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I have finally managed to package a day/low/no light system in the Benelli M4. It's something I've been trying to do for the last 15 years, and finally there are enough things from all of the manufacturers to make this cohesively work! I fired 30-40 rounds of full-power buck/slug yesterday, and re-torqued this mount on the XVL2. It did not move. The wrench just clicked over. It had not loosened. Today, I shot another 50 rounds of crazy stuff like 1290fps 12 pellet 00, etc. I applied a witness mark (Molotow paint pen), and the paint wasn't even cracked where the screw and body juncture is. I have finally found a durable and reliable setup and am stoked. Let me explain the setup: I started with an M4 Entry, OEM from Benelli, 11724. -I replaced the safety with a TTI oversized safety. It allows the "belly" of the trigger finger to naturally toggle it "off" when going to trigger. -I replaced the polymer trigger group with an OEM Benelli part. -The handguards are Benelli OEM with Tango Arms full stipple. This makes a World of difference in keeping your hand out of the light during recoil! -I installed an IWC light/sling mount with 1913 rail. On this I placed an XVL2 IRC from Surefire. It is pictured, and its functions shown in the photo. The IWC mount is torqued to 30 in-lb and Loctite 243 applied. The 1913 rail to IWC juncture same, but to 20 in-lb. The XVL2 IRC is torqued to 9 in-lb (per Surefire), and no threadlocker is applied. It has a split-washer that is offset/constantly applying tension to the screw, within the mount. -I replaced the OEM 1913 rail with a FFT 1913 rail, and torqued it to 15 in-lb and applied Loctite 243 to the screws. -I got an ADM "low" Ti QD mount and placed an H2 in it (It actually works under NODS perfectly when turned to "0", but I later purchased a T2 and prefer it slightly.) This places the optic perfectly for me with the stock on the "mid" 12.25" LOP setting, and "raises" it when the stock is fully extended to use with NODS. It also allows you to remove the sight and use the irons, should the window become damaged, frozen humidity obscure it, whatever the case may be. -The rear ghost ring was replaced with an LPA plain ghost ring, no ears. The front sight was removed, acetone was used to remove the luminescent paint, and Testor's orange was applied, over which was applied automotive clear-coat from a touchup pen. -The side-saddle is a Vang Comp velcro card, attached to velcro from Esstac (they had some handy). It holds shells better than any other I am aware of while still being very easy to load. -I use and prefer the ESD sling, hard-mounted to the back of the stock the old fashioned way, and QD'ed to the IWC up front on the opposite side. -Lubed with Black Rifle Balm and Field Balm from CherryBalmz. Now discontinued. *This is with the side saddle full, and the mag-tube full, 11 rounds on board total. Shotgun ammo payload itself averages well over an ounce once you factor wadding! *Please note that the FCG was completely removed for this photograph! ALWAYS be aware that when the firearm is assembled, if there is a round in the chamber, your Benelli M4 has a cocked and locked hammer! SHOTGUNS ARE NOT DROP SAFE!!!!* *Please note that the FCG was completely removed for this photograph! ALWAYS be aware that when the firearm is assembled, if there is a round in the chamber, your Benelli M4 has a cocked and locked hammer! SHOTGUNS ARE NOT DROP SAFE!!!!* It took me 15 years to refine things to this point, but I finally feel like I have a cohesive, durable, solid form-factor tool.

How about AI? not my picture

your a mad man, Love it!

I also have Sulun TAC12, and I had the same problem, there is no pin fixation either. I decided as follows: 1. clicked on the pin with a toothpick (orange line) so that it hides in the hole. 2. I tied the toothpick with electrical tape (blue line) to fix it to the barrel so that the pin remained hidden inside. 3. From the side indicated by the arrow, lightly hit with a core to deform the entrance to the hole where the pin is located. 4. Removed the electrical tape and toothpick. fixed I decided as follows: 1. Press on the pin with a toothpick (orange line) so that it hides in the hole. 2. I tied the toothpick with electrical tape (blue line) to fix it to the barrel so that the pin remained hidden inside. 3. From the side indicated by the arrow, lightly hit with a kern to deform the entrance to the hole where the pin is located. 4. Removed the electrical tape and toothpick. Fixed!

+1 for Black Rifle Balm(Cherry Balmz)..awesome stay-put-light-grease for all my firearms since it became available. I stocked up when announced it was no longer going to me made. According to the owner, the primary base/source of the Black Rifle Balm is no longer available/refusing to be supplied. Forward Controls has their own product called Snake Oil..it’s a combination made with Black Rifle Balm..same type of stay-put-light-grease & works great. Two other great products: Polydyn 2A..and Extant Labs Alpha Sauce..both are “oils” that provide excellent lubricity & stay pretty well.

That's a whole literal degree. Here is the simple version: https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/235/mixing-lubricating-oils https://www.bellperformance.com/bell-performs-blog/grease-compatibility-something-to-pay-attention-to https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/911/lubricant-incompatibility Here is an even simpler version: Lube A is formulated with "X %" of this and that in it. Lube B is formulated with "X %" of this and that in it. They are formulated with balanced amounts of additives to provide certain anti-wear characteristics as well as chemical buffering, etc. When you mix them, you can unbalance both of them and the mixture is not the greater of the two parts, but rather the lesser, or worse. Even simpler: You do not take the cam out of a SBC 350 Chevy and dump it into a 305 Chevy because the 305 revs higher but the 350 has more torque and you want the best of both of 'em! It do not work this way.

The fastest reload is the New York reload. If the Benelli runs dry then the 226 is there. And the Virtus 300 BLK. I have read somewhere that the biggest problem you will likely have is not running dry but some failure to feed/fire. Drop that weapon and use the next. Yes, it's good to drill on clearances and reloads but my time is spend on transition training

Thank you for the mention! Mine and TTI both lock in similar manner, mine is more than 1/2 the weight of the TTI though. But titanium is pricey and it ain’t getting any cheaper. im going to be releasing a cheaper steel version soon, but will be heavier than the titanium.

highly recommended, I have used the FFT 3/4 big one, the stock and the larger version of the stock one and the TTI v2 is ?, thanks to the board (StrangerDanger) for recommending that! perfect size / texture and looks, no rotation