Hookster

Don't mess with those squirrels, they might have some of those DDupleks rounds

No worries Larry and welcome to the forum. The pistons should move back and forth freely. Later, Hookster

LMT MRP 7.62 is on my list for 2010

Shiny Goodness

Me Too!!!!!

Yes, it's a fairly easy process. You'll just need a heat gun. Here's a copy of Kips instructions: Tools required; > Heat gun.(Refrain from using flame devices, torches, etc., they are overkill and have the potential of discoloring the finish on the receiver) > Snap ring pliers. >Stiff nylon or brass bristled tooth-brush, Q-tips and acetone. > Rubber grip pad. (Similar to a jar lid gripper, or even a piece of tire inner tube) >Padded vise. (not required but helpful if done alone without an assistant) Before proceeding please ensure the firearm is completely unloaded, clear mag tube and chamber, firearm on safe. Lock the bolt to the rear, then remove the factory barrel nut (by hand), set the barrel, bolt group, and handguards to the side. Using snap ring pliers set to compress when gripped, carefully remove the spring retainer from the end of the factory mag tube, (keep it aimed away from your face, with your other hand over the end so that the spring can be safely contained when it is "set free"). Then tilt the gun downwards, allowing the spring and follower to fall out. Place gun in a lightly clamped padded vise (ensuring the bolt release button is not clamped), between your knees, or in the hands of a competent assistant. Using the heat gun set to a maximum 400 F, apply direct heat to the full circumference of the mag tube where it meets the receiver, allowing heat to reach the receiver as well, continue rotating the heat around the junction until the two are beyond unbearable to touch (using an infra-red thermometer if available, you will typically see results when the receiver temp nears 250F), favor application of heat to the receiver, as it retains heat more efficiently. At that temp (around 250F) you should be able to begin twisting the factory tube off [ccw](here's where the rubber grip pad does double duty as a heat shield, and provides much better grip than bare hands). Do not use a pipe wrench for a few reasons, 1st it will damage your factory tube, but foremost it will provide excessive torque that may allow you to force removal before the loc-tite is ready to let go. Once it starts to turn, the battle is won, just keep it turning until it is free. Next clean the internal threads with acetone, Q-tips, and the nylon or brass tooth brush. It will look scary at 1st since the residue from the factory loc-tite is chalky white, but once you have it all cleaned off, you should be looking at the pristine black anodized receiver threads where the old tube use to be. You are now ready to install your replacement tube. Don't forget to transfer the handguard's stamped steel rear brace onto the new tube BEFORE threading it into the receiver, it is a "captured part" that has to be in place during assembly. Most people opt to fore-go the use of loc-tite, simply torqing in their new tube as tight as can be done by hand. If you use loc-tite, make sure you check the data sheet, and select a grade that can be heated for removal with LOW HEAT like the factory used. Typically just a drop of medium strength Loc-Tite brand "blue" will be sufficient if you use any at all. Replace all the remaining components, and enjoy!! __________________ The only other thing you might think about is 922r compliance if that is something you choose to worry about. Later, Hookster

Click on the 5th icon from the right above the reply box (yellow square that looks like it has a little black mountain at the bottom) that will bring up a widow and you simply paste the URL address of the photo in. (you need to have the photo uploaded on a sharing site like Photo Bucket) Later, Hookster

Best of luck on your last final sir! Hookster

Yeah......Yikes! getting hit with one of those could ruin someones day http://www.ddupleks.lv/EN/ddupleks_products/show/Monolit32

Hey Duggan! I remember you mentioned having this underway as a project a while back. How did it go? Hookster

Yeah, don't worry about the thermometer but get the heat gun. Hookster

The ones on this Numrich M1 Super 90 page are described as being for M1 and M3 if that helps you out http://www.e-gunparts.com/products_new.asp?Catid=10308&mySort=1 Hookster

I agree, I don't understand why they have two different ones either.

O.K. but the 3" one should be all you need for an M4 Hookster

Hi Zee, I think they are meaning the 3.5 would be for a Benelli using a 3.5" shell (Super Black Eagle). I actually have both the Brownells 3" and 3.5" followers. They are very close to each other. The 3.5 is slightly shorter and the pattern of the holes in the side is a little different. They are both shorter than the stock Benelli M4 follower. I'm using the Brownells 3" one in my M4 but I'm sure the 3.5 would work just as well. Later, Hookster

Hey All, Just thought I'd throw this out there in case anyone is interested in the option of making a Benelli stock forend with mounting rail like the one posted by Duggan in posts #2 and #3 of this thread: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19150&highlight=light+mounting Brownell's now sells Benelli M4 forends (left and right are sold seperately) so you wouldn't have worry about drilling your only one if the project didn't go well for whatever reason Right side: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=23721/Product/FOREARM__RIGHT Left side: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=23720/Product/FOREARM__LEFT I believe that these rail sections are similar to the ones used in Duggan's post: aluminum http://www.ergogrips.net/item-detail.cfm?ID=4752&storeid=1&image=ergoaump.gif&CFID=37904886&CFTOKEN=90156085 or polymer http://www.ergogrips.net/item-detail.cfm?ID=4750&storeid=1&image=ergoprail.gif&CFID=37904886&CFTOKEN=90156085 Later, Hookster

Numrich has the walnut forearm http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=1137980&chrSuperSKU=&MC=&CatID=10310&mySort=1 Hookster

Hi shugz, You want the Meprolight ML-34302 sights. That's what I use and they are excellent! They are available from many places here's where I got them http://www.officerstore.com/store/product.cfm/pid_6182_meprolight_benelli_shotgun_night_sight_ghost_ring_set/ Later, Hookster

Boom, Boomer & Boomest

I'm a fan of the ADM stuff. They lock on good. But, if I was being picky, I'd say they could of made the throw lever slightly smaller Hookster

Congrats on the new baby! Let us know what you think after you go blastin' Hookster

Here ya go jojunior. Lotsa pics in this thread but these are pre-FL tube. http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19942&highlight=surefire+m80 Later, Hookster

Dat dere iz purty Skeeter!!! Hooksta

You don't need to use the seperate top rail section with the KZ forend for it to be secure so you may be able to keep the Mesa without having to cut anything. Let us know. Later, Hookster

Hi Yar, Here's what I think you want on this page but it's $157 http://www.e-gunparts.com/products_new.asp?Catid=10308&mySort=1 Hookster