Duggan

Id get a 14 inch in a heartbeat if NY would allow it. Tactical shotgun = indoor weapon = indoor close quarters maneuverability is most import = 4.5 inches makes a big difference. If you can get a 14 inch, do it. Heck, you'll still have the 18.5 barrel and mag tube that you can swap in if you feel you want to for some reason.

Use the bolt carrier handle, small end, pop it out. Super easy.

I figured as much. LaRue mounts are generally run with the levers to the rear, but it doesn't really matter. I agree, small potential gain running it the way you have it ... I was just curious.

Endless vaporware for our beloved M4.

I am extremely interested as to what you think on the M61W.

Get a 11707.

Looks sick. Are you intentionally running the LaRue mount backwards?

Doesn't matter what you shoot. Buy an autoloader if you can possibly afford one. Lean forward. Use plenty of oil.

Shooting to wound = 2 stories in court and almost surely being sued by the person you "assaulted". Shooting to kill = 1 story in court and if played right and justified, no charges pressed by the police. Families can still sure on behalf of their poor sweet child you killed that was trying to kill your family, but shooting to wound is just piss poor advice.

x300 is a great light. For a close range shotgun, you may want to consider something with a wider spread ... I'm planning on using a Malkoff M60W MCE, but I don't even think they are available anymore ... it's a 400+ warm tinted super wide LED dropin. It works well at lighting up entire inside rooms at night, and it doesn't blind you when your eyes are adjusted to the dark (think about when you are woken up at night by someone breaking in your door downstairs). A x300 should be about the same as the M600c in this picture, my light is last. More infos here http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=33463

That's bad. Heck, it's not even that bad in NY. That said, I have both at the ready.

Trying to remove that piece without destroying it and the stock is nearly impossible ... I've tried.

Tag for interest.

Ya, highly doubt it would work being mounted behind your support hand / arm / barrel.

Looks very nice.

I've seen this discussed and tested countless times for ARs, so here is the basic consensus among those who research and test this type of thing: The problem with steel cased ammo is mainly that causes failures to extract in certain guns under certain conditions. Why does it do this? Because steel under pressure (round firing) does not expand like brass does, and as such it does not make as tight of a "seal" with the chamber walls. This means more hot gas and carbon have a chance to make a home for themselves around the cartridge, leading to increased chamber buildup as opposed to brass ammo ... it also doesn't help that steel cased ammo uses notoriously dirty powder it would seem. Now, were you to fire nothing but steel cased ammo, it likely would not be an issue, as each case would only be expanding upon firing to the size of every other case (in theory) ... it's when you shoot a bunch of steel cased ammo, then you switch to brass ammo that you have problems. The brass ammo expands into all that extra chamber buildup the lesser expanding steel case has caused, and many times the round will get stuck in the chamber and cause a FTE. Normally, the extractor slips off the chamber rim, and in extreme cases rips part of the rim off ... You then have to use a rod to punch out the stuck brass, or use a stuck case extractor, but I've never personally used one, despite owning one (got it for free). That's the main problem that many hours of research has determined. Steel cased ammo also is usually weaker (higher potential of squib loads), is often dirtier, less accurate, and tougher on extractors due to being steel as opposed to a softer brass case. The extractor breaking problem has largely been fixed with upgrades on the AR platform ... not sure about the MR1, but I doubt it would be an issue. Long story short, if you want to shoot steel cased ammo, do it. I seriously, seriously doubt it will ever hurt the gun, so long as the rounds you use are the same spec as the chamber of the MR1 (5.56 nato). However, if you plan on switching from steel to brass, clean the chamber extremely well before doing so ... and carry a steel rod, to punch out the somewhat probable FTE that may occur. Also, some guns just don't like certain ammo ... this isn't limited to steel case or brass case, but some guns are just finicky about what they eat, or they really don't like running certain ammo for whatever reason ... the key here is to test out ammo in your rifle before you need to rely on it. Better to fail at the range than fail in time of need. I personally had 8k rounds of 5.56 that I bought for $100/k in 2005ish ... I shot maybe 50 rounds of it, and sold the rest years later for 3x the price. It just isn't for me. IMO, it's worth the small price premium to have cleaner, more accurate, reloadable brass rounds. That's my $.02, and if you want lots more ammo info, cruise around the Ammunition forum of AR15.com.

I used my OEM spring with a 7 round tube for all my shooting up until about a year ago (well over 10k rounds) before swapping it out with Carriercomp's upgraded spring for the **** of it. Not a single issue.

Wow, that wrist picture is hardcore. Fully snapped off .. Get well soon old boy.

Yes, actually ... but not exactly. I got my tube removed by myself with little problems. Most people simply are afraid to use the heatgun enough, as they think it will damage the finish or some other such rubbish. I blasted the receiver for as long as I could stand, then put the stock in a vice and twisted the tube off with both hands. Easy stuff. Or go to a gunsmith if you're a pantywaist.

I'm not going to talk about 922r because I've done it probably 20 times before on this forum, the threads can easily be found with search. What I will talk about is a similar law ... The "prescription drug bottle" laws, which in most states requires that all Rx drugs can only be stored in their original prescription bottles. Do you know an elderly lady who puts her meds in a "monday, tuesday, wednesday..." pill organizer? She's a god damned criminal, and her crimes against society are potentially felony level. If you wish to follow every unenforceable, ridiculous, asinine law out there with extreme compliance, don't change your m4 from stock configuration. You better not use an aerosol can in a manner other than directed either, or big brother will be kicking down your door and dragging your entire family onto the black helicopters in no time.

Is your m4 a limited edition smoked glass version or something? I don't know how you'd possibly hurt the m4 with a heatgun and a pair of manly hands.

Buy a full length titanium and be a boss and a baller at the same time.

News Flash - Another solution has emerged as well. Sidearmor now offers their "Mod 2" rail system with the option of full rails! http://www.sidearmor.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=28_30&products_id=70

Wait ... but this means ... there is now a rail available with no center cut notch! OMGOMGOGMOGMOGMGOMG

Any product on the market, unless specifically stated otherwise, is safe for chrome lined barrels. You want the best? http://www.kgcoatings.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=4&pg=1 Mind you, using KG 1-12 is complete and utter overkill for any shotgun, bordering on mild insanity and the downright absolute waste of product. A smooth bore shotgun won't know the difference between a barrel that was cleaned 10 rounds ago and a barrel that was cleaned 5000 rounds ago ... ask me how I know. As with most quality modern weapons, lubrication is 10x as important as being white glove clean.