Super Dak©

I can see these going the way of the Striker 12 and Street Sweeper as DDs (non-sporting high capacity .5" bore etc). Might want to grab one quick and wait for the amnesty registration...Looks similar/lesser version to the old NeoStead 2000 but that wasn't importable (thanks BATF)

I don't know why the Benelli Meprolights don't have the white ring. The Meprolights on my Kimber Ultra Crimson Carry II have it, and they are great in any light. Plus they are very bright compared to the ones on my M2 (seems that's by design?) But that's just me.

Damn Skeeter, when are you gonna' shorten the bbl on that S Nova? All that money to make it shorter with the all mighty C-stock, then keep the 18" bbl, just doesn't look right IMHO Unless you're just a T-Rex and need the 8" LOP?

If you're referring to my cases (in my photo album) I cut them myself. I used a hot-wire foam cutter. They’re not perfect (these were my first attempts) but they came out pretty good The cases were pretty cheap (definitely not Pelican). Since most of my guns are NFA, they live in a safe. I just got the cases to keep things from banging around against each other when I take the 10 minute drive to the range.

The CDM clamp looks like a good piece and should do the job nicely. Yes, the tape switch is both constant and momentary (the round button is constant, and the longer tape switch is momentary). Allot of people argue about having a light on a gun (i.e. gives away your position) but to me it's just another tool that you don't have to use if the situation doesn't require (much like my concealed carry gun). I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it) I have the same setup (light and switch) on my M-16 w/11” bbl, with the light mounted at 1:00 off the gas block, and it works just as well (no shadow and doesn’t illuminate the front sight).

I have the Nordic Components clamp/mount on my M2 for my SureFire X300, and love it. I don't notice any weight at the bbl end, and putting it there it doesn't light up my bbl/front sight and there's no bbl shadow. 'Course my bbl is 14" so it was going to be at the bbl end no matter what. So if you have an 18"+ bbl, you don't have to put it all the way to the end. I also mounted the switch (a modified XT07) where my thumb naturally rests.

Stop being a bully Skeeter, just 'cus some of us are big enough to not need a C stock 'Course most of my guns are under 25" any ways, and I'm 6'4" so go figure

This is one of the few new movies comming out that really looks good!

http://www.onlythebestfirearms.com/miscnfa.html Shows it's in-stock, and says it comes with the collapsible stock, but the price......

I go back and forth on whether or not to get a M203, but if I could, this is what I'd get...just 'cus it's that cool!! http://www.autoweapons.com/photos06/nov/pump40.html

Looks like he loves Doberman sausage.

The bbls are interchangeable, and the rear sight removes with 2 screws. Seems like a decent idea to get some extra use/value out of your gun.

Teach the dogs to shoot and you won't even have to get out of bed

Is there a reason/benefit that most people have their lights on the forend and not the end of the bbl? Or is it just for ease of mounting? On both my M-16 and M2, I have the x300 mounted close to the end of the bbl, with remote switches where my hand rests (course, both guns are pretty short, so they are just ahead of the forend anyways). The weight is negligible to me, and it doesn’t light up the bbl/sights, nor cast a bbl shadow. Just wondering, since most setups I see here have the light on the forend.

I love my pitbull, but I didn't get him to protect me (he's not that brave anyways ) I only need him to wake me up if there's trouble. I’ll gladly take care of an intruder myself (the dog is spoiled and sleeps in the bed). Now if I had a cat, my first line of defense would be to throw the cat at the intruder (they always land claws out )

Guess I should also mention that, obviously, caliber makes a diff My M-10 is a .45, but I haven't shot a M-10 9mm (and just don't see the need to get a 9mm conversion kit just yet). The Sterling is 9mm and it's very controllable, but it's also a much better designed gun (from its simplicity to the mags) compared to the MAC. Hey Skeeter, did you get your MAC yet??? Try a one-handed mag dump and get back to us

Read the manual. pg 36

Great info/tests! Thanks. In the first pic (This is Sellier & Bellot 2.75" OO Bk, 9 pellet. 5.5-inch / 7.75-inch), isn't that 12 pellet? I have some S&B and it's 12 (and the pics have more than 9 holes ) Seeing these, I'm pretty happy with the Federal LE Tactical that I got on sale!

