Hookster

Hi Zee, I don't think you'll find a "Made in USA" follower that is actually marked as such. I sent an e-mail to Brownells asking if the follower was made in the USA and printed their response e-mail. I also printed the page off their site that shows the follower because it also states "Made in USA" Later, Hookster

Geiselle SSA trigger arrived today! I'll install tomorrow after hitting the gun show. Later, Hookster

.....and LWRCs http://www.gunsandammomag.com/cs/Satellite/IMO_GA/Story_C/LWRC+SABR+Rifle Hookster

Hi Zee, Yes, It's marked "KZ U.S.A" Here's a photo. It's a little hard to see but it's marked at the front under the side rail with a little white star logo Take Care, Hookster

LMT 7.62 MRP Later, Hookster

As for the age of your M1. There's a little rectangle with a couple letters in it stamped in your receiver near he trigger guard. Match that code to the chart in post #2 of this thread: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19454 This will give you the year of manufacture As far as things to know about it. It's an excellent shotgun! Biggest Benelli noob issue is probably not knowing how the cartridge drop lever works. People think their shotgun isn't cycling properly. Study your manual which you can download from the Benelli site if you didn't get one with the gun. Later, Hookster

Sorry but I can't tell you. I haven't replaced a recoil tube but you could probably get instructions from Sure Cycle. Since people need to remove the factory tube to install their system I would imagine they offer a good set of instructions to cover removal of the factory recoil tube. Later, Hookster

Me too! I had to sell mine when I moved back to CA from Colorado. I'd spent a small fortune on stocking up on the 25 rd. mags too. Mine looked like this one: Hookster

LOOKS GREAT Taylaboy!!!!! Did you have any problems with the GG&G bolt release pad installation? Hookster

If anyone else is interested in the Geiselle SSA trigger. Adco seems to have very fast shipping. I ordered this morning early and it's already on the way. Hookster

Hi Zee, The Brownells follower is not marked as a U.S. made part but it is identified as one on their web site. G2G=good to go Take Care, Hookster

Geissele SSA has been ordered! Thanks to all for advice offered! Later, Hookster

Is this the one? They say you can buy this one now. http://www.adcofirearms.com/shoppingcart.cfm?orderno=94556701 They have another one listed as SSA LP (large pin) that is out of stock. I'm not sure about pin size. I have a Bushmaster lower Hookster

Thanks for the heads-up on that one Taylaboy. I had a bit of hesitation about that one. It didn't look like it actually would do that much as far as serving as a riser to the comb of the stock. It looks more like just a pad and from what you're saying, an ill-fitting pad at that. If you do try the lace-on, let me know what you think and if I get one first I'll do the same. I'll probably be hitting a gun show this weekend so that'll be one of the things I have my eye out for. Thanks Again, Hookster

Thanks Skeeter!

I agree, put that tube on there. It'll make ya' HAPPY!!

Yeah, I noticed the availability issue but I'm sure one could be had given enough diligence, patience and $...

Hey All, I'm looking at some options for an improved AR trigger. I was wondering if anyone had experience with the two-stage triggers from LMT or Geiselle? Later, Hookster

Here's the text of the post: Hi cop1211, I received my full length magazine tube for my M4 from SOCOMguy yesterday December 26th. By using a Milwaukee 1200 watt heat gun and aiming it at the base of the tube and receiver for about two minutes it loosened the factory Locktite stuff. It was still a bit difficult to turn but I wanted to use as little heat as I could. The end of the factory tube and receiver were still very hot to the touch even after only 2 minutes of exposure. My M4 wears the Desert Camo which was not affected at all by the heat. After assembly with the full length mag tube and factoy spring (but without using any new Locktite) I did a manual function check using dummy 12 gauge shells. I encountered no malfunctions at all. I even tried loading one on the shell lifter and that functioned flawlessly; but again this was all manual testing I’ll post a range report of the live fire testing. I also found a guy who will Dura Coat the new mag tube to match the Benelli Desert Camo pattern. Cheers, Mick Here's the link to the thread (it's post #10) http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17497&highlight=socom+mag+swap Later, Hookster

Perhaps M1014, the Swami of all rare Benelli things, will have some insight for you. Hookster

This explains a lot. Too many direct hits off the ol' freon tank

Yeah, If I recall correctly actual application of flame is recommended for that stuff

My durometer is in the shop for it's monthly calibration

Another reason I opted for no Loc-tite is that if I chose to install the GG&G bolt release pad, it looked like it might be slightly easier to deal with the little spring that sits behind the lever if you could access it throught the hole that the mag tube occupies. As well as detailed cleanings like if it got dunked in water etc. Later, Hookster

I opted not to use any. Kip recommends just a drop of blue medium strength loc-tite IF you choose to use any. I figure if I did have any problem with it loosening up (which I don't anticipate) it wouldn't be a problem to unscrew it and add a drop of the loctite. Here's a copy of Kip's instructions which address this at the end just in case you don't have them: This is "cut-n-paste" from our Gunbroker.com listing, in case you ordered from our online store where directions have not yet been uploaded. Sorry to leave you hanging. Hope this helps; Tools required; > Heat gun.(Refrain from using flame devices, torches, etc., they are overkill and have the potential of discoloring the finish on the receiver) > Snap ring pliers. >Stiff nylon or brass bristled tooth-brush, Q-tips and acetone. > Rubber grip pad. (Similar to a jar lid gripper, or even a piece of tire inner tube) >Padded vise. (not required but helpful if done alone without an assistant) Before proceeding please ensure the firearm is completely unloaded, clear mag tube and chamber, firearm on safe. Lock the bolt to the rear, then remove the factory barrel nut (by hand), set the barrel, bolt group, and handguards to the side. Using snap ring pliers set to compress when gripped, carefully remove the spring retainer from the end of the factory mag tube, (keep it aimed away from your face, with your other hand over the end so that the spring can be safely contained when it is "set free"). Then tilt the gun downwards, allowing the spring and follower to fall out. Place gun in a lightly clamped padded vise (ensuring the bolt release button is not clamped), between your knees, or in the hands of a competent assistant. Using the heat gun set to a maximum 400 F, apply direct heat to the full circumference of the mag tube where it meets the receiver, allowing heat to reach the receiver as well, continue rotating the heat around the junction until the two are beyond unbearable to touch (using an infra-red thermometer if available, you will typically see results when the receiver temp nears 250F), favor application of heat to the receiver, as it retains heat more efficiently. At that temp (around 250F) you should be able to begin twisting the factory tube off [ccw](here's where the rubber grip pad does double duty as a heat shield, and provides much better grip than bare hands). Do not use a pipe wrench for a few reasons, 1st it will damage your factory tube, but foremost it will provide excessive torque that may allow you to force removal before the loc-tite is ready to let go. Once it starts to turn, the battle is won, just keep it turning until it is free. Next clean the internal threads with acetone, Q-tips, and the nylon or brass tooth brush. It will look scary at 1st since the residue from the factory loc-tite is chalky white, but once you have it all cleaned off, you should be looking at the pristine black anodized receiver threads where the old tube use to be. You are now ready to install your replacement tube. Don't forget to transfer the handguard's stamped steel rear brace onto the new tube BEFORE threading it into the receiver, it is a "captured part" that has to be in place during assembly. Most people opt to fore-go the use of loc-tite, simply torqing in their new tube as tight as can be done by hand. If you use loc-tite, make sure you check the data sheet, and select a grade that can be heated for removal with LOW HEAT like the factory used. Typically just a drop of medium strength Loc-Tite brand "blue" will be sufficient if you use any at all. Replace all the remaining components, and enjoy!! __________________