Creeper

Hey Sukhoi... your inbox is full. Shoot it a few times so that it drains better, eh?

3-Gun Nation is a good place to start. C

Work up a load with a (preferably light) bullet you like... using more of a slower burning powder. You want enough to effectively "operate" the ports, but no more. It's a bit of a balancing act to work up a load, but if your search-foo is good, you'll find all sorts of articles and load data on the interwebnet. C

Could read, could send PMs... but couldn't post. Went through mild withdrawals for awhile. C

I've got a half case of the discontinued Baschieri & Pellagri "Baby Magnum" Shells. 2.75", 1.5 oz. of #'0' Italian shot (.154") at 1300 fps. Love to see what they do to gelatin. C

It's easily worth $600, and depending on the model and condition, as much a $1100 in some parts of the country. After you've run about 200,000 rounds through it, and it's just starting to get broken in... you should be a happy camper. C

Momma taught me to be polite... so a bump a week is good for me. C

I do compete in 3-gun*, and I wouldn't buy it. I'd spend a few extra bucks and get a gun built by a 3-gun competition 'smith... like Taran Tactical for example. It's basically an M2, item # 11026 with several Nordic and other accessories fit to it, and a cool 3-gun logo... for about $1300 more than the 11026. You can put together almost the same gun, if you're a little mechanical, for a lot less. If you like a 3-gun "look", but intend to use it for skeet, sporting clays, etc... a 11021 with a few accessories would be a better bet. All IMO of course. I'd be happy to provide you with the names of the various, 'smiths, manufactures and parts you'd need to create a 3-gun conversion.... to what ever level of competition you want. Cheers, C *Not in a year or so actually... I got cancer and I'm kinda stuck at home.

I don't want to get that dirty... so I guess I'm not very tackycal. Where'd ya' get the cool beret? C

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Thanks KB. I bought it before I started shooting 3-gun... and for that, it's really not very practical. Then again, shooting 3-gun with a 18.5", GR sighted M2T isn't very "gammy"... so I guess I'm a bit of an anomaly. Momma taught me proper manors... looks like some of it stuck, even on the interwebnet. C

Just a bump-a-loo.

All good to know truckcop. I've never been a big fan of drilling and tapping the button myself... which is why I tend to recommend the DMW Speedbar for those that are "on the fence". I suppose my fears stem from several years ago and the one time I did drill and tap a button on an M1... the button separated from the lever. I had to silver solder it back on and although in the remaining years that I owned the gun it never came loose again, I was suspicious of it from that point forward. Some (many?) don't think much of the Speedbar, but as a left-hander using my thumb, I find it to be easy to locate and depress. If we all followed the same voice, it'd be a pretty dull and tedious world to live in. C

Well... there ya' go. Every time I think I know things, I find out I don't know every things. Gracias truckcop for the knowledge base upgrade. Tac2 I was not aware of, and GG&G... I just flat out forgot about. Cheers, C

Unless you can get one direct from Benelli (who may be getting them from Nordic), or on an exchange from one if the more well known 3-gun gunsmiths like those I've listed below... nope. Cheers, C Accurate Iron: http://www.accurate-iron.com/ C-Rums: http://www.c-rums.com/ Taran Tactical / Taran Butler: http://tarantacticalinnovations.com/ Triangle Shooting Sports / Benny Hill: http://www.triangleshootingsports.com/ Briley: http://www.briley.com/ Predator Tactical / Matt Burkett: http://www.mattburkett.com/ Rose Action Sports / Steve Rose: http://roseactionsports.com/

If modifying your existing bolt release is the big concern, and you still want a larger button "target"... consider a DMW Speedbar. It requires no drilling, filling, milling or even disassembly other than to slide your forend forward enough to insert it. If on the other hand you must have a large pad/button that affixes directly to your existing button, there are several makers that will modify your stock release for their button with a fairly quick turnaround... Briley for example. Cheers, C

Anyone interested in a Mesa Tactical 6 shell holder/1913 rail for a M2? It's been a minty, safe queen part, actually installed for less than a month, and has never had anything mounted to the rail. It's the newer version that it uses the excellent MT/Benelli replica tapered screws and lock washers. $80 OBO shipped in the CONUS. PM me if you want more info, pictures etc. Cheers, C

Truth be told, the only thing you really need to get started in 3-gun is... 3 guns , a higher capacity magazine tube for the shotgun, and a positive attitude. Here's a link to the 3-Gun Nation site... that explains every thing you ever wanted to know. It doesn't cost an arm and a leg if you hang in the limited or tactical optics divisions, you meet lots of cool folks... and you learn a lot of stuff you didn't know that you didn't know. Cheers, C

It's not my gun, just one that was recently completed and as yet unbattered. This gun starts at about $2500 and includes a new M2 and a lifetime warranty. If you go to the Taran website, you can see all that he does and sells. C

One of several custom shotgun smiths in the country who weld up the 'U' cutout at the front of the carrier so your thumb doesn't catch between the carrier and the front of the loading port. Many folks have this issue... and some don't. This is a common modification for 3-gun match shotguns... in addition, the loading ports are beveled and ramped and the receiver is blended to insure the smoothest, quickest possible reloads. Unless you're shooting 3-gun, or anticipate a large contingent of zombies... or just bored and have money to burn, none of these modifications qualify as a necessity. In the image below, you can see all I've described on a 3-gun Benelli M2 which was done by Taran Tactical. Cheers, C

That's pretty funny. On page one... alexcapone, meet sniper1. C

If you can't find the OEM item... Way back when (and even now)... you'd see limiter dowels (plugs) made of wood. Sometimes you' see a couple of tight fitting o-rings on the dowel to keep it centered up, as it doesn't have to be a tight fit. If the thought of wood bothers you, use wood to establish the correct length, then duplicate that length with a nylon dowel or even a (relatively) thick wall hard nylon tubing... which you can get at any hardware store. Cheers, C PS... don't over compress your mag spring. Just enough limiter to prevent a additional, not legal shell.

Not to step on Jackalop's thread, but yes... over time and use, it does leave a little grooving. However, unless your gun is a safe queen... it's kind of a non-issue. The best part is, you hit it almost anywhere but the very front, and it works. If I had better grip strength, I might even be able to get it to work from there as well. C

No worries Case. Back when I taught mechanics and machining for Harley-Davidson Motor Co. I had lots of big bottles of practically every Loc-tite made at the time.... you know, stuff I "borrowed". Over the years, with friends that don't know the difference between Loc-tite and cake icing, my supplies have dwindled somewhat. The very first time I encountered 222 was when H-D came out with the diaphragm clutch in 1984. They used it on the 4 1/4" bolts that were used to compress the spring. At the time, 222 was preferred because apparently it stood up well to a hot, oily environment. Torque value was quite low (6 or 7 ft.lbs as I recall), so I believe that's why, even though 222 is intended for 1/4" and smaller fasteners, they chose it over 242. There ya' go... things you never wanted to know about me. Cheers, C