Duggan

Good review, now get some pics up

There are literally thousands of accounts of people who have been screwed over by BOTACH. No thanks, they can all die in a fire as far as I'm concerned.

This. Plus you can damage your threads. When it seems like it won't make it another 360 degrees, it won't. Don't force it. Yea, you can determine age ... not by the serial, but by the markings on the barrel. Look for your marking ... Model 11707 has the new 2 port barrel design ... should also say on your box. Chances are, if it's an m4 that was made in the last 4 years, it's a 11707.

Info here, I did a review of Kips spring. http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17680

Bump for new people asking about this.

Next time I go to the range, I'll put 50 rounds through it as fast as I can. I'm not doing any more than that ... my shoulder and wallet will be hurting enough after 50.

I'm not yet sold on the whole laser thing. I am totally sold on being able to see what I am shooting though.

Around here, 80 degrees feels just perfect for the level of humidity we normally have ... no idea the specifics. 100 degrees and high humidity is just oppressively hot, everything is just sticky and awful. The survivalist in me kind of objects to intentionally moving to a giant desert on principle ... but I guess it will just be an excuse to take my water preps to the next level. ETA - An interesting tool to use when comparing states http://freedom.robocourt.com/ and the site it came from http://www.statepolicyindex.com/?page_id=143

I am a huge fan of the 1/2 inch titanium design concepts knob. The size is not the most important factor ... being flat and having an aggressive texture make it superior to the OEM knob imo. Non-rotating is also key ... the GG&G knob rotates all day long and is huge, and it sucks. Mine came out multiple times, and due to how easily it would spin using my preferred charging method (outside part of my right index finger, right at the first joint past my knuckle) would sometimes end up with me partially charging the bolt, then slipping off and having to regrab and recharge. I think a flat faced, forward facing knob would also work well ... similar to what M1s have.

Everyone keeps saying that ... but I don't know, I have to imagine that 100 degrees is still 100 degrees to an extent, and humidity or no, theres no hiding the raw temperature. As stated, it's one of my reasons for traveling out there ... and to stalk StrangerDanger.

I think you should do a limited edition set of the rails, and send me #1 of 100 due to my thread being the inspiration for their creation ... That would drive M1014 crazy with rage, and it would allow me to put my T1 on my Benelli for the first time ever. It would be even better if you anodized them gold color In all seriousness, I'd love to pay to have one of the first batch (because handouts are for communists).

Agreed. I don't really baby any of my guns, but this one for sure will get treated like a $15 lady.

I'm actually considering moving to Arizona ... my brother goes to ASU and loves it out there, it's about as free a state as it gets and I plan on flying in there and checking it out over the summer ... see if I can handle the heat. I'm considering Texas ... it's about #3 on my potential state list.

It has a lot more utility than that rotting wooden limited edition POS old geezer gun you bought recently

The head on a Surefire G2 is somewhat larger than the body ... without modification, this makes the light point left when it is flush against the barrel, as the head is too big to line up straight with the body. This was no good ... I quickly devised a plan that involved the procurement of half a dozen TACTICAL rubber bands. I looped these rubber bands around the surefire G2 body until I had made the body the same size as the head ... and then the entire unit was test fit against the barrel. Sure enough, once the body was made the same size, the light lined up perfectly, and the light beamed directly straight ahead. I tested the setup on a wall 30 feet away ... and the relatively tight hot spot of the Malkoff M60 was right in line with where the sights of the barrel would have been ... if they hadn't been cut off. At this, we were good to go, so I started taping my planned mount. The rear mounting point is a full width span of 100mph tape, pulled TIGHT and looped around 10x or so. The front mount is half a span of 100mph tape, looped 6x or so, pulled tight as well. Due to the buildup of the body (but not the tailcap), the tailcap is a few mm away from the bore, allowing me to easily manipulate it with my support hand thumb. I can push in for momentary activation, or roll it sideways for constant on. Would a push button tailcap be better? Absolutely, but this thread is all about being cheap and ghetto, so I worked with what I had. It also allows me to easily change batteries out the back. I have to say ... this mount is way more solid than I would have thought. 10 layers of 100mph tape pulled tight holds it pretty securely against the barrel, and the front half spans keep the light centered elevation wise. So there you have it ... my newest shotgun project. I plan on keeping this weapon in my trunk, uncased. It's just another option now ... M4 carbine, ghetto mossberg, or CCW G19. I suspect it will perform admirably at this duty. Hilariously, the LED in the flashlight is worth twice what I paid for the gun. I plan on either point shooting, or using the light beam to mark targets at night. I can't imagine the barrel would get hot enough to melt the rubber bands or the tape ... I think the tube holds 4 rounds, and I don't plan on putting that many rounds through this gun in rapid succession. In the future, I probably will clean it up and make it look more respectable ... I'll get some steel wool and acetone, strip down the awful paint, and then refinish somehow ... maybe even get a clamp on front sight of some type ... but until then, this is what it is - A horrifically ugly weapon that is capable of being a great zombie killer in the right hands. Hope you enjoyed my rambling, this has been my escape from studying for my last 3 finals of my college career. Happy shooting. ETA - And here, to end on a Benelli note ...

