Birdog19

https://botach.com/benelli-m1014-limited-edition-12-gauge-3-18-5-black-5-1-semi-auto-shotgun/

I've been off this forum for early a year but I'm enjoying catching back up. Not sure what the M4's are going for these days but the below models from Botach are $ 1,699 and $1,750 respectfully. https://botach.com/benelli-m4-18-5-12ga-shotgun-5-1-w-pistol-grip/ https://botach.com/benelli-m1014-limited-edition-12-gauge-3-18-5-black-5-1-semi-auto-shotgun/ ATB, Birdog

You're right Bambi! What an idiot I am!!

Excellent!

Rubicon - Check out the link above. I think there is an SD tutorial in there as well.

Not posting this to question anyone's opinions or $anity regarding a folding stock -- just wondering about its utility and if that's the reason for the overwhelming demand. Is it because that's what the M4 is supposed to come with -- it makes the gun complete? Weight savings? Cool factor or do some shooters find adjusting the length-of-pull fits them better? Living in Rep of Cali I can't use a folding stock so I have not experience with it. My 11707 did come equiped with a 3 position receiver tube, so if we ever re-join the Union and the prices come down I may get one.

I used to flip the gun over and hold it with my left hand and load with my right. After 10-11 rounds fired the barrel was hot, but not too hot to hold while recharging the mag tube with another 10 rounds. I've learned better. Now I keep my right hand grip on the stock and just rotate the gun so the loading port is upright (or nearly so). The butt of the stock stays wedged in my armpit for a stable grip. I then load with my left hand - similar to replacing a mag in a pistol or AR. When loading is complete, my right hand is already in its proper position and I just rotate the gun upright and against my shoulder while re-affirming the proper left handed grip on the fore end.

God bless you my Brother!

AM -- Eating healthy I see!

Agree with SD. My experience has been that the A&S pins for the safety are pretty darned snug.

Dude, you're killing me! I just spent the last 2-3 hours looking at the Genesis Gen-12!

Do a search on this forum for Aimpoint T-2 and you'll get a lot of hits that discuss this topic. There are also spaces that can be used in combination to raise up your optic if desired.

Though I have Vang Comp's carrier on mine, I think you'd be happy with either. Vang Comp uses a plastic plate attached with hardware to the receiver with Velcro attached (glued?) to the plate. The shell carrier then has Velcro backing sewn-on as well for attachment. There are no "plate" options for the M4, only for Mossy and Remmy. I bought a spare carrier ($20) and used 3M adhesive backed Velcro to glue it directly to the receiver. I cut a hole in the Velcro for the receiver/trigger guard pin. It looks like Esstac uses the same attachment method as I used above, only theirs is cheaper and they will sell you the Verco as well!

It's pretty easy. Just remove the BCG and trigger assembly then unscrew the current stock from the receiver extension (buffer tube). The field stock will screw onto the receiver extension -- no tools required. The challenge will be to get the new stock perfectly lined-up against the receiver as you tighten it down so the trigger guard will drop into place easily. The butt pad can be swapped out by using a medium size Phillip's head screw driver inserted into the fine slots in the butt pad. The screws will remain captured in the pad. You might want to use a little Vaseline or spit on the screw driver head to make insertion easier. That last line is good advice for many applications!

Yeah, I see that now. Just enough to get over the fiber and stainless mating, I guess. I remember on another post you mentioning how the follower could hang-up right at that crucial point -- the last shell in the tube I'd imagine. Briley states that the follower was designed for 3-Gun where deep and aggressive loading port reduction (see their pictures) can remove a portion of the mag tube fitment to the receiver, thus allowing a much shorter follower to cant off the axis of the mag tube as the follower is not fulling supported 360 degrees after the last shell is expended from the mag tube. A longer follower keeps things aligned. That made sense to me as it seems like a short (OEM) follower might jam a little bit if its canted in the mag tube during speed re-loads. Then again, call me Rosanna, Rosanna, Danna!

