Unobtanium

It's the .50 that they won't allow, yes?

...not exclusive to Peter North's film sets. http://www.europeancartridgeunlimited.com/en/usslug.html

They are mounting Aimpoints which use a full cross-bolt system and are largely unaffected by the off-spec rail. However, the LaRue mount is the best mount out there (somewhat arguably, but not really), and it won't work on the rail. The fact that the LaRue mount is good enough to inspire custom rail should explain how awesome it is.

I am willing to bet you have an aftermarket spring that was "shoe-horned" into the M4. It wasn't made for it, and it's got too many coils preventing you loading that extra shell. Kip has a spring that he includes with the tube that has 49 coils and provides more tension than other "more coil" springs while allowing the room for that 7th shell. That is my guess at your problem.

Whenever someone comes up with something good, useful, and full of win. Someone else always schemes to stand on their shoulders and pluck from the ***** tree things they didn't work for, don't understand, and don't deserve. ETA: WHY THE **** is "a-p-p-l-e" ***'ed out?

PM sent. Also, for those who have the 4-40 tapped Celtic Mist part and no good machinists in the area: Arredondo Magazine Release Button 3/4 down on the page: http://www.cpwsa.com/arredondo.htm

Bolt-handles should be out in 4-6 weeks is the impression I get, although this very well could be wrong. Kip will ensure that they match the finish of the weapon as closely as physically possible I am sure.

$10. It took 45 minutes and the guy was VERY VERY thorough with it. He used a dial-indicator to make sure it was straight up/down, center-punched it, drilled it, and hand-tapped it. The only complication was that the "button" on the OEM started to rotated when pressure was applied. Since the NC button is round, it doesn't matter. Drilling through it just relieved a bit of tension holding the button in. However, I was scared it might come out under hard use. Only way to find out? Destroy one and see what it's made of! So I did (not the one he worked on, lol). THat button may well rotated, but it is NOT! going to come loose. It's G2G 100%. If you ever want to change buttons, just grab it with some needle-nose and hold it still and un-screw it. No problem. However, I will be keeping the Nordic Speed Button. It just kick's ass. It doesn't mar (or touch) the reciever. It's easy to "hit" without being rediculously large. It did have some rough machining on the ridges, but a bit of 400 grit sandpaper and 2 minutes fixed that. In case you are wondering, here is the destroyed button, so you can see how it is held to the shell-stop lever. As you can see, there is NO WAY this button is coming out, even though it can rotate if you put enough pressure on it. The shell-stop lever will break before the button comes out (as I demonstrated when trying to "pull it out" with pliars.). The shell-stop lever surrounds the button around the groove around it. Through-drilling it can relieve a bit of tension, and allow rotation under force, but again, with a circular button. This is a non-issue. This is part of why I picked a circular button, as it is my opinion that a hard enough drop or bang could easily rotate the button on the GG&G as the GG&G is not able to rotate independantly of the button due to the anti-rotation grooves. The CMM buttom would rotate independant of the button. The NC Speed-Button may rotate, but it won't matter. There is NO WAY it could jam the operation of the action by hitting the bolt-handle because (obviously) it is circular. All-in-all, I am very pleased with it. It appears to be made of aluminum (not sure the alloy) with Type II "decorative" anodizing. Black. It is obvious how it can rotate under enough pressure, and equally obvious how it is NOT coming out or working loose. Here is the installed Speed-Button with a 5/8" bolt-handle (no interaction), and fully depressed (not reciever interaction, allowing confidence that it will function, and that the reciever will not be marred.)

Wipe it with breakfree CLP. How big are the hogs? How far will the shot be?

NC "speed-button" installed. Win. Love it.

Will trade even for your OEM Bolt release provided it is in good condition (not bent, scratched except from normal marks from shells hitting it, not all corroded, etc.). Will sell outright for $45 shipped USPS Priority w/in CONUS (retail is $59.XX+S&H). Payment via USPS Money Order (also mailed USPS Priority to me. Non-priority mail often times takes a month to get to me due to USPS's incompetance at my local branch. This is why I will drive across town to mail this for you.) Part is LNIB, never installed. *If multiple people want this item it will be sold at my discretion regardless of who posts first in this thread/who PM's me.

Nordic Comp bolt release pad arrived today. Not impressed with the machining, but it is functional and a lot better than the GG&G and CMM. It also won't mar the reciever with usage. THe bolt is a #6-32, and so I am having my OEM bolt-release drilled/tapped by a local machine-shop tomorrow. In my opinion, couple of rough-edges aside, this is the best/cheapest bolt-release around. $13 for it, and $10 or so to have your OEM one drilled/tapped. Also, it is made of aluminum. It appears to be Type II anodizing, but I won't swear to it. Shouldn't matter, really. Even if the shop butchers 1 OEM bolt-release (which I highly doubt), you can still buy another and try again for less than the GG&G and about the same as the CMM, which is totally full of fail, imho. IF someone disagrees, I will sell them my CMM for $45 shipped w/in CONUS.

