StrangerDanger

The laserlyte unit looks ok. I haven't used it though. Expect it to scar up your magazine tube where it mounts. I'd try to source additional fasteners since they tend to get tore up from constant removal. Posting pictures here is a pain. You cannot just post a link to the photo or it will send the message to the moderator, which is an abyss of despair. Once you have a URL link to a photo, you must put [ img ] URL here [ /img ] No spaces within the brackets. Now to be a bigger pain, if the URL contains a banned phrase such as, eyephone or P S 3, it will reject it.

Nickel Boron coating looks similar in color to NP3 or NP3+, it doesn't have the teflon additive in it though. It's a harder surface finish. It's really slick and easy to clean. It's the same as FailZero. The high spots on the pistons are what actually make contact with the barrel assembly. The grooves and are there to trap the carbon. The angled cuts are like cutters that shave away anything that builds up inside the barrel assembly. All the lose carbon you find inside the handguards is carbon that has been scraped away during cycling.

Good looking Sig. I agree. NiB might actually be better since it's a harder finish than NP3. I'd love to get a spare set of pistons; but the price for them is insane. Cleaning the pistons is overrated anyway. They're self cleaning. Excess carbon is scraped off and ends up on the inside of your handguards. Looks like we have the same counter top.

The reason lubing the pistons isn't recommended is because it causes a lot of smoke and the lubricant will be burned into carbon. I guess it depends on the Frog Lube. It won't hurt to try to see if it is easier. The only real solution around this is to coat the pistons in NP3 or NiB so you can just wipe the carbon build up off.

Ownership will be determined based on when you conduct your background check unfortunately.

It's just a crappy 55 round Blackhawk bandolier. It's good for a grab and go situation where you wouldn't have time to put on belt clips or even your shoes in the middle of the night.

It's not a big pack, so there isn't too much in it. The bottom zipper accesses the same compartment as the top. So I put the med pack at the bottom so it is easy to access. Stupid me has needed the med kit quite a few times during our adventures. From stupid cactus falling over on me to removing bee stingers, it certainly gets its use. The outer hard case is a case I picked up from some military issue laser safety glasses. They were garbage, but I put my Oakley's or my GPS in it to keep it accessible and crush proof. With the glasses, I stow them in a microfiber bag, then put them into the plastic container. There are a bunch of molle attachment points on the bag, but I never bothered to buy any pouches. I could see a value in putting some sort of administrative pouch on the exterior panel to access some essentials like tweasers. I do have a rocket flare in there that would be nice if it was stowed in an exterior pouch. Just never bothered to order one. The only thing bad about this particular bag is it doesn't have a waist strap. So all the weight ends up being on your shoulders. It can also bounce when moving quickly. It's certainly meant to only be a day pack at best. When we do hikes, the purpose is multifaceted. We play a game called geocaching to get us out to new areas and to learn land nav skills. We don't bother with the in city caches. We go after the back country caches. We take the guns along for protection and also for physical conditioning. Learning to carry a weapon for 8 miles over rough terrain is much different than slinging up to stand at the range. My favorite ones are to do the caches at night so your terrain navigation skills is much harder. Much of the terrain out this was is referred to as Mount Doom or Mordor due to the rough fractured earth terrain of the Mojave.

When I go hiking out here in the Mojave, this is my usual load out. The only thing not shown is my California Competition belt mounted shell holders. I have the 6 round versions since my hands are pretty big. I usually just grab four at a time though. I also carry a pistol and its spare magazines. I also carry a big ass Spartan blade IWB, with just the handle exposed in appendix carry position on my left side. Funny story, carrying the knife there pushed me to hit the gym to lose a little gut that was pressing against the handle. I have a pretty light Eagle Industries pack. I have a med kit in it, along with various lightweight supplies like batteries, some food, spare socks, wet naps (toilet paper), usually a box or two of ammunition, and some water. Depending on the time of year, I change out some cold weather apparel. I usually have my RMJ Tactical Hawk stowed in the area meant for a hydration pack. I try to keep the pack under 10 pounds. This year I bought a TAD Stealth Hoodie for winter wear. The pocket arrangements have been great. Matched with the fact that I put my eyephone5 in a Lifeproof case, I'm pretty much waterproof with all my gear. I usually stow my phone, Surefire and GPS in the jacket pockets. While that vest looks functional, I hate the mall ninja look honestly. Not a huge fan of vests to begin with due to the extreme temperatures I usually deal with. Plus, when you bulk up with equipment, you feel like a ninja turtle running around. The added weight and mass really restrict how fast you can take cover or even run your ass off. My 1.5 mile times drop from 9:46 to like 11+ depending on shoe and clothing weight alone. Add a pack, weapon and ammo and I'd probably be up around 14 - 15 minutes...

I've been thinking about giving one of these rigs a try: http://originalsoegear.com/coprig.html I like how the cards are stacked in layers. I currently use some California Competition speed loaders that are belt mounted. They are probably the fastest system available. They're faster than even side saddles since one grab can load multiple rounds. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IaElhPSONF8 Video plus eye candy.

I've disassembled almost every portion of the Benelli M4 except for the ARGO plugs and the ejector. I do not believe that pin is part of the M4.

