StrangerDanger

Rm01 and rm06 with 3.5moa dots seem to be the choice models for the M4 on a Scalarworks rail. Having control over the dot's power level is nice. The autogain feature works pretty well though. You can let the rm06 use the autogain feature as well. It comes down to if you want buttons on the side of the optic and the ability to shut the optic off. I personally leave mine on all the time.

Shows what I know about the Nova!

If you're the type that actually uses the safety, then it is a worthwhile upgrade. Being able to disengage the safety with your trigger finger without breaking your firing grip is a huge improvement. Basically you can feel the nub poking into your trigger finger if the safety is engaged. Pressing the safety inward with the inside of your trigger finger around the second knuckle is nice. Sometimes you have to modify the spring weight slightly to make it a little easier to press. They're all pretty similar in design, but I like the shape of the DMW a little better than the TTI one. The safety is kind of a PITA to change without the proper tools.

Congratulations. Sounds like you have a M1014 unless someone swapped the barrels. What serial number is it? It'll say m1014 in it if it is one. The only real issue with that model is the neutered receiver extension that doesn't permit the collapsible stock from functioning. I have outlined methods on how to replace this part though.

Yes, or if you've chosen poorly and bought a Tacstar side saddle.

It's a PITA without the proper tools. Even with this magnabit, it isn't super easy to compress the spring. Without the magnabit, you can try to compress the spring with a punch, and insert an alignment pin through the retention pin hole. It isn't going to be easy to compress the spring with a dental pick while you tap the pin in.

You can do just the safety.

Another update: Benelli has been shipping out M4's with plastic trigger housings for about a year and a half now. There is only one area that is different for the disassembly guide. The carrier plunger inserts into a washer that is inserted into the side of the trigger group. After removing the carrier plunger/spring assembly, you can pull the washer out easily. Naturally there is a lot less casting marks on the plastic housing compared to the old aluminum ones.

I'd probably cut the open end.

I trim 1 to 1.5 coils off the safety spring to make it a lot easier to disengage with your trigger finger. I don't care for the OEM safety either. I like the DMW safety a little more than the TTI one. I'm not really sure why though.

I'm interested in the front sight and the Xrail safety too.

http://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/receiver-action-parts/receiver-action-hardware/springs/retaining-spring-sku301000495-23647-50291.aspx Here is the part you need. I would bet money they had a Tacstar shell carrier installed. Installing it goes, receiver, this spring, the spacer, the retaining ring and then the trigger pin. Getting the retaining ring out is my least favorite part of disassembling the entire M4. I'd rather torch out the receiver extension than deal with that POS. Expect some swearing and unanswered prayers. You pretty much have to work a pick behind the ring as you're trying to compress the snap ring. Good luck.

There are a few different ways this can occur on this platform. You need to disassemble your bolt carrier and ensure that your firing pin is not broken and creating a slam fire situation. If the bolt carrier checks out and the firing pin is moving freely, move on to the next step. Pull out the trigger pack and perform the following safety test; 1. Place the weapon on safe. Pull the trigger. Did the hammer fall? No? Move on to step 2. 2. Take the weapon off safe. Control the descent of the hammer when you pull the trigger. Did the hammer fall? Yes? Move on to step 3. 3. With the trigger still pulled to the rear, re-cock the hammer. Did the hammer engage the disconnector or did it fall? If the hammer is held by the disconnector, release the trigger. Did the hammer slip off the disconnector and engage the trigger sear? Or did the hammer fall completely? Repeat this step several times to ensure that it is functioning correctly. Beyond this, you're getting into more difficult to diagnose territory and you might be best served by sending it back to Benelli. You can look at your sear contact points and look for modification/damage to components. You could try replacing parts and components randomly, but this isn't an efficient method unless you have those parts on hand or another like weapon.

Outstanding pair. I really like that SBS.

I have a brand new carriercomp 5 round tube for sale if interested. Skip the wait.

All, I just received a M4 in the mail to work on and found that it had a plastic trigger guard housing instead of the aluminum ones. This was on a 11715 model too. The plastic mold markings indicate it was produced around March of 2015. Kind of a disappointing production change.

Something a little different. Just got these parts in on Friday along with a 100 other parts. The bottom bolt, extractor, extractor retaining pin, firing pin, cam pin and firing pin retainer were coated in NP3+. These components had several thousand rounds on them prior to refinishing. You can hear the difference when letting the bolt slam shut. This is a carriercomp titanium magazine tube that was coated in NP3+. Robar claims the process doesn't adhere to the titanium very well. In some degree, they are correct, the finish isn't cosmetically perfect in various areas. Naturally this tube is bound for an H20. In this same batch, I had a receiver extension coated in NP3+. I swapped it out of one of my personal M4's. Instant change in the way the action feels. It slid a notch closer to feeling like the action is riding on ball bearings. One could argue that reliability would be increased when firing lower dram rounds as the friction coefficient is lowered. Couple a receiver, receiver extension, recoil plunger, bolt carrier, bolt, bolt cam, link, link pin, hammer, breech latch, trigger bushing, and bolt coated in NP3+; and you'll have the smoothest cycling action achievable. Not to mention incredibly easy to clean. I'm receiving a client's 11715 later today. It's going to be fully disassembled down to the smallest pins and springs (everything that isn't riveted in place at least.) Even the ARGO plugs will be disassembled for coating. All items including accessories will be packaged and sorted by group and sent to Robar for coating in NP3+.

I'm too lazy to go to the garage to see the brands and types. I find the M4 does well with even cheap buckshot and slugs. They pattern well at least. They'll pile into a paper plate size target at 15 yards. I've got around 5000 rounds of those Remington cheap buckshot rounds that Walmart sells.

Nope.........

Good job! I've been buying these for clients thru Brownells lately. Then buying the RMR's on Amazon.

Interesting information, thank you.

Thank you. The first pass of the file is the hardest one to do -- intentionally damaging the finish of an expensive weapon. I considered waiting until I got a mill, but figured the hand file would be slower and a little more controlled. With a decent file that is cleaned every minute or two, it cuts pretty evenly. A couple layout lines and you have a solid visual reference to where you need to remove material. Polishing bits on the dremel work well along with sanding by hand with various grits of sandpaper. This M4 will eventually get sent to Robar to get turned into an H2O+ model. I have weighed if I want to do this modification to my burnt bronze/nickel boron M4. I'm leaning towards no since I don't want to mess up its finish.

That's the access port for the pin that holds the shell stop.

Good deal. As low traffic this site is, it's a great place to sell items.

Good price. I'll ask a guy who might be interested.