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Stevejg16

M4 Disconnector Problem?

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None of the kits I’ve seen came with a disconnector plunger, so that should be fine. Them supplying a spring with the trigger is news to me. 

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1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:

None of the kits I’ve seen came with a disconnector plunger, so that should be fine. Them supplying a spring with the trigger is news to me. 

The kit came with the trigger spring (that goes into the hole on the bottom towards the front of the trigger), the spring that goes onto the plunger for the disconnector, the hammer spring that goes into the hammer plunger and then the shell release (?) spring on the left side of the housing.  I think it says on their website, "FFT 922r compliant trigger pack and springs"

I just got home and took everything apart again.  Tried a few things. I did check to make sure there were no obstructions in the spring holes as you suggested.  All testing below is when holding trigger to the rear after trigger pull and manually resetting hammer.

1. OEM disconnector, all other FFT parts - nice audible click when releasing trigger after hammer reset. 

2. swapped out disconnector spring (that goes on plunger into top of trigger), still using all FFT components - no audible click, hammer gets hung up and sometimes takes a couple "trigger pulls" to get hammer to fall again.

3. swapped FFT disconnector and supplied springs to OEM trigger - nice audible click when releasing trigger, hammer falls with each trigger pull. Hammer release not as crisp as FFT trigger.

Thank you again for your suggestions.  As of right now, I think I'm going to use the OEM disconnector with all other FFT parts until I receive the A&S trigger housing, then try this all again.  Fingers crossed.

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Good tests. Interesting that the OEM trigger and the FFT disconnector works fine. Same as with the FFT trigger and the OEM disconnector. But pairing the FFT trigger and disconnector presents problems. 
 

Checking where the disconnector fits into the trigger, does it appear to be seating poorly or at an odd angle? Limits of movement compared to the OEM one?


I’m hoping the trigger frame removes some tolerance issue and resolves the issue. 

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3 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

Good tests. Interesting that the OEM trigger and the FFT disconnector works fine. Same as with the FFT trigger and the OEM disconnector. But pairing the FFT trigger and disconnector presents problems. 
 

Checking where the disconnector fits into the trigger, does it appear to be seating poorly or at an odd angle? Limits of movement compared to the OEM one?


I’m hoping the trigger frame removes some tolerance issue and resolves the issue. 

It is odd.  In my first post the other day, I attached a couple pictures, one was factory disconnector in FFT trigger and the other was FFT disconnector and trigger.  In the latter, the disconnector seems to be pushed further forward when spring/plunger installed (you can kind of see more of an angle where the bottom edge of the disconnector sits above the trigger (looking from the side).

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I also noticed that the trigger spring comes out at a different angle between the factory trigger and the FFT trigger.  I don't think that's what could be causing the hammer hanging up though.

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Tough to say without having them in hand and with another set to compare against. Benelli May have fit the trigger parts to that particular frame. Or it’s possible the dogs the disconnector rides against in the FFT trigger are not shaped right and it is allowing the disconnector to rock forward too far. I guess it could be the bottom of the disconnector also.
 

You’ll like the A&S frame. It has a recess for the trigger spring to seat in. It’s also a lot more open on top so cleaning the trigger components is a lot easier. 

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Just looking at the pictures, the replacement disconnector visually seems to sit further forward.

Get an Amazon set of shim gages Shim gage, and figure out how thick a shim you need to fit between the disconnector and the trigger housing to get it to work correctly.  Then, cut a thin piece of that shim and silver solder it on to the front of the disconnector.

I get it that when you buy something, you want it to work out of the box, but between being unable to identify which part is faulty, plus with no replacements being available, plus the vendor taking the attitude that you have to return all or nothing .... it looks like you need to fix this one on your own it you want it.

 

As an aside, what motivates the market for triggers and disconnectors?  To get to 922(r), I was under he impression that after the magazine tube and follower, and forestock, you only needed a hammer to get complient.  Why spend the extra and higher complexity to buy the rest of the TG?

Edited by shootingsight

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8 hours ago, shootingsight said:

Just looking at the pictures, the replacement disconnector visually seems to sit further forward.

