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You are in for a long search. How I finally bought mine, was to set up a search term on Gunbroker.com where it alerts you if an item matching your search shows up. For mine, over the course of probably 8 years, I bought a 26", and the rare 24" to go along with my factory 28". I had already bought the same in SBE II configuration in the meantime so I have both now, but I don't want to switch back and forth between the high and low ribs so most are still in the box in the safe. I also bought a slug barrel and the required modified forearm (which is also required for the SBEII field barrels). Good luck on your endeavor.

The thread difference is all the older HK, and early Benelli USA models have the thread at the very end of the barrel. Those are called Mobil chokes and they are maybe 1" or a little more. All new ones for quite a while, I am guessing around 2002 maybe, have Crio chokes. Those are longer maybe around 1.5" and the threads are maybe 3/4" down inside the barrel. They are about the same length as many extended chokes in the Mobil style, but it all fits inside the barrel. You can do a search on the threads here and find who does the threading, cost, limitations, etc. But, for a quick recap I'll tell you that some barrels are either too thin, or they have to run another choke type that is thinner such as Rem-Choke's. Briley is who is most often recommended if I remember right for the cutting and threading. They'll keep everything legal too and make sure you don't go too short where you'll need to register it as a Short Barrelled Shotgun (SBS). If that is actually what you are after, I am not positive they do that, but they might.

Steve, I have not seen a stiff safety on a 828, new gun for a very lomg time. Benelli has a 10 year warranty on all firearms, they will refit 828U safety art no charge. I do have intructions on how to complete this as well. Most of your comments are way over the top and show the lack of understanding on your part. Perhaps the one of the benefits of the forum is to educate. Functionality of the safety as well as the the Top Lever is quite often misunderstood on the 828. Both were designed to slide with the design lines of the gun. Quite often shooters are applying downward pressure on both the safety and the top lever. When this occurs functionality of both components becomes resistant.

I have several Benelli's and I am looking at having a few barrels threaded for chokes (Also Benelli's... M4 and a cut down Nova). I have a Salvo 12 on the way and I'd like to keep them all threaded the same for simplicities sake. I don't want to add a new set of chokes and have dozens of Benelli and Beretta Chokes laying around but I do want to thread a few barrels. The chopped Nova might be too thin to thread but the M4 has some serious meet on the tube. I am having a tough time tracking down a service provider for threading to the Benelli pattern. Some searching also revealed there are 2 separate Benelli thread patterns? Can those more informed that me help me understand the difference? I have a M1 and Nova's that are already threaded... I'd like to cut my M4 to match. It appears that Benelli offers "Barrel Cutting/Choke Installation" services but I am unsure if that is threading the barrels for their chokes? Thanks in advance-

Mike B, Sorry that is going on. It is completely ridiculous. Benelli appears clueless and incompetent with this 828U which has been out for a long time now. I just saw an add for a new model and I’m not sure from the photo but it looks like the safety may have been redesigned because it looks slightly elevated in the back and not flush with the receiver. In my opinion they should replace this safety free of charge with a better designed one to anyone who complains about it. I hope they fix it to your satisfaction soon. Steve

Thanks @SJELK. After reading your response, I sent the 828U to Benelli, via Scheels in Johnstown, CO. It's been two months and I haven't heard a thing. Scheels said it could take a few months, so I'll be patient, to a point. ; ) Also, I fully agree and echo everything in your original post. Glad you got your gun fixed. This is a widespread manufacturing defect, specific to the Benelli 828 series, and it appears frequently in gunsmithing forums worldwide. This should not be happening in a gun of this class and price point. Cheers. To all those who posted that their 828U safety switch works just fine, I say "Good for you". Mike B

I am not pressing the safety and the level at the same time.

Looking for a low rib 26" barrel for an HK SBE

BLASPHEMY!!!!

Or the contact with the fore-end accelerated the finish wear (that is not seen until the gun is disassembled) "It is on the area that is covered by the fore-end when assembled"

Comes with 870 stock and adapter new style buffer.with stick on grip and handguad with same tape.And a rmr crom. Rob Haught mod only thing is missing a screw.A$6 from airdus. 325

HD= sling + Light. A sling is necessary if you need your hands, or if there is a fight/grab over the gun. Light is a MUST to ID what you’re about to shoot with OO Buck shot. A red dot could be helpful but I’d put that in the nice to have column vs the have to have.

It looks like it’s over the barrel roll marks? At least it looks like symbols underneath. I would bet the wrap/dip wouldn’t adhere to a roll stamped surface vs a smooth surface. I’m just guessing here.

