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Benelli M4 -- Refinish Time!

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  • 8 months later...
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Glad this got bumped. It looks fantastic and I enjoyed reading about the work you did on the gun to get it feeding right. Doing the work is another matter, so thanks for the detailed posts.

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  • 2 years later...

Finally got around to building myself an H2O Extreme in NP3+. Out of a black M4 that I had beaten up pretty badly dragging around on hikes here in the Mohave. It's not completely done yet. Im waiting for a Limbsaver to be delivered and she'll be fireable.


I need to send out a new Dmw oversized safety,Ava Tactical mount and Scalarworks rail to have coated. I might send the muted finished Carriercomp tune in for coating to get the color matched better. It needs a Trijicon RMR in Nickel Boron.


This one has a Geissele hammer, FFT trigger/disconnector, TTI elevator, GG&G bolt release and meprolight night sights. I had sent an older model Scalarworks rail in, but elected not to mount it with the new units coming in soon. I'll coat the light body and tailcap while I'm at it. The head will be left black or just Cerakoted since they don't come apart easily.


This unit was stripped fully and sent in parts to Robar. I even took the Argo plugs apart and coated all of the internals. The front handguard retainers were taken out for coating along with the rear sight housing fully stripped and coated. The only parts left uncoated were the sight apertures.



Edited by StrangerDanger
I hate Photobucket
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I takes forever. This batch of parts was at Robar for almost 5 months. They're not fans of boxes with a thousand small parts in it.


Another thing i did was opened up the loading port prior to refinishing. It has a lot more room to get my grubby sausage fingers in to the loading port.

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I would have thought so too. It takes a good 6-8 hours to properly reassemble a Benelli M4. Spreading out the pins, springs and parts and reassembling them properly is no easy task. They waste a lot of time marking the parts with a serial number for warranty purposes. It must have taken them hours to etch those tiny parts.


Theyre also more more apt to losing parts when they're disassembled. I noted three lost parts in this go around. One of the lock washers under the rear sight housing, a Dave's Metal Works oversized safety and one piece of a Norgon ambidextrous magazine release.

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I don't send them to find out! Even things like the breech latch were marked.


They wrap everything in Saran Wrap which is a real pain to get open. Took about two hours to get them all out and try to sort the various parts out. Most of the parts are easy to know what are, but there are always an inch where you're wondering what the **** it is for a while. Or comparing to known parts in their bags.


Tiny pins dont get sent. They won't do them. Like the disconnector pin is rejected.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Time for something a little different. Put this one together for a guy. Built off of a factory 11791 dark earth model. Threw a whole slew of top shelf parts at it like;

OEM Collapsible Stock

Noveske/Limbsaver Buttpad

IWC MOE QD Sling Mount

FFT Trigger, painted black

FFT disconnector

FFT Wolff trigger pack spring kit

FFT OEM Reproduction handguards, black

DMW oversized safety, modified spring weight

TTI Shell Elevator, painted black

TTI stainless bolt knob, painted black

GG&G oversized bolt release

Carriercomp full length titanium dark earth magazine tube, Wolff Spring and Carriercomp Follower

Ava Tactical Mod 1 mount, painted dark earth

IWC M600 backbone light body painted dark earth

Surefire KE2-A 500 lumen output head, painted dark earth

Surefire Scout tailcap, machined to remove the shroud, then painted in dark earth (including the plastic locking ring)

Meprolight Night Sights, new front sight nut

Scalarworks top rail, painted dark earth

OEM aluminum trigger guard, painted dark earth


With this build, I swapped a lot of parts out that I have on hand that are NP3+ coated to add to the corrosion resistance, ease of cleaning, and smoothness of operation. While it's not as smooth as a full H2O Extreme build, it's pretty close. Parts that were visible from the exterior were then painted on just the visible areas. Such as the trigger, the shell release button and the shell elevator.


Some of the parts swapped out for NP3+ ones;

Trigger Pin

OEM Hammer

Hammer Spring Cap

TTI Shell Elevator

FFT Disconnector

Trigger Bushing

Safety Detent

Disconnector Plunger

Shell release button

Breech Latch Pin

Recoil Tube Plunger


Extractor Claw

Extractor Claw Pin

Firing Pin

Firing Pin Retainer

Carriercomp Magazine Follower

Three piece front handguard retainer spring


I sent the aluminum trigger guard, the rear sight housing and elevation deck, front sight shroud, the aluminum portion of the collapsible stock, IWC MOE sling mount, the Ava Tactical light mount, IWC backbone light body, Surefire tailcap, Surefire KE2-A light head, rear handguard hanger and the Scalarworks top rail in to be painted in the dark earth color. I'm not a huge fan of the dark earth color, but overall it looks pretty awesome.






Edited by StrangerDanger
Fat Fingers
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For those that may be interested in disassembling their shrouded Surefire end-cap, a couple of simple methods can be used.


1. Proper-sized angle snap-ring pliers to engage the slots in the retaining ring to unscrew it from the shroud.




2. A simple inexpensive watch case back removal tool with a variety of tips, fit the slots of the retainer ring nicely.



Edited by benelliwerkes
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