paladinjme Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Even the magazine tube was held on by a different type of locktite. The new thread locker is a reddish color. I noticed the same thing while installing a CC mag tube a couple of weeks ago. No longer the green Loctite...and it did take a substantially longer time and higher temp to break the tube loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan GSR Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 heat gun didn't work well for me i used my map gas torch and it was loose in seconds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 I found the new red locktite bonded better to the aluminum than the old green stuff did. I spent half an hour with a dental pick chipping the new locktite out. On the older tubes I've done with green locktite, almost all of the locktite came out on the magazine tube or was pulverized into powder. I'll be stepping up to a bigger heat gun I guess. I don't want to mess with a torch. An IR thermometer would be a nice addition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan GSR Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 It is better to heat it up fast. Sitting with a heat gun for 20+ min will heat up the receiver. You can direct the torch right at the threaded nut for 20 seconds and the receiver stays cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benelliwerkes Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 I hear what Dan GSR is saying and understand that the torch (only an arm's reach away) is a more direct approach......however, not just on Benelli's, but other more expensive platforms, sometimes patience is a virtue in that the torch can discolor or maim a camouflage surface or an expensive blued surface, whereas a more slow "gentle" approach, albeit less efficient, is a wiser choice in many instances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benelliwerkes Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 ....... I spent half an hour with a dental pick chipping the new locktite out. I have the same experience, a brass / bronze brush is useless trying to clean residual loctite from the theads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted April 18, 2013 Author Share Posted April 18, 2013 Any suggestions on higher output heatguns? Even my Mickey Mouse Wagner brand cheapo heat gun claims it operates between 750 - 1000 degrees. Dental picks work well, just wear eye protection. The locktite breaks out at high velocity. Since having a tap that size on hand would likely be rather cost prohibitive, picking is the method of choice. Even stainless brushes are mostly useless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paladinjme Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 (edited) This is what I have...got it at Lowes...works very well. Oddly enough, I haven't found a specific temperature rating yet...just wattage. ***UPDATE*** info on Grainger website says varible temp from 120F - 1150F http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-PC1500HG-1500-Watt-Heat-Gun/dp/B004Q04X44 Edited April 18, 2013 by paladinjme Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan GSR Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 I hear what Dan GSR is saying and understand that the torch (only an arm's reach away) is a more direct approach......however, not just on Benelli's, but other more expensive platforms, sometimes patience is a virtue in that the torch can discolor or maim a camouflage surface or an expensive blued surface, whereas a more slow "gentle" approach, albeit less efficient, is a wiser choice in many instances. im sure for some applications where there are fragile parts nearby the torch is not recommended but when i used my map gas torch the receiver stayed cool since i was heating the nut for only a few seconds i think it is a much better tool for this particular job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a4tune8one Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 I used the same heat gun also used for shrinking monokote onto the wings of my drones and radio controlled aircraft. Evenly distributing the heat to the inside of the receiver and to the barrel entry point did the trick for me. Several attempts and a few eighth inch turns later and the tube was removed. The only strange thing was that there was no apparent residue left behind and cleanup was a snap. I did notice at the time the tube started to break free that there was a slight sheen of melted adhesive visible at the exposed threads coming out of the receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Just a brief update: I did another clients M1014 under my FFL today. Without a doubt, the MAPP torch is the way to go. It took me maybe 2 minutes of flame to break the threadlocker. Newer production M4's are tougher to get apart than the old ones. I failed on a newer production 11707 a few years back after two hours of using two heat guns on the extension. About the only reason to disassemble a newer production model is to fix a damaged extension or if you're doing some kind of high end coating process. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 New technique which is worth mentioning for those taking on the task themselves. When you heat the receiver to break down the threadlocker, you’ll want to let the receiver cool down before you attempt to install the new extension with Loctite. If the receiver is hot, the Loctite will cure much too quickly which can impede your work in installing the extension. I put the receiver in the deep freezer for 5-10 minutes after heating them to get around this issue quickly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D'zaster Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 On 12/8/2015 at 10:18 PM, StrangerDanger said: Just a brief update: I did another clients M1014 under my FFL today. Without a doubt, the MAPP torch is the way to go. It took me maybe 2 minutes of flame to break the threadlocker. Newer production M4's are tougher to get apart than the old ones. I failed on a newer production 11707 a few years back after two hours of using two heat guns on the extension. About the only reason to disassemble a newer production model is to fix a damaged extension or if you're doing some kind of high end coating process. This is probably a silly question but here goes....Should I disassemble the extension to ceracoate the tube? