Best way to remove extractor from bolt?

[Doge]

@benelliwerkes and @StrangerDanger what are your tips?

Having a lil' difficulty getting one out. Last resort for me would be to drill it out on the mill.

Edited August 11, 2021 by Doge

[StrangerDanger]

The curved punch is the only way I’ve been successful. I’d gladly knock them out for you if you want to ship them. 
 

I know the proper magic incantation of cussing to get them out!

Edited August 11, 2021 by StrangerDanger

[benelliwerkes]

This is how I remove / install Benelli  "Montefeltro type" rotating twin lug locking bolt head extractors.

 

Edited August 24, 2021 by benelliwerkes

[Doge]

Thank you for the excellent, detailed information.

Did you use a small nail to knock out the roll pin?

I managed to remove the roll pin at the suffering of my poor punch

 

[benelliwerkes]

Pushed the roll pin out by hand as noted about, first step. Never used a nail as a punch.

Notice that small diameter punches will deform like virtually every time use short shaft punches to get them started, note the short shaft roll pin punch used.

You can get blank screwdriver handles and bore them to fit the punches when its not necessary or impractical to be beating on the punch with a hammer.

I make a habit of using the correct punch application to avoid marring the gun art.

Some examples of specific punches shown above.

Edited August 25, 2021 by benelliwerkes

[Doge]

huh, I didn't know starter punches were a thing! Thanks Benelliwerkes

Here is the link in case anybody in the future searches for it:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/starter-punch-set-prod549.aspx

[StrangerDanger]

Never seen those before!

[benelliwerkes]

Early model S&W M&P pistols used small diameter solid pins to retain the extractor; like most mfg. a hydraulic arbor press with a few thousand psi runs thepin in perfectly within a matter of seconds, removing it was another matter. S&W eventually switched to a roll pin which is much easier to exchange; for the same reason  SigSauer did similar pin conversions for their firing pin position retaining pin.

For tight solid pins in particular, after applying some Kano Kroil for a few minutes, use the tapered starter punch (Wiha / Lyman / Proto make good ones) just to make the pin move a few millimeters, then switch to short shaft parallel punch then the longer parallel punch as needed; this sequence will save the thin punches from destruction. The silver lining is that you can take your bent pin, shorten it now and you will have the first member of your short punch set.

The Rennsteig parallel punch set is clever in that an outer sleeve that supports the punch pin slides along its length, so you can begin with a "short" shaft punch exposed / supported so as you advance the length of the pin into the pin hole being removed, the pin hole walls themselves now continue to support the shaft of the punch.

 

I made a set of brass roll pin punch holders.

[Milspec]

Great advice and info from Benelliwerkes. 

I used a 5/64 punch to move the pin out slightly for the first stage.  Then I realized I didn't have a small enough punch for the next step.  I scratched my head and remembered I have an old Dan Wesson firing pin that I use for various things.  I believe it's 9mm/38 super dimension.  This was perfect.  I was then able to ease the roll pin out enough to completely remove it by hand.  - Done easy peasy!

 

Edited March 11, 2022 by Milspec

[Unobtanium]

Correct diameter cheap punch. Full send. She gone bend. Buy a few.