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Everything posted by Birdog19

  1. Birdog19

    Benelli Plant?

    Hmmmm. Any pictures of Bridgette?!
  2. Depending on the choke wrench used, it can rub or grind the muzzle with flush chokes like what is in the first picture. Other than that, I'd go along with Truckcop.
  3. Oh crap Stranger...I was busy typing while you were already posting!! 😬 Guys, listen to what SD says!!
  4. https://forums.benelliusa.com/topic/22840-surefire-m300-vs-m600df-light-for-m4/ https://forums.benelliusa.com/topic/22905-laser-sight-for-benelli-m4/ Gents - Some recent links here for some background. The Scouts will mount directly to the IWC light mount without using the pic rail if that's the way you want to go. Or, you can order the pic rail from IWC and go that way for a more easier removal -- not exactly a QD release lever, but faster. The pic rail option also allows you to mount the light a little higher or lower (1/4"?) depending on how you mount the pic rail to the IWC light mount. The mounting holes for the pic rail are not drilled dead center so you can mount it upside down to change the position slightly. If looking for a laser/light combo, I wouldn't rule out Streamlight (TLR-2 HL R or G (laser)) as they are pretty capable and appear to be cheaper than Surefire. You'll have to use the pic rail on the IWC mount to make these work Laser/Light combos work. Think about light/laser activation options as the toggle switch on the L/L combos can be hard to keep your thumb on while firing. At least that's my experience with the TLR-2 on my Springfield 4 mm pistol. https://arisakadefense.com/ Here is a site for checking out mounting and switch options...just one of many. The links above contain other site links that will keep you searching and shopping. BAd news is much is out of stock right now.
  5. As I mentioned on my post above, I just used the velcro loop portion with adhesive on the receiver and called it good to go -- like you suggested here. I have not removed the portion from the receiver but from older posts on this topic, I doubt there would be a problem. Good news is, the velcro on the receiver hasn't shown any signs of peeling off.
  6. Has anyone tried these sights? https://dsgarms.com/iron-sights-bnl60795
  7. https://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/speedloaders-accessories/shotgun-shell-holders/detachable-side-ammo-carrier-prod31882.aspx Clacker - Brownells shows the VCS shell carrier In-Stock at $21.99.
  8. You bet!! Always fun geeking on the gun if you can't be shooting it!
  9. Gents - I had a Mesa Tactical rail/side saddle combo installed for a while but found the shells would fall out upon discharge if I had them installed upside down which is my preferred way of carrying extra rounds. It's also pretty heavy. I got rid of it and went with the very simplistic method in the below link. Vang Comp uses a plate with velcro attached that is mounted to the receiver. The shell carrier is then installed on the plate with velcro. The plate is only available for Rem and Moss shotguns, so like others, I just bought the shell carrier (from Brownells) and used adhesive backed velcro to install the loop portion on the receiver. You'll need to cut a small hole in the velcro to accommodate the trigger housing pin. I don't have as much experience running and gunning with this system as others on this forum but they seem to like as the shell retention is really good. https://www.vangcomp.com/product/vcs-detachable-side-ammunition-carrier/
  10. Clacker - Nice work! Overcoming the fear of trimming the spring is the first obstacle! I forgot to recommend using the unaltered/finished end of the spring to push he follower. It does help to keep the follower straight with equal pressure as opposed to skewing as you mentioned. It also prevents the altered end of the spring from scratching the inside of the tube when removing the spring.
  11. Clacker - Don't change your ammo, trim your spring! Here is what Nordic Components says when installing their extended mag tubes. This step is after the new tube is installed, the follower and spring are installed with the excess spring hanging out of the end of the uncapped mag tube: At this time the spring will need to be trimmed. On semi-automatic shotguns especially, the magazine spring length can be critical for proper function (duh...). We recommend that approximately 16" extends past the end of the magazine tube extension as a starting point. We do not recommend trimming shorter than 12". Trim the spring off at this point (16" starting point), and turn the open end in and down so as not to bind with the magazine cap. When I had the Nordic Comp 10 round and 12 round tubes installed this is the process I followed and it worked just fine. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the bitter end of the spring inward and downward. Tell you the truth, I'm not sure which spring I'm using now, I believe it's the OEM 7-round spring. As you can see it only extends 9" from the end of the tube...maybe it's been compressed over the years -- not that I want to start a physics discussion on the properties of spring compressibility... . Bottom line, I've never had a failure of the last round to drop onto the lifter and load, and I've done a lot of shooting with only 1 or 2 shells in the tube.
  12. http://tooltechgunsight.com/product-category/gunsights/benelli/ Shows front blade sight only. Probably have to call to ensure the ghost ring is included. Maybe SD knows for sure.
