StrangerDanger

Asked the seller if it is a older or newer 11703. The older ones like my burnt bronze one take a lot of work to bring up to current specs. They came with the dreaded 4 port barrels and neutered receiver extensions that won't permit a collapsible stock to function.

The Ava Tactical Mount is even better on the SBS since there is less opportunity for barrel shadow. Check them out here: http://www.avatactical.com/gallery

I see them go on the equipment exchange of ar15.comcfor 1500-1600 shipped. They’re usually 11707’s. Sometimes with aftermarket items.

That's the correct model number for a NP3 model.

Be absolutely certain it is an NP3 plated model. Several have been misrepresented to buyers.

If you tightened the old Ava Tactical mount beyond the recommended torque spec, you cause a deformation in the barrel that is visible in the chrome lining. The barrels are very thin. Allowing the barrel to move and flex unmolested is better too. During high speed video of the barrels, they flex significantly during the firing cycle. It can also prevent wear marks from the mount on the barrel.

Looks like poor adhesion to the link. It doesn't appear to be scraped off due to cycling. I can't tell by the picture if it is rust. You should contact Benelli and they will probably make it right. Any weapon should be well cleaned and lubricated when you first get it. Usually the factory puts more of a preservative type of oil on them for long term storage.

How thick of a plating is it? When I had Nickel Boron applied to a set of pistons, it increased their diameter and I was forced to fit them to the barrel assembly. My experience with NP3+ on the pistons has been better. I guess they're thinner of a surface finish.

NFA violations such as building an illegal short barreled rifle tend to get more play than 922® compliance issues. I’m glad he met a level headed agent that wasn’t out for heads. My dealings with the ATF have been pleasant and they are generally pretty helpful. The one I interviewed with for my FFL license was very friendly and is happy to take a call to clear up a question. I’m sure there are jerks out there but that’s like in any industry. These kind of jerks tend to ruin lives though. For every law law that is created, a criminal is created. I’m not happy to hear of such burecratic nightmares in Alaska. I guess I had always hoped it was one of the last refuses of natural law away from government oversight. I’d have to say Arizona has less oversight than what you’ve reported. There are game wardens, but they are far and few between. Every day I check my properties 4K surveillance cameras and watch the mule deer and elk wander through my wash looking for grass. I think I could lure one in to my garage if I wanted!

Especially being supported by a steel barrel at the front and center. You’re right though, the receiver would likely deform before the magazine tube did. I’ll send Marcy an email tonight. Sounds like a fun test. I’d like to test their Cerakote adhesion too.

Maybe I can get Marcy to send me a botched one for destruction testing. As protected and supported as the magazine tube is, I think you’d have a hard time doing any structural damage. Paint or finish scuffing? Sure.

You won’t be denting a titanium magazine tube. I had a video where they were driving over a piece of the same diameter tube stock with a truck with zero deformation.

Awesome work. That’s aggressive! Looks good too.

I sold a few for like 35 bucks on gunbroker. It’ll sit for months before someone bites. It’s usually someone who’s going the 14” route and had tossed their original one.

I’ve been through about a thousand slugs and buckshot rounds since I put the Limbsaver together. No issues feeling the extension or feeling a deflated void. Youre way over thinking the fastener and collapsible stock tensile strength issue. The OEM screws hold just fine in a plastic stock. If you’re really concerned about it, send the screws and hardware in to Robar and have them plated in NP3+ If you’re doing daily Seal team ocean water exposure. On my H2O Extreme builds, this is done since the parts are going for plating anyway.

How many hours did that take?

Great thread update. I’ve made about 25-30 or the pads with the adapter and the 10111 for the collapsible stock. Be very careful when selecting your fastener length. If it is too long, it will bottom out in the blind hole. If you tell any resistance, stop. These fine screws will break off easily. I would not use aluminum screws at this size. The steel or stainless are fine. Use Loctite blue 243 to deal with the dissimilar material adhesion. M2’s pad looks like it’s solid rubber inside? On the 10111 it is a hollow void once past the plastic back plate.

I’d take Socomguy’s tubes over the oem ones any day.

I did the same thru the plastic on some handguards before we had all the current options, I was always worried it was going to rip out the guard. If it were braced from the opposite side it would be a lot safer.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1371110 Numrich has some in stock. Brownells is out at the moment.

Was your issue with the screws or just how the base fits on the sling slot? It’s certainly not perfect, but I never had a functional issue with it.

The Limbsaver is what you want. It’ll reduce perceived recoil by about 40% in my personal estimated. Limbsaver will claim 70%, but that’s wishful thinking. You have to modify the unit heavily to work on the collapsible stock in all three positions. You need the Noveske adapter plate and the Limbsaver 10111 pad. You’ll need some fasteners from the hardware store to mount the brack to the collapsible stock. I believe the link above goes to a post where I list the sizes. You have to cut a section of the bracket out to permit the receiver extension to pass through and in to the buttpad. You have to drill out a hole in the base of the pad to permit the receiver extension to pass into as well.

What didn’t you like about the IWC Mount? Be careful with that QD Mount through the cheek rest. That plastic isn’t very thick and it can crack or deform if you’re hard on it. The only real support comes from those three screws through the top. Agreed on the sling plates on the field and pistol grip stock. Their sizing is retarded and meant for carrying it like ofnyour were slinging up in world war 2.

I’d definitely like to see that. Steve Rose does them as well. His are pretty aggressive too. He usually leaves his in the white with no ill effects.

I've black filled markings before on some that I had NP3'ed and Cerakoted. It comes out pretty cool looking. If the client is in for it, I'll see what looks best. I have these lacquer sticks that you melt and push in to the low areas, then wipe off the excess with a rag with acetone on it. The NP3+ won't fill much in. It's very thin plating. I don't even notice much tolerance change on the tight parts like the pistons. Other plating methods causes issues here. I think places like TTI have changed how much the elevator extends down over their production runs. I've noticed several stick down further than others as well. I haven't seen enough of the FFT elevator's to comment on theirs. Having the elevator can be a snag hazard I suppose. I haven't noted it happening to me. It's a balance on how fast you want to go. Sometimes a raced out design can have a few draw backs. Being able to get more of your hand in there really does improve loading and unloading speed. Matched with the extended shell carrier and the A&S trigger frame, and you have a solid speed platform. I have a couple A&S frames coming back from Robar soon too. Can't wait to put my NP3+ M4 back together. I've been trying to get some of the nickel boron plated Trijicon RMR mod 2 optics for these, but they've been back ordered for months. I'm doing another experiment where I had the bodies and tailcap of a Surefire light plated in NP3+, we'll see if it causes any electrical signal issues. I'm just going to have the lamp head Cerakoted titanium since they're practically impossible to disassemble for plating.