Get an Amazon set of shim gages Shim gage, and figure out how thick a shim you need to fit between the disconnector and the trigger housing to get it to work correctly.  Then, cut a thin piece of that shim and silver solder it on to the front of the disconnector.

I get it that when you buy something, you want it to work out of the box, but between being unable to identify which part is faulty, plus with no replacements being available, plus the vendor taking the attitude that you have to return all or nothing .... it looks like you need to fix this one on your own it you want it.

 

As an aside, what motivates the market for triggers and disconnectors?  To get to 922(r), I was under he impression that after the magazine tube and follower, and forestock, you only needed a hammer to get complient.  Why spend the extra and higher complexity to buy the rest of the TG?

Appreciate the input. I don’t think I’m going to make any changes to the parts until I get the new trigger housing. I’m thinking that the hole for the disconnector spring/plunger might be slightly less deep than the oem, causing the the disconnector to be pushed just a hair forward. 

As for compliant parts, personally, I would prefer to keep the gun as stock as possible. I opted to go with the Benelli factory extended mag tube which means I would still need to replace 3 parts. The trigger kit would have done that for me in one go with the added benefit of a more crisp trigger pull/hammer reset. And FFT only sells the entire kit. With everything I’ve read about the FFT forearms not having a good fit, that’s not a part I want to go with. The only forearm that I would consider would be the Strike Industries Hayl rail but not a huge fan of the look although it does add some versatility.

I was planning on replacing the recoil tube with a 3 position tube (I have the 1014 with single position skeleton stock), which would mean I need to replace an additional “compliance part” (gotta love these wonderful gun laws).  So if this trigger kit works fine in the trigger housing I ordered, we’ll be good to go. 

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1 minute ago, shootingsight said:

The follower in the magazine tube is a cheap and easy part to replace.

I know, but I feel like if there's no added benefit (other than just being a "compliant part") and I already have enough parts, I don't feel like it's a necessity yet.  I'm going to wait and see how the new trigger housing works out with the trigger parts first.

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If you went with a titanium full length tube, you’d cut 5.5 ounces of weight off the front end. Plus you’d get the extra compliance parts. 
 

The weight reduction was worth it alone to me. 

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I had the same issue with the Polymer trigger housing and switched to the aluminum one and the FFT trigger worked fine. 

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54 minutes ago, drock said:

I had the same issue with the Polymer trigger housing and switched to the aluminum one and the FFT trigger worked fine. 

This is good to hear, hopefully all will function fine once I get the A&S trigger housing!

 

1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:

If you went with a titanium full length tube, you’d cut 5.5 ounces of weight off the front end. Plus you’d get the extra compliance parts. 
 

The weight reduction was worth it alone to me. 

Definitely considered it and maybe will in the future.  I really wanted to try to stick with as many OEM parts as possible, but lighter weight would be nice.  My only other hang up right now with FFT is their perceived "attitude" towards their customers.  Really, their website, videos, responses to their customers' concerns.  Just don't feel like that's a good way to attract and keep customers. Just my opinion, which can change.

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Todd definitely voices his opinion. Him and I have bumped heads in the past a few times. The trigger packs hold up well when they fit. One set of mine has about 10k rounds on it with no issues. 
 

There is no down side to the titanium. The color even matches better than OEM. At least carriercomps does. The machining is better too. 

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16 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:

Todd definitely voices his opinion. Him and I have bumped heads in the past a few times. The trigger packs hold up well when they fit. One set of mine has about 10k rounds on it with no issues. 
 

There is no down side to the titanium. The color even matches better than OEM. At least carriercomps does. The machining is better too. 

Will definitely look into the carrier comp titanium one and either sell or keep the Benelli full-length as a backup.

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Update:  I was starting to wonder why I hadn't received an email with an order update/shipped from A&S, a few minutes later my wife sent me a picture of a package that arrived.  So, just finished installing and function testing FFT trigger kit with A&S trigger housing and everything is working properly now!  Thanks everyone for your input/advice.  

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