  13. Snidely - DFWSFO makes 2 great points. The first being the diff between the RMR and SRO. The second might not be as obvious. If you have a collapsible stock, the eyeball to sights look angle changes as you shorten the stock and thus the length of pull; all due to the fact that the recoil tube is angled down unlike an AR platform recoil tube that is parallel to the barrell. I only repeat this on behalf of DFWSFO because he makes a great point that shouldn't be lost on you. Others on this site use the RMR and Sync combo with collapsible stocks so you make get more opinions here. I sue that combo on my M4 but a I run with a fixed stock.
  14. I'm a little adverse to selling my OEM parts because I consider them spares for the chance I may need 'em. It is a good way to recoup some funds as you upgrade your M4, but OEM 7 round tubes seem pretty plentiful on GB and ebay. I guess it can't hurt to post it and see if you get any bites.
  15. Mikey D - I have the speed bar from Dave's Metal Works. I actually bought it from Redneck Tactical which still cracks me up today. It's a "precision" bent piece of metal that is redneck genius. Kind'a like your wife using your trolling motor to dice-up a bucket full of crawdads to make gumbo! It works.... . The biggest draaawback is it is held in place by the right forearm piece and will fall free when you begin to disassemble the gun. In other words, it's easy to lose. I tried to lose it many times but the metal clang when it fell on the floor alerted me to go looking for it. Having said that, it worked and served me very well for years before recently swapping it out for a GG&G assembly with oversized bolt release pad/button. I did that after my OEM shellstop/bolt release broke. It works.
  16. Attached excel spreadsheet reflect the weights I've compiled for accessories that I have installed, had installed and have been contemplating. The reduction column shows items I've added or swapped out on my M4. The biggest weight gain is the addition of a Scout light and the biggest savings was replacing the Mesa side saddle shell holder w/ a velcro Vang Comp system and swapping out the Nordic 7 round tube with a CC tube. Your actual weight savings may vary! Hope this helps! M4 Accessory Weights.xlsx
  17. YUP -- What he said!! Just don't get discouraged!
  18. Why are you selling it anyway?
  19. There is a lot of extremely good comments and advice here, IMO. Deciding to arm yourself at home or concealed carry away from home is really a lifestyle change. That can sound overwhelming but it shouldn't deter you from taking the first step on the journey. Other than parroting what others have already said, my best advice is for you and your wife to do it together if you can; this should be easier because it will be new to the both of you and you won't have the typical scenario of the know-it-all husband telling the little wifey what she needs and how to do it. Do some research on gun shops and training in your local area and talk to people and co-workers. One word of caution though, don't buy a gun because someone told you it is what you or your wife needs. Rent guns at a local range and get training on how to use them. There are many examples of people thinking that a particular weapon is right for them only to try a few others that they like better because of fit, weight, caliber, recoil, operating system, etc. I am a member of US Concealed Carry Association (USCCA). They provide insurance for their members that are involved in a self defense shooting but they also have a great magazine and training to help you on this journey. I would definitely heed what Evolution said regarding what is a justified shoot. USCCA discusses this aspect of self-defense often. Obviously you've done a bit of research already as you know the M4 and are on this site. Nine .32 caliber pellets hitting a target at 1200+ feet per second is very lethal and the reason my M4 sits behind my bedroom door loaded with buck. But, I also have pistols stashed around the house and garage and another on my hip. Not to insult you here, but it is a common misperception that a shotgun doesn't need to be aimed and can be used effectively when shot form the hip. A shotgun is NOT a street sweeper unless your watching a movie with Doc Holiday in it. It HAS TO BE AIMED like any other long gun as the pattern of pellets will not spread like the movies would lead you to believe. 00 buckshot will pattern around the size of a baseball at 30' and roughly 12" at 75'. These numbers can and will vary but not enough to argue about when considering the topic. Do a little You-Tube/Googling on shotgun patterns to get a better feel for it. As it sounds like budget is not a huge obstacle for you, you might consider his and her weapons whether they be shotguns, handguns or a combination of both. As a matter of reference, I don't consider myself anything of an expert on guns. I'm not a big burly and bearded guy with punisher tattoos on my arms and I don't do sweaty black and white photo shoots for Guns & Ammo magazine. I'm just a firearms enthusiast and a student of self defense. I hope you and your wife start the journey and really enjoy the ride -- it can be very fun and addicting!
  20. This email just now popped into my in-box; contains the latest inventory and "status of business" of FFT. https://mailchi.mp/d760e8590cf7/big-news-at-fft-full-length-finished-titanium-tubes-are-in-stock-limited-time-2976857?e=b12864a6d2
  21. Dam, the Sig Fly beat me to it! FFT!
  22. Birdog19

