to keep the roll pin moving thru the correct alignment of holes; an alignment punch or slave punch does not have the friction to stay in place.

4. the use of non-marring clamp will keep the cartridge latch securely in place while you are re-installing the retaining pin;

5. On re-installing if the pin does not move with each tap of the hammer......STOP! and check the alignment........it is easy to destroy the cartridge latch holes.

 

There is a 5 photo limit per post......so see the next post for some more details to understand how the pin must be properly positioned.

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A few more related comments...about pins / punches and hammers.

 

Generally, if you use a brass punch, use a brass hammer; steel punch, steel hammer etc.....otherwise the poor brass punch is beatin' up by a metal pin on one side and a steel hammer on the other end.

 

1+ for the screwdriver sets......you can never have too many ! and then you can always grind your own on a 6- 8 " wheel.

 

The Brownells fixed set and Magna Tip are nice and I use the Wiha Torque screw driver to consistently tighten the screws without stripping them, particularly the aluminum receiver of the Benelli's, the light alloy frame grips of the SigSauers and the 1911's.

 

I have found that 8.5 inch/lbs seems to work great. You can use a little less if you are applying blue level thread locker.

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