And now for what inspired me to make this post ... I took this weapon inside to clean it and see what I could do to improve the condition. I took it completely apart, oiled, and reassembled ... everything seems to be in fine mechanical shape (I've fired it, works 100% thus far), but boy is she rugged to look at. At this moment I was hit with inspiration ... on my workbench table was an old Surefire G2 that I had long since replaced with a 6PD for another project, an unused Malkoff M60 LED that had been replaced by a M60W for my M4. At my left side was a shelf that contained many preps, including several rolls of "100 mph" tape (duck tape). I suddenly knew what I had to do. I have been in many discussions about how to best attach a light to an m4 ... and one thing that is often joked about is duck tape. I had never tried it, but I imagined it would work decently well ... however, I sure as heck wasn't going to cobb up any of my $$$$ guns with a duck tape job. Suddenly, I realized that I now had a test weapon for exactly such a solution. I set to work engineering the perfect duck tape mount ... it should be barrel mounted, perfectly aligned with the bore to beam straight ahead, as forward as possible to cast the smallest shadow, allow the barrel to be removed and the batteries changed without altering the mod, and allow the tailcap to be freely manipulated with only the thumb of my support hand. It also must be SOLID, attached at two points, and not easily pushed out of place or alignment. 15 minutes later I had completed my masterpiece.

The "paintjob" is atrocious. It was obviously a failed homemade camo job that has seen 10+ years of wear and tear. Nicks and scratches cover the weapon and an entire section of the receiver has been rubbed down to bare aluminum. My mag tube has brutal, deep wrench teeth marks ahead of the handguard, and a good portion of my barrel is down to bare steel and somewhat rusted. I also have no sights, for they have been cut off and bare aluminum spots on the rib now greet the eye.

And now for something completely different. As some of you have probably noticed, I'm normally pretty vocal about my thoughts concerning firearms ... I like talking about what the best of the best is, and what mods are available if you want to dump even more money into your $1500 shotgun. Well, this thread is different ... this thread is about the other end of the spectrum. Behold, my "new" Mossberg 500A that I obtained for the shockingly high price of $25

WARNING - If you are the type of pantywaist that only likes shotguns when they are gold plated and unfired, this thread may be catastrophic to your health. I suggest you hit back on your browser immediately, or this may occur: You have been warned.

Seriously, that's totally worth the asking price, if I could have NFA I'd totally buy one this instant.

That door is ridiculous.

You sure can. Takes some custom fab though ... you can cut right up to where the rear nut is that threads into the buffer tube, it takes 2 inches of so off the LOP. I'm planning on doing it to an extra M4 stock I pick up this summer if the Urbino doesn't come out.

Modified. Used to come with 3 when I bought mine, but recent reports are they it comes with one choke, a flush modified. Yes. Some slugs may deform a bit and their accuracy may suffer, but it's safe to shoot a normal lead slug through any choke, despite what some claim. If you're shooting hardened steel slugs or any of the exotic "armor penetrating" ones, I'd use a looser choke. You don't have to clean the m4, let alone remove the choke tube and clean ... You can if you want. Lube is 100x more important than cleaning. No choke = looser than an open choke. Choke threads are exposed, opening up a possibility for thread damage / lots of carbon buildup on the threads. Don't do it.

Nice Stuff

1 Millllion Dollars!