No it is not normal if it came from the factory that way. But, if they had, it should have been addressed at that time. With normal use I've found these camo wraps will wear through the image with extended use, and any impacts will tear chips out like it shows in yours. I've had some bumps and rubs that seemed so insignificant do this. I know the same impact wouldn't have looked as visible on regular blued or matte finishes which penetrate the metal. As a result, long ago, I went back to standard metal finishes on all my hunting arms that will see any extended service. This "weakness" is fairly industry wide. If they are painted on instead of a wrap, they last a little better, but not as well as blued, NP3, etc where it penetrates the metal. It's maybe not the best analogy, but I liken it to the idea of bed liners can take a ton of abuse. The same abuse against the original paint would be very evident. Like Remarkable said, it's worth a call to Benelli. Be nice and politely plead your case. You never know.

The pic you posted says panzer and clone”… I do not think benelli is selling wood stocks for the m4. It’s a combat shotgun. you can buy the wood from several vendors

I think a wave washer is fine. I don't think anyone who is concerned about tool-less take down is going to complain about one extra part, considering it still requires no tools to take down.

Another good season. I don’t usually write to gun companies, i own a grizzly , it’s a tank , it takes just about every type of shells and weather conditions, now my son has started hunting and we had a father and son discussion about shotguns. I’ve been through a lots of guns in my life time, i’m now 69. I told him not to waste the money on other model’s and then starting to trade to get a good firearm . So now he has a super nova and a super black eagle very very happy kid, then a friend of mine was also looking for a good quality shotgun , so i stress him to get the black eagle so eventually i got a call and that he was soooo happy with it. Keep on the great work. Now I’ll be looking for one of your rifles,new style new technology. You’ve change the gun industry. thank you Denis. Ps you can pass this to your employees for the hight quality that comes out the shop

So Benelli is now selling factory wood for the M4???

Want!!

I just received new stocks from Benelli for my R1. I can’t seem to get that metal “bolt” out to put on new stock.Any advice?

Just installed a Briley 8" handguard, and wanted to give some thoughts. I have ran the OEM handguards, and Midwest Industries rail. Initial impressions, the thing is very very sturdy. Weight is not really a concern, when I received the box in the mail the box basically felt empty prior to opening. Installation is super easy, as is removal. It just slots right in like the OEM handguards, but in a single piece. I mounted an Arisaka 600 series with a Malkhoff head and Surefire DS00 with a TRex Arms / Arisaka extended scout mount, on the farthest Mlok slot. I put a modlite modbutton just below it, will need to play around with mounting positions before I decide on a final spot and do some cable management. Impressions once installed... the thing is girthy, and slick. The midwest industries rail was far far easier to get a c-clamp on, just like the OEM handguards. Of course, that is going to result in high heat and not being able to do that very long without gloves. The Briley is difficult to get a c-clamp on, and I'm sticking to a more traditional grip with it. It's slick, and really needs some added traction on it. I tried an Emissary handbrake, but that's not really conducive to making it more grippy with the traditional grip as opposed to the C clamp. I think I'll try out some 2 slot Irregular Defense MLok panels, one on each side of my support hand, and one on the underside. They're polymer and the most aggressive rail covers I've tried. Overall, very happy in the absence of the IWC scout mount. The light placement with the Malkhoff head gives a ton of spill and throw. There is some degree of barrel shadow of course, but it's dumping so much light, it's a non-issue. I would say in use, I like the Midwest rail more. It can get the light way further out (for less weight than even the 8" Briley rail, let alone the full size one), and feels way more ergonomic to grip. That being said, I don't like the set screws, and I had trouble taking it off the barrel to clean the ARGO system without taking my MLok attachments off. As of now, (without the rail covers, will update with those later) I can easily remove the handguard with the light and pressure pad from the barrel just by lifting it off. So from my experience, pros of the Briley are tool-less takedown, very solid. Cons, price, poor ergonomics, very slippery and hard to get a solid grip. Midwest, pros - cheaper, lighter, MUCH more ergonomic and grip forgiving due to the ability to C-clamp. Cons, a pain to take down.

Not me, I don’t buff my shotguns after every ranger trip. I run a bore snake and spray some lube every now and again. I have a nova that has just over 10k rounds on it and I think I’ve cleaned it 2-3 times. Benelli’s just run. 25k rounds no cleaning is what I think the M4 did to get the military contract. YMMV

So @bambihunter these are normal blemishes then ?

I've found the camo wrap on these blemish WAY easier than the actual metal finish. It makes sense though since it is effectively a wrap. At least on the old SBE's, they are standard finished parts underneath so the wrap can be removed and either run bare metal with the matte black look, or have it hydro-dipped to reapply a camo (or other) pattern.

it is 1 year old