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 5 minutes ago, D'zaster said: This is probably a silly question but here goes....Should I disassemble the extension to ceracoate the tube? I’d only remove it if it is an issue of sending a firearm to whoever is doing the painting. If it’s a local to you shop, I’d leave it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D'zaster Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 OK very good. Thank you, SD! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozumasbullitt Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 On 1/8/2013 at 11:50 PM, StrangerDanger said: Side note: This is the part that gets people into trouble with their Mesa Tactical Urbino stock. Once you realize how little torque is required to remove the Stock Retention Screw from the receiver extension, it is easy to see how Locktited screws will back the Stock Retaining Screw out. The amount of torque applied is no match for the cheap snap-ring to contain. You can see in this photo how the spring has partially ejected out of the Receiver Extension. This is due to the punch being in place. It is much more manageable this way. I am stuck here. My retaining screw will not budge and I am giving it all I have, the slot ears are starting to deform from the torque. Is it possible the screw has loctite applied from the factory? This is an extension purchased from Beneliparts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 3 hours ago, Kozumasbullitt said: I am stuck here. My retaining screw will not budge and I am giving it all I have, the slot ears are starting to deform from the torque. Is it possible the screw has loctite applied from the factory? This is an extension purchased from Beneliparts. It shouldn’t have any, but it is possible someone messed with it. I would try heating them area with a heat gun to try to break down whatever thread locker may be present. What kind of screw driver are you trying to use to unscrew it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozumasbullitt Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 40 minutes ago, StrangerDanger said: It shouldn’t have any, but it is possible someone messed with it. I would try heating them area with a heat gun to try to break down whatever thread locker may be present. What kind of screw driver are you trying to use to unscrew it? I used the bit you recommend. I hit the tube with a MAP torch for 20-30 seconds and the retention screw came right out. I didn't see any loctite residue but something was keeping it stuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 Your recoil spring didn’t kink up or look funny after using the MAPP torch? They can get hot fast and damage springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozumasbullitt Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 2 hours ago, StrangerDanger said: Your recoil spring didn’t kink up or look funny after using the MAPP torch? They can get hot fast and damage springs. Looks fine but I plan to use the innards of the stock nuetered extension after the 3-position extension gets back from coating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 8 minutes ago, Kozumasbullitt said: Looks fine but I plan to use the innards of the stock nuetered extension after the 3-position extension gets back from coating. That’ll work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milspec Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 It's not advisable to use Blue Loctite on that stock retention screw correct? Just screw it in until it bottoms out and seat the ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 Correct. No Loctite is needed there. The snap ring is meant to keep the stock retaining screw from backing out. Now if you were using an Urbino, I’d probably use blue Loctite to keep the stock retaining screw from backing out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milspec Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 Does anyone have an approximate estimate on the torque value For the nut? Since I didn’t remove the nut myself I don’t have a feel for how much force it took to remove. I’m just trying to get an estimate so I can gauge by hand. I’m thinking 20ft lbs maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted October 17, 2020 Author Share Posted October 17, 2020 Never seen a torque spec given. Most of the holding strength is due to the threadlocker anyway. If you tried to just force your way thru the thread locker without heating the components, you’d likely strip the threads first. You want this nut tight, but not hanging from the wrench tight. One slip of the wrench and you may mar up your receiver or round over the nut. Since you’ll be holding the extension in place with the 19mm wrench, the 19mm is generally a lot shorter than the 27mm wrench. So if you’re over powering what you’re holding the 19mm wrench with, you’re over the limit. I’m about 200 pounds, so I lean on the 27mm wrench to set it good’n’tight. With every portion of the threads and nut glued against the receiver with Loctite 271 after an acetone bath, that thing isn’t going anywhere unless you break out the heat again. This is where it can be a real pain in the ass to get your timing of the extension perfect. Even being 1 degree off, you’ll notice with the collapsible stock. Arguably this is the hardest part of the job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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