Stranger - Is this the Briley follower you are suggesting? It's the only follower I can find on their website but it doesn't seem to have the beveled leading edge that you described. Maybe rounded a little? Either way, it seems to work for you!

Plenty of posts on here about not getting full capacity in the mag tubes. While shell lengths do vary, the secret will be to cut your spring down a little and remove some coils. Spring lengths vary as well depending on whose spring you are using. There are posts about that as well and recommendations on how much to cut. A place to start would be to see how much of that last shell sticks out of the mag tube when the spring is fully compressed. If it's a 1/4" or so you can remove the spring and compress a few coils together to see what will give you that last 1/4". Then cut those coils off. My experience has been that removing a few inches of spring either way was not that critical. Obviously go slow until you remove what you need. Having enough spring tension to soundly eject that last shell onto the shell carrier is critical. When you have trimmed your spring to the proper length, turn the bitter end in and downward with a pair of needle nosed pliers. When reinstalling the spring I like to make sure the factory finished end of the spring goes toward the follower and the ugly end that you just cut goes against the mag tube spring retainer clip. Where safety glasses as shit can go flying in your face at the speed of heat with no warning!!!!!

Might be an exercise is measuring with a micrometer, marking it with a piece of chalk and cutting it with a chainsaw. I like Danger's methodology above but not sure just how gnat's ass it will be or how gnat's ass you'll need it to be at the ranges I'm assuming you will be using the M4. I might try his method just for giggles. Taking a quick look, my RMR/Scalarworks combo pretty much co-witnesses with the top of the front blade on my M4. That's about 1 1/8" from center bore to top of blade.

Yup, that's the plug that limits your magazine capacity. I'd recommend using safety glasses and keeping your thumb over the mag tube clamp during disassembly and reassembly. Steel shot should be fine on any modern hunting/sporting shotgun. Your manual or barrel may even be labeled as such. I can't help you with the topic of mounting a rail on the Nova. Good luck

Ah, got it! I grew up in Cape May NJ so I feel your pain a little bit. I'm in CA now so it's basically like being transferred from one Peoples' Democratic Republic to another!

My thoughts embedded: In no way am I discouraging you from asking questions and actually it seems you've been doing some good research already. But, I would encourage you to do some topic searching as some of this ground has or is currently being plowed and you can jump-in and learn a lot. Welcome and congrats on your M4!

A good man with a solid plan!

Bummer. Good luck.

MJ - I agree with Stranger about mounting the light -- it shouldn't be too difficult. The CL remote switch posses the biggest challenge with the OEM grips IMO. Did you get the switch as well? You might bug Unobtanium for an update and discuss the mounting solutions SD mentioned above. Regarding foregrips, I'd do a search on this sight for all 3 mentioned in my previous post (adding Truckee system as well). There has been good discussion on the pros and cons of each. As I recall, I think folks are pretty happy with the Briley solution.

Well, after giving this a little thought, I think you should slow down and shoot both your Ruger PCC and M4 with the Big Dot and see what you like about both before investing. RMR on a Scalarworks mount puts the RMR red dot right on top of the OEM front sight post for a great back-up. With my weapon light mounted on the right side of my M4, I get just enough light on the front post for sufficient illumination. Of course I still have to work the ghost ring using my illuminated target to back light the ghost ring. With a properly sighted red dot, all that sight alignment stuff is reduced to: "Put the thing on the thing and pull the thing!" Having said that, it sounds like your Big Dot post is higher than the OEM, just maybe a properly sighted RMR dot would super-impose over the front sight, but you will just have a bright dot on a large front sight. If they don't co-align, and you crank on the elevation of your RMR to get them co-aligned, your RMR will not necessarily be properly sighted in for POA and POI. You will still need to align your Big Dot and red dot combo with the ghost ring sights to get a good hit which kind'a negates the reason for a red dot. I think I'm right about this, I haven't had any smart juice yet (rum) as it's still a tad early on the wrong coast!