tucker301

The results depend upon the shape of the projectile moreso than anything else. If the slug is conical then it needs spin to keep it from tumbling as it travels to its target. The further the distance, the more likely it is to tumble, lose velocity, accuracy, and ultimately effectiveness. If the saboted projectile is more rounded and ball-like it will be less less affected by tumbling. Ultimately, your answer lies within your own conscience. Do you want to risk a shot at a buck of a lifetime with a slug that may not hit the mark and do the job?

Good information, Tooky! Polishing the cone has definitie benefits and it's not the same as lengthening, although the cone should absolutely be polished after it is visited by the grim reamer. Older guns and cheaper guns can benefit greatly from polishing. There would be no need to polish the cone in a new Benelli crio barrel however.

Duck season's out. Goose finishes up this week. We'll hit 'em Thurs. - Saturday. Then the SBEII takes a break until April.

Just dreaming with my eyes opened. Never know when Benelli like what they see and turn fantasy into reality

Or perhaps this one

I kind of like this one better

http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15266

I don't think he was saying that the hog was 50 yards away. I think he was saying that he had shot chucks at 50 yards, but it took three shots to kill it. The hog video is believable given the short range, but it's certainly and extreme example of the light projectile's capabilities. I wouldn't hunt dangerous game with an air rifle, but a whipser quiet high velocity air gun could come in handy for some in-town pest control.

Push them out from the inside.

One of the cool things about the Savage firearms is that they all shoot very well right out of the box. Just choose the configuration that's going to best suit your needs. If you're looking for a lighter weight for a walking squirrel hunt, then the sporter barreled models will do fine. If you want more accuracy and stability for varmints and paper-punching then check out the bull barreled models. Single shot or repeater. They all shoot well. I like this one. http://www.savagearms.com/markiibv.htm The Accu-trigger is simply amazing. Completely safe, yet user-adjustable. The blade takes a little getting used to, but it feels perfectly natural after a box or two of ammo at the bench. http://www.savagearms.com/at_pressrelease.htm There are a ton of aftermarket products available for the Savages as well. You can trick them out as fancy or plain as you like and can afford. The Ruger 10/22 is perhaps the only one that is more modular than the Savage.

And for when they hang up just out of range, or I just don't feel like walking another 400 yards....

Got out for a little goosing this week. Got a quick triple on a farm pond Monday afternoon and made it out to the blind Friday AM. It was a warm and sunny day with little wind, but we managed to thump a handful before they settled down. We also had this big boy buzz the decoys. We were going to shoot, but then we realized this bird could shoot back ! US Marines Glad it was one of ours! Been a while since I've hunted with my old buddy Leroy. He had to remind me of our signature crossed guns photos. His Stoeger shot pretty well today. Only one FTF out of about 6 rounds.

Lakotah, Overall good information. One little thing needs correcting. Breech is indeed a gun part, but is at the other end of the barrel. A classic example of breech loading weapon would be an O/U shotgun. The choke tube goes on the muzzle. The breach choke is so named because it is used to breach (break through or severe) an obstacle.

Not bad.... You did notice those dime-sized Savage groups on the paper plate were at 100 yards, didn't you? Did you also notice that they were .22LR and not mags? I've never understood the need for the .17 and .22 mags. My .22 LR will put down a small deer with no trouble. My Savage 22-250 will take care of the rest out to 500. 5 @ 100 5 @ 500

That's a nickel .... and at 60 yards! Savage guys usually don't bring those out until they're past the 200 line .

More Savage .22 groups. These were shot at 50 yards.

I've got a Thompson R55 Benchmark. It shoots OK, but the factory trigger is heavy and has quite a bit of creep. I've worked it down a bit, but I'm still not happy with it. It's also not too fond of fouling and needs cleaning after a few hundred rounds. The Savage Accu-trigger is the best thing to happen to rifle triggers since rifle triggers. For ANY amount of money, the Savage is your best bet for an accurate mass-produced rimfire. CZ's are good, but rifle in and rifle out, they don't keep up with the Savages. Here's a sample from the Savageshooters website: In case you can't see the details that well, this is 5 groups of 5 shots each at 100 yards. Who shoots stuff at 50 feet? Just grab it if it's that close!

Good work Matthew!

Yes. The safety can be reversed. It's not an easy operation. it should be done by either a competent gunsmith or Benelli CS.

See response below by Lakotah

Savage rifles cannot be beaten for out of the box accuracy for mass-produced arms. At any price. Period. End of Discussion.

I do not know, but I suspect that the manuals have been built off of bits and pieces of the Super 90 manuals over the years. Some of those do employ rear sights.

Springfield, sensing that you were ill-informed for asking the question to begin with, was doing what any smart CS would do and told you that the two should not be substituted for each other. They were erring on the side of caution when dealing with a yahoo with a yahoo question. The correct answer is that the 7.62 can be safely substitued for the .308, but the opposite is not always true. But then, being the expert who likes to call CS with questions to which you already know the answers, you already knew this I suppose. Back to Benelli. No, you didn't mention that CS told you to torque the screws to 25 lbs in your original post. Yet the failure you've described could easily be attributed to stressed receiver threads. It's kind of hard to keep up with what your current story is when you keep changing it. Can I just ask you. If you know so much about what you're doing, why do you keep calling manufacturers CS departments and asking them how to do things? Do you understand the difference between inch pounds and foot pounds? Have you called the CS department of the company that made your torque wrench and checked with them? Are they clueless idiots too?