Here is a link to the FFT components: http://freedomfightertactical.com/products-page/922r-compliant-trigger-parts/the-freedom-fighter-tactical-922r-compliant-trigger-package/ Yes, you can use any combination of the trigger components with each other. I personally use the Geisselle hammer and the FFT hammer and disconnector. The FFT hammer is well made, however I did have a few minor concerns with it. After several hundred rounds, the face of the FFT hammer was starting to show some gouging. This was rather minor and didn't affect performance, but my concern was long term durability. The stock and Geisselle hammer had never shown this type of wear. It may simply be the softer NP3 finish on the FFT hammer that is wearing. I felt more comfortable leaving the Geisselle hammer in place. Given how difficult it is to find a Geisselle hammer, I would have no problem with just installing the FFT unit. When it comes to the hammer, you're mainly after a 922® compliance part. Same goes for the disconnector. However, the FFT trigger is an upgrade over the OEM unit. Your trigger pull will be lighter and smoother. The grease shown is Brian Enos' Slide Glide. One tube of it will probably last me four years. I like to use it on sears. It stays where I put it through several hundred rounds. Usually for sears, I use the standard viscosity type.

paladinjme is correct about the hammer/trigger in the last photograph. Attached are a few more comparison shots of the various trigger group components.

I've used a 12 gauge tornado brush on my M4 for 12,000 rounds without any issues whatsoever. It works well for removing lead deposits after shooting a bunch of slugs.

You're in trouble!

As others have stated, it's mainly a 922® compliant part. However, I have found that the machining and material choice for the Geisselle unit to be superior to the OEM model. There is less wiggle present in the Geisselle hammer. This is comforting when you're aware of just how little holds the hammer in place. There is no trigger safety in the Benelli M4, so if the hammer fall for whatever reason, it will discharge. Hammer and trigger engagement. The FFT hammer is also well made. I prefer the Geisselle unit though.

Thanks, I pretty happy with the way it is setup now. I like how lightweight it is. The finish on it has been terrible since the day I got it. The anodizing appears to be burned on the receiver. I like the earth tones on weapons. It'll certainly be unique looking. The primar purpose for sending it in is for the NiB treatment. A friend had his Benelli M4's bolt carrier done in NiB last month. The action is significantly smoother as a result. There is less hang up on the hammer. When cycling the action, you can barely feel the bolt press the hammer down. The pistons will be vastly easier to clean. I should just have to swirl them in my dunk tank to remove all the fowling. Having select portions of the trigger group done will aid in cleaning and smoothness. I'm expecting a marginal increase in cyclic action from the work. Mainly from the NiB coated receiver extension, less drag on the hammer and less friction between the bolt carrier's rails and the receiver. I've been known to double tap faster than the m4's action. Which leads to the dreaded hammer down condition with a live round in the chamber. Slowing down has been my corrective action, but if I have the follow up shot sighted in, why wait? It's like cheating with the Aimpoint T1!

I never cared for barrel or mag clamps. It goes against the tool free design of the M4.

I busted mine off too after 20,000 rounds. Seems to be an issue with the M121. Try contacting Benelli. Even out of warranty, they've been known to do repairs or replace broken parts.

Here is a shot of the Mesa Tactical rear sling mount for the collapsible stock. It's okay at best. I dislike how far the post sticks out. This causes the weapon to hang away from you when hanging by just the sling. I've been working on a solution for this though. I'd like to mount a flush mounted sling mount into the grip above and to the right of where the Mesa sling mount is. Basically insetting it into the pistol grip where the receiver extension passes through. There are some issues though. There isn't a lot of clearance around the receiver extension. Also, the collapsible stock when fully collapsed would interfere with the mount unless the tail of the stock was modified. This would be a lot of work. One of the issues is the inner surface of the pistol grip is concave. So mounting a flat surface against it would require some specialized tooling. To do it right, you'd need a backface cutter to level it out. Mounting to the tail piece of the collapsible stock is an option. It would be pretty easy to mount a flush fitting QD mount to the cheek rest of the collapsible stock. The plastic is plenty strong for civilian use. For the front sling mount, take a look at this mount I put together. It's not complete yet since I'm waiting for the actual QD sling mount to be delivered. I took a BLAM4 mount, drilled out the alignment hole to 0.5", chopped off the existing sling mount and cut the excess off the steel mount. I filled the threaded hole with epoxy, then filed all the sharp edges down. When the QD mount arrives, it'll fit right into the half inch hole, then I'll dimple the back side of the bracket for the stand off tensioner screws to prevent the mount from spinning. To keep it from rusting, I sent the bracket off to be Cerakoted black.

10" is kind of short for that. Do you know if it takes regular Surefire tape switches? Surefire makes a bunch of different lengths, even up to 40" long. I looked at the setup, if I was going to go this route, I'd cut the pressure switch into the pistol grip. Even with a collapsible stock I'd do it. The grip core is only like 45 bucks. You'd end up with momentary control of the laser via your strong hand. Modifying the stock to accept the switch is pretty easy. It is time consuming to do right though. I probably worked on mine for four hours.

Is the tape switch on the EOTech long enough to reach all the way to the BLAM4? Also, do you have a cable routing plan? i made this mount for the M4 a few years ago. It gave me momentary control over my light. I could envision a method of routing your EOTech's switch in a similar manner. Then keeping your weapon light's activation controlled via your support hand. You'd be making essentially a CTC laser grip. The rubber grip sleeve then pressed over the switch. You couldn't even tell it was there.

Thanks. The color is definitely different. It looks different under different lighting conditions. I think I'm going to color fill all the markings black for contrast. I'm still looking for a company that will Cerakote my lights and optics. I'd like the entire M600c except the activation button to be done in burnt bronze. I have two Surefire X300 Ultra's that would look good if the body was burnt bronze. The activation switch and the plastic mounts would be left black. The two Aimpoint T1's would be done so the mounts and the body are burnt bronze. The LaRue release lever, adjustment and intensity knobs would be left black. I'm doing a third rifle at the same time. It's a 16" Noveske NSR. I was considering sending my MRP, but ran out of room in my box!

You can trim a few coils if needed. Many shells are a little longer than their spec, so getting the last shell in might be tough or impossible.

Hookster might still have his for sale.