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Everything posted by Birdog19

  1. God bless you my Brother!
  2. AM -- Eating healthy I see!
  3. Agree with SD. My experience has been that the A&S pins for the safety are pretty darned snug.
  4. Dude, you're killing me! I just spent the last 2-3 hours looking at the Genesis Gen-12!
  5. Do a search on this forum for Aimpoint T-2 and you'll get a lot of hits that discuss this topic. There are also spaces that can be used in combination to raise up your optic if desired.
  6. Though I have Vang Comp's carrier on mine, I think you'd be happy with either. Vang Comp uses a plastic plate attached with hardware to the receiver with Velcro attached (glued?) to the plate. The shell carrier then has Velcro backing sewn-on as well for attachment. There are no "plate" options for the M4, only for Mossy and Remmy. I bought a spare carrier ($20) and used 3M adhesive backed Velcro to glue it directly to the receiver. I cut a hole in the Velcro for the receiver/trigger guard pin. It looks like Esstac uses the same attachment method as I used above, only theirs is cheap
  7. It's pretty easy. Just remove the BCG and trigger assembly then unscrew the current stock from the receiver extension (buffer tube). The field stock will screw onto the receiver extension -- no tools required. The challenge will be to get the new stock perfectly lined-up against the receiver as you tighten it down so the trigger guard will drop into place easily. The butt pad can be swapped out by using a medium size Phillip's head screw driver inserted into the fine slots in the butt pad. The screws will remain captured in the pad. You might want to use a little Vaseline or spit o
  8. Yeah, I see that now. Just enough to get over the fiber and stainless mating, I guess. I remember on another post you mentioning how the follower could hang-up right at that crucial point -- the last shell in the tube I'd imagine. Briley states that the follower was designed for 3-Gun where deep and aggressive loading port reduction (see their pictures) can remove a portion of the mag tube fitment to the receiver, thus allowing a much shorter follower to cant off the axis of the mag tube as the follower is not fulling supported 360 degrees after the last shell is expended from the mag t
  9. Stranger - Is this the Briley follower you are suggesting? It's the only follower I can find on their website but it doesn't seem to have the beveled leading edge that you described. Maybe rounded a little? Either way, it seems to work for you!
  10. Plenty of posts on here about not getting full capacity in the mag tubes. While shell lengths do vary, the secret will be to cut your spring down a little and remove some coils. Spring lengths vary as well depending on whose spring you are using. There are posts about that as well and recommendations on how much to cut. A place to start would be to see how much of that last shell sticks out of the mag tube when the spring is fully compressed. If it's a 1/4" or so you can remove the spring and compress a few coils together to see what will give you that last 1/4". Then cut those coils off.
  11. Might be an exercise is measuring with a micrometer, marking it with a piece of chalk and cutting it with a chainsaw. I like Danger's methodology above but not sure just how gnat's ass it will be or how gnat's ass you'll need it to be at the ranges I'm assuming you will be using the M4. I might try his method just for giggles. Taking a quick look, my RMR/Scalarworks combo pretty much co-witnesses with the top of the front blade on my M4. That's about 1 1/8" from center bore to top of blade.
  12. Yup, that's the plug that limits your magazine capacity. I'd recommend using safety glasses and keeping your thumb over the mag tube clamp during disassembly and reassembly. Steel shot should be fine on any modern hunting/sporting shotgun. Your manual or barrel may even be labeled as such. I can't help you with the topic of mounting a rail on the Nova. Good luck
  13. Ah, got it! I grew up in Cape May NJ so I feel your pain a little bit. I'm in CA now so it's basically like being transferred from one Peoples' Democratic Republic to another!
  14. My thoughts embedded: In no way am I discouraging you from asking questions and actually it seems you've been doing some good research already. But, I would encourage you to do some topic searching as some of this ground has or is currently being plowed and you can jump-in and learn a lot. Welcome and congrats on your M4!
  15. MJ - I agree with Stranger about mounting the light -- it shouldn't be too difficult. The CL remote switch posses the biggest challenge with the OEM grips IMO. Did you get the switch as well? You might bug Unobtanium for an update and discuss the mounting solutions SD mentioned above. Regarding foregrips, I'd do a search on this sight for all 3 mentioned in my previous post (adding Truckee system as well). There has been good discussion on the pros and cons of each. As I recall, I think folks are pretty happy with the Briley solution.
  16. Well, after giving this a little thought, I think you should slow down and shoot both your Ruger PCC and M4 with the Big Dot and see what you like about both before investing. RMR on a Scalarworks mount puts the RMR red dot right on top of the OEM front sight post for a great back-up. With my weapon light mounted on the right side of my M4, I get just enough light on the front post for sufficient illumination. Of course I still have to work the ghost ring using my illuminated target to back light the ghost ring. With a properly sighted red dot, all that sight alignment stuff is re
  17. MJ - I did a search for REIN and see you've been chatting this up for a while. If you purchased the pic rail piece with the IWC, then I'd think installation would be easy on either side of the IWC mount. Remember, the screw holes in the pic rail from IWC are not along the centerline of the rail, so it can be installed "upside down" if you will, to slightly raise or lower the rail and thus your light. If you purchased the remote light switch as well, the only thing I can think of is to get another pic rail from IWC and mount it on the opposite side of the light for the remote switch. T
  18. RIGHT?! I'm a hero on the internet, just ask me! OBTW, what was the distance to the target?
  19. Those 2 fliers at 7 o'clock are embarrassing!!! WTFO? 🧐
  20. I'll be curious to see how you like the combo of a red dot sight and the orange dot on your XS front post. The first time I shot an orange clay launched off a steel popper I was distracted for a nanosecond between the red dot and orange clay. There were 3 such targets back-to-back during a local 3-Gun and I missed all 3 clays. I found it distracting in the fast target acq. required for finding the clay and nailing it. Needless to say, I as pretty disappointed in myself!! I can't believe I just admitted that to the group -- It must be Sunday and I just went to confessional! Agree w
  21. This post by Resident Expert and all-around good guy, Stranger Danger should get you started.
  22. It's not too tough a job but it does appear daunting at first. It will definitely boost your confidence once completed. Stranger's guiding light is as always, awesome. I think the most difficult part of all is getting all the parts lined-up to insert the trigger pin bushing. The trigger pin bushing retaining pin spring (or trigger guard pin spring) can be a pain as well. You'll notice that the trigger pin bushing has slots cut into it, one on each side. I've found that if you line up the jaws of the pin spring so that they feed into those slots it is much easier. Just line everythi
  23. Fett - Welcome back! I'm running the CC mag tube and that's what people seem to lean toward. The Briley CF is pretty new but it is being used a bit too. I haven't heard anything negative about either tubes on this forum but others may disagree. Seems like aesthetics (color) and weight are the biggest drivers of choice. I have not seen anything on poor fit or workmanship for any option mag tube, but over to others for their experience. Along those lines, here's what I have for 7-round mag tube weights: Nordic: 10.5 oz FFT: 5.6 oz CC: 5.3 oz Brile
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