Seen and heard allot about those (all very good). But I really got my MAC for what it is (and the silencer) cheap and small. I'm not shooting subgun matches, so I'm not trying to make it into "poor-mans Uzi" (if I wanted that, I would have just got an Uzi ). But I am interested in this http://practicalpage.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=66 . I've got a .22 conversion for my M-16, and it's a hoot on full auto (and cheap!)

Hollywood is a joke, but it also depends on which gun you're shooting. My Sterling is controllable one-handed, and with the stock out (i.e. shouldered) you can keep it on target all day doing full mag dumps (but it’s just a special gun J ). My MAC M-10 is on the total opposite end of the spectrum! One-handed, it's a bullet hose. Your first round might hit close, but the rest are all over the place (mostly high J ). With the stock and silencer, it helps a lot, but still it's not easy to control. The M-16 is in the middle, but still is really only effective doing bursts. I can hold it down and get a decent area group, but you're wasting a lot of ammo (and with anything full auto, that gets expensive quick!) Movie silencers are even worse J. They allow you to shoot without hearing protection, but even my .22 with subsonics isn't whisper quiet like the movies.

It also depends on local laws (which it's helpful to know a little about). AZ passed (in 06) a law that puts the burden of proof (in self defense cases) on the prosecution (previously it was on the defendant) and also included the "castle doctrine" (basically "stand-your ground" law) that gives Arizonans the authority to use physical or deadly force to protect themselves against intruders if they believe they're "in imminent peril of death or serious injury". No more duty to retreat first. If an intruder shows the capability, opportunity, and manifest of intent, you are justified. They don’t even need a weapon. If you're 5'2" and 105lbs, and some 250lbs intruder advances and says "I'm going to kill you", that covers it. Do what works for you and the local laws. Here, I feel comfortable not letting an intruder get a shot off while he's limping (or even a lucky punch/stab etc). Just my opinion. Now if I still lived in Western NY…..???? But I understand where you're comming from and your justification.

I used this one (in my M2 album pics) http://shop.nordiccomp.com/NC-Shotgun-Tube-Clamp-w-Rail-BCT-XX-12-00.htm I didn't want to light up my bbl or sights, so I wanted the light towards the end.

Agreed, you shouldn't even PULL your gun unless you need/intend to shoot. If there's no need to shoot, you don't feel you're in danger. But if you do feel you need to shoot, that implies that you fear for your life and need to defend yourself with lethal force. I asked my instructor about having my first round in my 12 gauge a non-lethal (bean bag/rubber slug etc) for legality purposes (to show I didn't intend to kill). His point is that (and it follows the principles of self defense shooting IMHO) IF you are to the point of pulling your gun, you are to the point of HAVING to shoot. If you have to shoot (i.e. you pulled your gun), you believe it's a life and death situation and you need drop the assailant before they kill you. If you are pulling your gun at unarmed thieves or don't think your life is in danger, that’s another story... Don't know if that's exactly what you're saying, and that's just my opinion (I've been wrong before ) and I'm just passing along one instructors view.

If having my security system/dog/defense gun/safe hasn't deterred/stopped them, I have to assume, with a gun pointed at my head, that they plan on killing me anyways. So no, I’m not opening my safe ('course, that's easier to say when it's not happening to you, so who knows )

Hmmm, my state certified CCW instructor (who's a cop and trains Law Enforcement as part of his position) said, if in a situation that you need to pull your weapon (i.e. you’re going to shoot in self defense) that you keep pulling the trigger 'till the assailant drops. A non-lethal shot means they can still kill you (which defeats the purpose of defending yourself). Just passing along what they teach. IF I ever have to go to court (and I hope I'll never be in the position to have to shoot), that'll be part of my defense (that's how the state approved CCW trainer instructed me). Not saying it’ll work, but 20 years of Mil service showed me there’s reasons they teach certain things, and (even if I didn’t listen when I was young) it’s usually a good, sound reasoning behind it, especially when you have to react without much time to think out every detail (which is why we train and prepare). But local laws differ, so I might be wrong