StrangerDanger

http://shop.battlearmsdevelopment.com/2-BAD-ASS-ST-AMBI-SAFETY-SELECTOR-SHORT-THROW-45-BAD-ASS-ST.htm You don't have to change your firing grip to return the selector to safe. There is a small stainless pin that needs filed off to fit in a standard lower. Three minute job with a small file. If you engage the safety when you move, this is a huge improvement.

Quite nice. VLTOR VIS with a Noveski switch block and a Noveski lower? Is the can you're getting going to be one of the over the barrel models? Did you photochop the roll marks, or is it that non-descript? Do yourself a favor and get one of the BAD ASS 45 degree angle selectors. The short throw levers are the preferred setup on the 45 degree model. They're easy to mod to fit a standard lower. The ergonomics are night and day over the 90 degree selectors.They're a perfect fit for the Geissele trigger packs. The M16/M4/AR15 has come a long way even as recently as the past decade. If it is finicky and unreliable in poor conditions, there is something wrong with it. All proper builds should also have a spare parts kit and tools to address random failures. Any weapon you actually use will fail at some point in time. Fortunately, I don't think Unobtanium is a double digit IQ inbred Contra conscript. If you're going to get into caliber pissing matches, you might as well skip the AK all together and go to the Mosin Nagant. In most Stateside events, even unloading 308 rounds inside a common US structure is dangerous. The .223 with appropriate ammunition will limit its penetration to a significant degree.

Thanks, you too. I'll be working as usual. Working as an enforcer for the Militant Wing of the Salvation Army is rough. Stev

Surefire can for sure. Fun to shoot in the backyard!

The SideArmor won't damage your LaRue mount, even the one with the sight channel cut down the center. I've used one personally. The SideArmor rail sits slightly higher than the factory rail. So your cheek weld will be slightly different. Without the sight channel, the rail will limit your FOV through the ghost ring sights. Figure 40 - 50 percent of the bottom of the ghost ring will be obscured. I ended up removing mine for weight savings and went with a carriercomp top rail. Plus the carriercomp rail is the same height as the factory rail. Surprisingly, the true spec picatinny rail doesn't obscure the iron sights at all.

I'm guessing something suppressed. Maybe a SBR of some sort. It just better not be a Trijicon bow sight. After all the hype they gave about having a revolutionary new product, I kicked them right in the balls at SHOT last year for it.

Personally, I would not sell a firearm that was violating the 922 imported parts restrictions. I would return it to stock form and sell the carriercomp tube separately. Or, add the carriercomp hammer and follower to put it in compliance and sell it as such. Just a friendly suggstion.

Good deal even at BIN price. The shipping is a bit of a rape though. They're all top shelf parts.

What a rape. Do you have the screws and washers OP? Kips will not come with them. I sourced a set from users here several times for 20 dollars. Kip told me November for more rails. It is certainly worth the wait. The factory rail isn't worth two dead flies, let alone $150+.

Ugh. I spent countless hours as a kid cleaning that cosmoline crap off of surplus rifles with nothing but rags and solvent. Working with high dram slugs is to be expected. Lower power rounds would probably have choked.

I've seen more on this forums weapons.

This is a retarded good deal. I can't believe it has lasted this long.

I've bought multiple sets of these screws here from users who no longer needed them. For their trouble, I paid them 20$ shipped for the fasteners and washers. If you want to step up the quality of your M4, source yourself a carriercomp top rail. Kip at carriercomp saidd he would have more in some time in November. He didn't say what year though.

That's a whole lot of internet pron right there!

180 might not be worth it if you already have a full length magazine tube, but if you have the 5 round limited tube that all new M4's come with, it is worth considering. Did you buy yours used? Full length magazine tubes on the M4 will hold seven 2 3/4" shells, or six 3" shells. Plus one in the chamber and one on the shell elevator.

