Flame Red

Dave himself replied very quickly to my email and said it would definitely work in an M4 so I ordered one.

I could not find out if this would work on a M4. Anyone know?

I was watching one of the gun show on the Outdoor Channel this weekend and was impressed by a safety that was developed for another manufacturer's shotgun. Was a large half moon that was very easy to work without fumbling around at lot like I do with the stock Benelli safety. Does anyone know if there is something like this available for the Benelli's? Edit: I found this one from Dave's Metal Works that looks similiar. But I am not sure it will work on the M1014/M4? http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=316790&t=11082005

Definitely a Bore Snake! But instead of using expensive gun cleaning potions, you should Goggle 'Ed's Red'. Best cleaner there is and dirt cheap. For oiling, use Mobil-1 0W or any other fully synthetic oil in the thinest weight you can. I like to use a bit of grease on the benelli too.

How is this stuff on blued guns? Does it damage blueing?

For those of you that are considering an LaRue QDM for either the Eotech or Aimpoint, be aware that the design of the LaRue mount will fail on Weaver rails (which the Benilli's have). They will fly forward off the forward end of the rail! That is because the forward stop does not go completely across the bottom of the LaRue mount and the 'sharp' edges of the Weaver rails will remove the soft aluminum on the LaRue's forward locking bar. Ask me how I found out Not knocking LaRue products, I have many others and they are wonderful on Picitiny rails. They will work fine if you mount your accessories on a Picitiny rail system. The GG&G Accucam works great on our Benelli's Weaver rail.

When I had mine done, I sent it to Bob Cogan of Accurate Plating and Weaponry. He could not get it off either! He ended up milling the tube while it was in the receiver. He gave me the three positions, which is tacticool. The Numrich tube only gives two as you found out.

The one thing I like about the EOTECH is that it gives you that nice 65 MOI large circle. Rough indication of 'blast radius"! I think the aimpoints only give a dot, which is why I prefer EOTECHs.

I was a bit disappointed once I figured out that it did not fit correctly, but the fix was pretty simple and seems to hold up well. I really like it as it let's me put a forward grip on it which works a lot better for me. Certainly it would be most useful for a flashlight mount platform too. If you want your Benelli to be tacticool, then it is worthwhile. Think of it in terms of your favorite black rifle. If you like your AR-15 with front rails, then this is the way to go. If your AR-15 has the standard plastic handguards, then you probably don't need this either.

The replacement tube that Numrich sells is only a 2 position tube. If you want to get a three position, you can contact Bob Cogan of Accurate Plating and Weaponry. He machined mine. Very reasonable and fast turn around. You have to make sure you tell him you want the third position, or he might only give you two. The only 'problem' is that he cannot refinish the tube after he mills it. So it comes back with a nice raw matal finish.

I recently got the GG&G bolt handle and had no problems with it. I did not know about the Brownell one, which is kind of cool, and might have gone that route. But I think a black finish goes better on it. For the bolt release, I did go with the GG&G tacticle bolt release too. Again, very good, all but pricy unit. No functionality problems. No hard to install but does take three hands and you need a very small (3/32) punch.

Please be aware that that tube is the two position tube. It will permit you to fully extend it and fully collapse it. It does not have the cuts necessary to put the stock in the middle, half way between fully expanded and fully collapsed.

I have one on my M1014. It is wonderful. Got it from Optic's Planet. However, there is a problem with it that can easily be resolved. See this list for details: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15449 Even with that, I do highly recommend it!

I had heard it is very difficult to unscrew the old recoil tube out because Benelli used a powered form of locktite that makes it extremely difficult to unscrew from the receiver. What is the procedure to get the old one out?

I had heard it is very difficult to unscrew the old recoil tube out because Benelli used a powered form of locktite that makes it extremely difficult to unscrew from the receiver. What is the procedure to get the old one out?

Thanks for the linky - but that looks like a stock one that will not let the stock collapse? Does anyone know for sure if this one will let the stock collapse to two positions or three?

But does this one permit the stock to collapse in three positions, or it is make it 'fixed' like the original?

Does the Numrich tube let the stock collapse in three different positions? Looking at the Numrich site, I don't see anything listed under M1014 other than the barrel. What's the part number? Inquiring minds need to know!

Here is a pciture of it with the barrel removed so you can see where the tape is applied. The tape is the length of the fixed tubes that are welded on the barrel. Do NOT apply tape where the tubes come out and need to move! Leave the red protection on the tape as shown, the tape is sticky on both sides. and from another angle, this time I held it in the normal orientation.

I took my M1014 out to the range and put 100 rounds thru her without any malfunctions what so ever. I am very confident that this repair does work. Also, I noted that the tape did not stick to the tubes on the barrel even after all that firing. First of all, here is a picture of the 3M tape I used. It is available at WallyWorld and other auto parts stores. I have seen it in the store in 1/2" and one inch widths. 1/2" is perfect. This tape sticks great and is the perfect thickness. It is used to stick exterior body parts on cars, like bug shields, aftermarket ground effect kits, etc. It is pretty tough stuff. The red arrows point to the area of rubber on the M80 that the tubes can rub against causing a FTF: Note I held it up side down and the barrel is on the bottom.

Yes it does. But apparently if you put pressure (as I sometime do) in the right spot the rubber bearly hits the tubes and hinders their movement just enough to stop the bolt from going all the way back. Does nto do it every time of course. I do think it has a lot to do with where and how you grab it and how hard. Simple fix, I will have to post some picts if it fixes it.

Wanted to post a problem that was brought to my attention by FIAVAIM and explains an intermittant FTE problem I have observed. After installing the M80 rail, I noticed that occassionally the bolt would not go all the way back after firing, causing a FTE. I kind of shugged it off but I have determined the cause. When you remove the barrel from the SG with the M80 installed, you will notice that if you apply some light pressure on the rear of the rail system it can cause the movable gas tubes to rub against the rubber that holds the rail system to the barrel. This seems to be caused by excessive play in that cut out in the rubber in the area of the tubes. The interference seems to make the gun unable to properly cycle. I attempted to reduce the play buy using a small bit of JB weld on the rubber, but JB weld did not seem to adhear. I found that 3M automotive tape was the perfect thickness and I happened to have a roll of 1/2" diameter that was perfect. This is doulbe sided tape, so I left the plastic strip on one side. I cut a peice of the double sided tape about 2" in length and it seemed to adhear well to the rubber. I put it on the 'bottom' part of the rubber, where it meets the bottom of the tubes. Not on the part where the tubes move, but the static tubes that are immovable on the barrel. This tape was the prefect thickness. It was not longer possible to apply pressure to the rail system and cause the tubes to rub anymore. I hope this will cure the problem but I will not be able to do a feild test until next weekend. Will post results here.

Noticed that seems to happen on mine too occassionally. Seems like if you 'twist' it the wrong way it does jam up the gas pistons. Looks like there is enough 'play' in that channel in the rubber around the pistons housing. The rail system can 'bottom' out and so interfere with the piston free movement. Probably happens easily under recoil. Looks like putting in something to make it tighter fit would solve the problem. I will have to experiment. Definately one should NOT lubricate the pistons.

TH - got the GG&G bolt release on - no problemo. Nice that they give you a new roll pin and spring, but I just kept them and used the original. Easy to install. Now I have to take it to the range and do some blasting! Thanks for your help on this.

T-H - thanks ever so much. I ordered a GG&G unit. Figured I get the bolt handle too!