    Shell stop mods

    Over the years I've pulled it out to polish it, modify it, bend it and recently replace it after it broke. All this was in an effort to ease the mag tube loading process as this original post discusses. And, Tycoon above. While eating Tacos on Tuesday on cinco de Mayo with no Corona, I decided to read through Benelliwerk's awesome manual: Anatomy of the Benelli M4. I finally got to the pages that talks in great detail the interactions of the carrier control button, cartridge drop lever (shell drop button), cartridge latch (shell stop) and the shell carrier lift. Of course it shows the proper position of the spring on the cartridge latch. I grabbed my M4, unloaded all the 00 Buck and took a look. Sure enough I had installed the spring about half way between the latch pivot pin and the very end (or the back) where it interacts with the cartridge drop lever. I was almost able to reposition the spring without removing the latch but I surrendered to the PITA procedure and removed the latch completely to reinstall the spring. Once I got everything back in their proper position, I was able to hold the latch with my left hand and re-install the GG&G bolt release pad with my right hand. This held everything together while I got the roll pin started in the receiver and inserted a guide pin (finishing nail) through the opposing pin hole to keep things lined-up. Having a gun vise definitely helped. Moral of the storey -- don't be an idiot. Lesson of the story -- using your aftermarket bolt release pad, if you have one, during the process gives you an extra hand while getting the roll pin started.
  23. Birdog19

    Shell stop mods

    I was shooting skeet with a few friends this past weekend and I had a crazy malfunction with my M4 after 4 shots. The spring that puts tension on the shell stop lever had rotated 90 degrees and was wedged between the lever and the channel in the receiver that houses the lever. In other words, it was parallel to the shell stop instead of perpendicular. Everything was jammed up which required a removal of the lever just to remove the bolt and trigger housing. Luckily I had everything I needed to do the job at the range on a picnic table. I had the gun back up and running within a half hour. So how did the spring manage to rotate 90 degrees?! I had replaced the lever with a brand new and unmodified GG&G part a week or so ago and I believe I used the OEM spring instead of the one that came with GG&G. While I've had the lever out of the gun many times and am used to the job, the only thing I can think of is that I placed the spring in the wrong position during reassembly. I did a lot of dry loading and manual of arms after installing the new lever with no issues. Yet, after 4 rounds of birdshot it slipped 90 degrees and lodged behind the shell stop. WTFO?! Any ideas? Seems like everytime I'm posting here it is a PSA about what NOT to do instead of great advice! 😬
  24. Birdog19

    Shell stop mods

    Was playing with my gun the other day and noticed the bolt release button was loose. What?! This was the OEM release lever that I drilled and tapped for a bolt release pad. For some reason that process didn't go very well, probably the wrong tap. So bought a Redneck Tactical bolt release tab and pressed-on for several + years. You'll notice I polished the heck out of it as well. Polished it in places that didn't need to be polished! I also recently did a little bending adjustment for easier loading. Probably went something like this: Not enough, still not enough, oh too much, back the other way, a little more ahh just right. So here is what I think happened: Possibly weakened the bolt release button fitment during the drill and tap process. Polished off too way too much material on the flange of the button where it's pressed into the lever. Weakened everything by bending it back and forth a bit as noted in the video above. Luckily I had a GG&G shell stop as a spare and swapped it out. Other than a little polishing, I don't think I'm gonna mess with it! My stupidity is your gain!😁
  25. Rhodes - You mentioned that the extra shell capacity is for home defense, not necessarily for hunting. In that case, for rapid reloads you may want to reconsider the velcro option on the receiver as a faster way to pull a round and feed it up into the mag tube with the support hand without having to dismount the gun. I suppose that one could do the same with a stock mounted shell holder as well (assuming you bought the Beartooth Gun Jacket model) . Not sure. Once you get it, I'd play with it a lot and consider things like speed and economy of motion during re-loads, keeping the gun at the ready (as much as possible), eyes down range, etc. Best of luck!
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