Now for some full length magazine tube porn. This is a carriercomp titanium magazine tube. I had a factory Benelli extension previously, it sucked dong compared to the full length tube. It was heavier. Not 922 compliant. Finish was terrible. It would loosen during shooting sometimes. Harder to install the spring with the extension since the spring would hang on the joint between the two tubes. The factory extension was expensive too. I bought mine for 70 dollars new back in 2004. I sold it used in 2009 for 150 dollars. Factory Benelli Extension Carriercomp Titanium full length Magazine Tube.

Now that the removal is complete, it is time to reinstall your new full length magazine tube. Test fit your magazine tube into the receiver. Make sure that the threads are clean and they do not hang up during seating. You may reapply locktite to your new magazine tube if you wish. I personally forgo this option so I can clean the weapon better. I simply tighten the tube down very tight by hand. It is much easier to clean the receiver if you can remove the magazine tube. Once you have tightened your new full length magazine tube. Insert your follower down the magazine tube. Then install your magazine spring. Then compress the magazine spring, and install the Magazine Spring Retaining Cap. This is best to do with snap ring pliers. Reassemble your weapon and function test it. Ensure that the weapon can now seat seven 2 3/4" shells or six 3" shells in the magazine tube. All in all, this job sounds harder to do than it really is.

Once you've cleaned up all the locktite from the receiver, it should look like this.

Front face of the Forearm Retaining Band #69 Rear face of the Forearm Retaining Band #69 Note the raised portions on the Forearm Retaining Band #69. They interface with the front of the receiver. They act as a locator and to reduce movement.

As you can see, the receiver will look nasty once you get the magazine tube removed. The white powder is the pulverized locktite. Flush the receiver out with BreakFree to remove the bulk of the debris. Use acetone and a wire brush to remove the remaining locktite from the receiver threads. Here is the magazine tube #122 removed from the receiver. You need to recover the Forearm Retaining Band #69 (gigity). The Forearm Retaining Band #69 is a slip fit part that will simply pull off of the Magazine Tube #122.

Now, get out your heatgun. I bought a cheap unit from Home Depot. It is a 1000 watts and does the job very well. It actually was enough to remove the receiver extension from my M4. You want to apply your heat at the base of the magazine tube #122 and on the aluminum receiver. The heat will penetrate into the threaded area of the receiver and begin breaking down the factory locktite. How long you will have to apply heat will depend on how much locktite put on your weapon and how strong of a heatgun you have. Typically, it takes about ten minutes before you will see the area around the magazine tube and receiver start to smoke. This smoke is the locktite melting and burning off. You should twist from the end of the magazine tube. The tube will be warm, but shouldn't be too hot to touch. Attempt to twist the magazine tube from the receiver every few minutes. You do not need a lot of strength. The goal is to break the locktites bond, and the tube will simply unscrew with very little effort. If it still won't budge, keep applying heat in five minute intervals. Do not use a strap wrench. You will be applying a dangerous amount of torque with it. In the multiple M4's I've done, the tube will slowly start to untwist like if you were twisting through thick glue. Usually it will stop turning after about 1/16 of a full rotation. So keep applying heat. This will repeat itself several times before the tube will finally fully unscrew.

