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StrangerDanger

Benelli M4 - Building a H2O

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Got a bunch done today. Broke down the collapsible stock for plating.

 

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The button spring is in the bag. Those springs are coated in grease.

 

Tore down all the other accessories that have come in. Still waiting on a few small parts. A few small OEM parts are back ordered, so that will slow some of this down.

 

I also knocked out the loading port job tonight. It's my least favorite part of doing one of these builds. No matter how many you've done, putting a file to someone else's 1800 dollar shotgun is always scary. The first step of one of these port jobs is to use painters tape to give yourself some guidelines on what you want to do. Take into account the bolt release, the profile of the trigger pack and how aggressive you want to open up the area around the magazine. I used one of my complete trigger packs to plot my cuts. My Wilton vise has been getting a lot of love this year. Mounted to the top of my Milwaukee work benches has been a huge improvement. The top of the work benches (I have 4 of them) are covered in rubber mats. I put the mat beneath the vise so that I have a nice work surface that doesn't mar anything. I put painters tape on the sides of the receiver and used padded vise jaws.

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Be sure to check your side profiles.

 

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The point of no return. Once you've broke the anodizing, there is no turning back.

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A few minutes in. The initial cut is to profile the shape. Using a large flat file, you can keep both sides uniform.

 

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Deeper, and making a lot of chips now.

 

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Continue checking your side profile to see how much material has been removed and if each side is uniform with the other. If that's the goal at least.

 

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My favorite bits with the Dremel. Having the pen attachment makes things a lot easier.

 

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This bit breaks the corners with ease and removes the tooling marks.

 

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After I cut my profile, I removed material from the inside to enlarge the mouth.

 

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After the polishing out was done, I took the flat areas down to 1000 grit to be sure tooling marks were gone. I didn't go any further than that because NP3 won't have that mirror finish anyway. What I do I wrap the end of the sand paper around a flat file. Then I work over the flat areas to be sure all the hit spots are removed. Usually you'll see deep scratches or tooling marks that are deeper. It can take a bit of effort to sand those imperfections away.

 

Once done though, it's amazing how beveled those corners become. The factory receiver is full of 90 degree angles inside there that can cut your fingers when you're loading fast.

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Nice work...definitely not for the faint of heart. I was admiring the Vickers sling that is on the H20 in your pics and figured out that the pattern is Kryptek Typhon and thought one of those would compliment my H20.

Turns out that BFG is phasing out that pattern and the padded portion of the Vickers sling is no longer available in Kryptek Typhon. Too bad about that because I think it's a very cool pattern suited well to either a black or silver gun. 

But at least I was able to purchase an unpadded version complete with the silver triglides! 

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Thanks!

I ran into that same problem when ordering a sling for this M4, they only had black kryptek for the front portion of the sling. So for this one, I bought an all black one with gray plastic triglides. I might have put a gray pull tab on it, but I can't remember. The sling is still inbound.

 

Notice we can post more than two pictures to a post finally!

 

 

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BlueForceGear sling and the handguards returned from Tango Arms for the stippling. Nice work as always. 

 

I have a painter who has color matched the NP3 finish quite well. He is going to do the lamp head and the plastic ring that holds the rubber button of the flashlight’s tailcap in place. These parts can’t be plated in NP3 since the electronics cannot be removed and that ring is plastic. 

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