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There is a lot of misinformation concerning how to remove these recoil tubes from your weapon. Benelli will tell you that you will destroy the shotgun if you attempt to remove the extension. This is only true if you do not heat the threads sufficiently to break the thread locker. Once you've developed the testicular fortitude to complete this project, you must do the following: Disassemble the weapon. You must remove the internals from the recoil tube assembly. Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring at the bottom of the recoil tube. Unscrew the spring retainer. You should put a punch through one of the drainage holes to keep the spring from ejecting when you remove the plug. Contain the spring as the punch is removed. Tip the receiver back to allow the plunger to slide out of the recoil tube. After that, you should spray the recoil tube out with solvent to remove oil and debris that might catch fire during the next process. To remove the tube, you must heat the recoil tube extension's locknut with a heatgun for 30 minutes or more. A propane torch would also work, and be faster. However, a heatgun will be slower and safer. Benelli coats the threads with a green thread locker compound. Make sure you put the receiver in a vice. I found the best place to clamp to was below the rear sight. You do not want to crush the receiver with the vice. Apply just enough tension to hold the receiver in place. Make sure you apply some padding between your receiver and the vice. The nut is common thread. The nut is a 1 1/16" or metric equivalent wrench. You do not want to apply a lot of torque to the receiver. You want the heat to break the locktite's hold. I never used more than one arm to apply torque with. Once it is heated sufficiently, the nut will begin to turn slowly. Continue heating until the nut is completely removed and slides off the end of the recoil tube. Now time for the hard part. Continue to apply heat to the recoil tube threaded area. Use an open ended 3/4" box wrench on the flat spots of the recoil tube to apply torque. These are also common thread. This may take another 30 minutes with a heatgun to break the locktite compounds hold. Note the depth that the recoil tube is screwed into the receiver. Also be aware that this item must be timed to index the stock in an appropriate direction. Once the recoil tube unscrews, clean up the threads with acetone or another solvent. A wirebrush will help. To reassemble, screw the new recoil tube in so that the threads are flush with the inside of the receiver. Thread the locknut over the recoil tube assembly and screw it flush with the receiver. Add the collapsible stock to the tail to act as an index to help time the recoil tube assembly. Once you've indexed it to where you want it, tighten the locknut. What I recommend is installing the collapsible stock at this time, and collapsing it fully. Use the cheek weld piece of the collapsible stock as an index point. Point the cheek weld so it points to the middle of the rear iron sight housing. Once you have it where you want, tighten the locknut. I highly recommend reapplying locktite to the recoil tube and the locknut. Even if you simply use the blue type. The recoil tube extension is pretty easy to screw in. You can do it by hand. Reinstall the internals of the recoil tube. Drop the plunger in, followed by the spring. Press the spring in and retain it with a punch or screwdriver. Screw in the spring plug. Reinstall the snap ring. Install your stock. Hopefully this tutorial is clear. The times needed to run the heatgun are accurate. Prop the weapon up so you can leave the heat on it and just sit by and watch.

I know this is an older thread, but I have to praise you on your instructions. I couldn't find anything, anywhere, on changing the recoil tube assembly. The tip on the taking pictures to ensure proper alignment of the new assembly was spot on, as well. Thank you so much StangerDanger!

-- No one likes--

If you put that made in Italy Benelli magazine extension on your M4 you will need at least three 'Made in the USA' parts added otherwise you'll be in violation of 922(r) (if you have a C stock instead of a fixed stock you will need a total of four 'Made in the USA' parts) - i.e. unless you're not the least bit concerned about 922(r) compliance. FYI, that Benelli magazine extension is steel, just like the OEM magazine tube and Dave's Metal Works full length magazine tube so you'd be spending an additional $50 just to have the Benelli name (which is nowhere to be seen on the extension itself) AND it will appear pieced together rather than the way a M4 should look. Why pay an additional $50 for that?? A M4 looks so much better with a full length mag tube instead of a pieced together mag tube.

--They're-- (Ill use it in a sentence) "I tried asking the guys on Benelli Forums for help, but they're all telling me that I'm abrasive, rude, and have no idea how to conduct myself on a public forum."

My my....such strong emotion. I think that you should check your facts, the military model M4 which is known as the M1014 does not have an insert choke in the barrels.

WRONG!! It is an INSERT CHOKE,.....at least it is on all CIVILIAN M4.......ive never seen a military M4 up close.

Im sorry you dont listen or read full statements, but i said: ".ive never seen a military M4 up close. " Further i said: It is an INSERT CHOKE,.....at least it is on all CIVILIAN M4.......... I own 3 BENELLI M4.... and seen 100s of civilian M4......they ALL HAVE CHOKE inserts. FURTHER STILL, Benellis instructions in the link above are ALL BENELLIS, not just M4 or for Marines M4 /1014 etc etc...... suggest you READ next time before commenting

Key issue you arent seeing: Benellis instructions in the link above are for ALL BENELLIS, not just M4 or for Marines M4 /1014 etc etc......

HENCE the title of this post, which is LACK OF INFO FROM BENELLI

not helpful really, nobody on that thread has a clue, theyre all more than a bit in doubt.....a bit of useful info however

nobody like a grammarnazi .....people that notice a ' , or a lack thereof, have issues. ROFL hugs and cute fuzzy bunny rabbits.

Owner of 6 Benellis, 3 M4, 2 M2 tactical, and M1S90 1. Ive NEVER FOUND anywhere on earth if the follower for (my) m2 are the SAME (guess i need to whip out the digital calipers ehh!) for my M4 ??!?!?!? 2. BENELLI contradictory info:::: A: All M4 (that i know of, including MINE 3 M4 tactical) SHIP with a III (MODIFIED) CHOKE...... which ALL LEO / MILITARY are using with BUCK and SLUGS......>Buuuuuut!!!!, Benelli says hell no on using a modified choke with slugs (ive shot a TON of slugs thru my M4 babies) As per Benelli here:::https://www.benelliusa.com/customer-service/faq#question_1394 It specifically says: Which chokes are recommended for slugs? These chokes are recommended for slugs: 4 notches = Improved cylinder 5 notches = Cylinder A cylinder choke is recommended for shooting rifled slugs in a smooth-bore barrel. Sabot slugs should only be shot through our fully-rifled slug barrels. It is not safe to shoot slugs through chokes tighter than those listed here. ..............>> Soooo, Benelli, what the heck, contradictory info and a LACK OF INFO.