Hi all: I figured I'd compile a basic pictorial for the new users regarding the removal of the magazine tube to install a full length tube. I had snapped some photographs back when I did mine that might help some of the newer guys to get the job done. This tutorial will span several posts due to the number of pictures posted limit that this forum has. First, here is a schematic of the weapon we will be working on. To begin, unload the weapon's chamber and empty the magazine. Field strip the weapon. Remove the trigger pack, bolt carrier group, barrel assembly and even the stock. You should be left with a receiver with its recoil extension and its magazine tube attached. Now, disassemble the magazine tube #122. Unscrew the tube limiter. The tube limiter is not shown in the schematic. The factory bolt handle #39 can be used to pull the spring retainer cap #72 from the end of the magazine tube #122. You may also use snap ring pliers. Be careful when removing the spring retainer cap #72, the magazine spring #79 is under spring tension. Cup your hand over the end of the magazine tube #122 as you remove the spring retainer cap #72 to capture the magazine spring #79. Once the magazine spring #79 has been removed, tip the receiver downward to allow the magazine follower #76 out. Now, I like to put my receiver in a vice to make the job much easier on myself. I used balsa wood strips this time between the receiver and the vice. I avoided using a rag because I was worried that it might start a fire when heating the receiver. This was probably overkill since the heat stays pretty localized to the area of the receiver with the threads in it. The rest of the receiver will get hot, but nowhere near the temperature required to start a fire. You do not want to squeeze the receiver very tight. Aluminum receivers can twist rather easily. If done right, you won't be applying much torque to remove the magazine tube anyway. I flushed out the receiver with BreakFree Powder Blast solvent to remove much of the oil inside the receiver. My concern was that it might start smoking during the heating process. At this point, I reinstalled the trigger pack and the bolt carrier group. The reasoning was the trigger pack might add some rigidity to the receiver. Having the bolt carrier group present won't hurt, but probably won't help much either honestly in hindsight.

Perhaps the design is slightly different between the X400 rail section mount and the Scout series? Or were you mounting directly to the side rails? Looking at the pictures below, it appears the Scout mount rides closer to the rail. I have two Scout offset mounts, both of them are the same dimensions. I don't mind the modifications. It pulls the light close to the center line of the weapon. The X300 and X400 are pretty bulky compared to the Scout series. Plus the laser of the X400 would be a real PITA to sight in with it mounted at a 45 degree angle.

What it comes down to is I have to slow down before taking my follow up shot or I risk boning myself. I buy high dram stuff to practice with these days to simulate buckshot recoil events. Buckshots a little pricey to shoot as much as I like to. I find myself listening to the cyclic action to determine when it is safe to pull the trigger again. We had some moving targets for a while, and sometimes you weren't sure if you really got a solid hit on the target. So you were wanting a follow up shot to make sure it was enough to incapacitate the simulated target. Sweeping between multiple targets usually gave the action enough time to fully cycle before the next target was lined up. The magnitude of the issue is minimal. I've never heard anyone else even mention encountering it. Previously I thought there was something wrong with the weapon, that's why it went to Benelli. It wasn't a complete waste of time, they replaced the barrel with the 11707, ARGO plugs and pistons, gave me new handguards and an entire new bolt carrier group. The odometer on my M4 just rolled over 13,000 rounds, so I've gotten pretty quick with it over the years. Earlier this year I replaced the entire recoil tube assembly along with a new spring and plunger. It has a stout Wolff spring in the magazine tube, so it feeds great. The only thing that is really unfamiliar territory for me is inside the trigger group. It's done it before and after the carriercomp/geisselle hammer install too. I had wondered if it was a worn hammer hook previously, but it isn't the issue at all. It is the fact that the disconnector doesn't disconnect once the shell elevator drops. Anyone can simulate it with their weapon. When I had a GG&G bolt handle, I could hear the difference in how slow the action was cycling just with it installed. I've even considered nickel boron coating parts in the weapon to try to speed up the action speed to act as a bandaid fix to the issue. If I make it cycle faster, the failure rate would be reduced. I was thinking about coating the recoil tube on the inside, the carrier, bolt and hammer. I'd rather not slow down. I like to walk a double tap of 12 gauge up a target, center mass. I use the push pull shotgun technique to control recoil. With my left hand, I'm squeezing the M80 rail, and pushing forward. While my right hand is pulling the weapon firmly into my shoulder. My left arm acts as a shock absorber and minimizes muzzle climb. I aggressively lean in on the weapon during firing. With the Aimpoint T1, it's like cheating anyway. With the weapon firmly seated against my shoulder, and minimal muzzle climb, the dot remains on target within combat accuracy.