You shouldn't be using those dots in the day-time anyways. You will miss every time. It's a ghost ring. The tip of the post automatically finds it's way to the center and the target is bisected horizontally by it and you pull the trigger. The dots make a Micky Mouse at night, and are only good for approxomation, such as across the living room, etc.

Brownells. Or, just call Benelli. If it's an M4, they support those VERY WELL. They sent me a FP retaining pin because I said I couldn't find one to buy at brownells (Brownell's didn't have the O-ring, so instead of sending me an O-ring for the pin, they sent the assembly). Free, arrived in less than a week from when I placed the call.

A lot of people have noticed the anodizing wearing off in the upper-reciever where the barrel-tang resides. This is harmless, and it doesn't really matter, but with my latest M4, I tried something different. I coated the outside of the tang that contacts the inner-reciever with TW25B, or Brian Enos Slide Glide. This (I think) serves to dampen the vibration and protect the reciever. My inner reciever on this M4 shows less wear for the same around of rounds as my previous 2. Just aesthetic, but it's an interesting footnote.

Send Benelli an e-mail. Do what they say. If TSHTF and it blows up, I think that you will have grounds to get settlement. I doubt it will take your head off.

No. It insures that you can get it OUT of the barrel. Using a proper wrench to tighten it insures that it stays in.

Children. Stay away from them. That being said, your M4 indeed has a MOD choke. Further, do yourself a favor and buy a Briley speed wrench and some Birchwood Casey choke-tube grease so that choke stays in the weapon and doesn't go sailing down-range. Mine loosened up every 25 rounds with the OEM wrench. With the Briley, I shot probably 50+ rounds of buckshot and 15 slugs today, let a few people do mag-dumps with it, did a few myself, and I cannot turn the choke with any amount of finger-pressure, so it's G2G. One person actually asked "Is it okay that he wants to shoot it, it won't get to hot will it?" Lmao. Police depts. have done testing 'till failure on the M4S90 shorty and the handguards melted before the weapon failed. ETA: just removed/replaced choke tube and it took roughly the same effort to remove it as if I had not shot the weapon at all.

The OEM choke supplied is supposed to be the MOD choke. Can you verify that you recieved a non-standard choke? I am suprised the military junk shot better than the Remington 00. That military stuff is all sorts of deformed while Remington has the roundest buckshot I have seen, save for Hornady's. Really good post. Most people are going to use these weapons at a similar distance to what you tested, and it drives home the point that you need to AIM A SHOTGUN. It also looks like you have experienced the same as I have. 2.75 usually patterns better than 3", even with the same brand/line of ammo.

Consider. IF you fail to follow-through with a swing, you will miss the clay/bird. Why then should movement under recoil (we know for a fact the weapon recoils while the shot is leaving the bore) not also have a very minor effect on pattern?

It's the only thing I can think of. All 3 of my M4's have done this.

To get the above results, I purchased many types/sizes of buckshot and chokes and mixed/matched all the combo's until I found the winner. I tried Rem 00 2.75 9 pellet Rem 00 Supertac 8-pellet Win-lite 00 9-pellet Federal Flite Control Rem 3" 000 Rem 2.75" 000 Winchester Super X 00 2.75" Remington 0 2.75 Remington 2.75" #4 Remington 3" #4 Winchester 3" 000 Federal 2.75" 000 Probably a few others. I tried: Briley IC/MOD/IMOD/Full Kick's Buckkicker chokes in all constrictions Primos Dead-Deer choke Some would throw good patterns at 20 yards, but totally fall apart at 30-45 yards. It took a lot of work to find a combo that would throw a pattern that was tight, even, and expanded in a linear instead of exponential fashion with distance. You will notice that the shot seems "strung" a little-bit up/down. My other M4's did this as well. I think it has to do with the fact that before the charge exits the barrel, the weapon has already recoiled over 1/2" The shot is exiting the muzzle during recoil. Ergo, it is going to have a SLIGHT verticle stringing. Just my experience and analysis.

...and this is why you should pattern your shotguns. It leads to optimal results. I did not have large poster-board with me today, but from previous experience this setup will keep 80-100% on a 22x28" poster at 45 yards. Get out there. Pattern your stuff. Don't be another idiot who just goes and buys a choke, some buck, and thinks they can get results like this just because you have good ammo, a good choke, and a good shotgun. Take the time to figure out what WORKS. (Sighted for slugs at @50 yards, hits 2" high at 25 w/buckshot.)

If you aren't getting over-pressure signs it doesn't matter. Sure, the extra 150-200fps or so will of course wear things out faster, but that's more of a technical side-note. The main problem is that firing 5.56 in a .223 chamber can lead to over-pressure due to the shorter leade.