benelliwerkes

Titanium FFT shown.

Here are the dimensions for the M4 magazine cap retainer pin (plunger) and spring.

They indeed look sporty.

A little late to the party, but nonetheless, here's an M1 with factory camouflage .......using a heat gun ~3 minutes. [/url

I have the same experience, a brass / bronze brush is useless trying to clean residual loctite from the theads.

I hear what Dan GSR is saying and understand that the torch (only an arm's reach away) is a more direct approach......however, not just on Benelli's, but other more expensive platforms, sometimes patience is a virtue in that the torch can discolor or maim a camouflage surface or an expensive blued surface, whereas a more slow "gentle" approach, albeit less efficient, is a wiser choice in many instances.

As I'm sure you know the red Loctite requires ~ 500 deg F to be degraded. A heat gun rated at 1,000 degrees and, just as useful, is an infrared digital temperature gauge to know when the parts are hot enough to attempt disassembly; often times we use the "smoking" sign to start rotating the parts apart, but sometimes the smoke may appear when the temperature on the loctite may still be 100 deg or more from breaking down. The IR temp gauge let's me know when to start using muscle efficiently to proceed with disassembly. Just because the heat gun is "rated" at a specific temperature does not mean it can get the parts that hot. Finally, for those that are attempting to remove loctited parts, make sure you remove the trigger guard, magazine spring and follower, etc. as they will act as heat sinks making the task even more challenging, not to mention, ruining some parts.

Happy Village......Happy Village.......Happy Village. Just spectatin'.

For those that use the rectangular-styled carrier control button and do not want to mark the receiver gun art, you can cut small strips of electrical shrink tubing and apply with heat gun. Besides protecting the finish, there is added grip when your thumb is applied. Also useful when adding control levers to carbine platforms to protect the finish.

You can also use the 25 mm wrench and scissor jack in the cheek weld to change a flat on your hybrid.

A final thought on punch fabrications........the utility of the punches are easily enhanced by fabricating screwdriver handles to accept the punches.

As for the magazine cap detent removal looks pretty easy.......re-installation is probably a 5 second factory step...with the correct tools and parts. The assembly appears to be housed in a malleable sleeve, which is swaged into the cylindrical hole in the barrel ring; after removal, one could probably fabricate a aluminum / brass / steel tubed sleeve to fit over the assembly and tap in back in place.......the proverbial easier said than done !

I am pretty sure the assembly is going to be similar to the Rem 870; the Brownell tip suggests using a center punch for removal.

Short answer is NO, I have not removed that part either....I believe they are pressed into place, like most other manufacturers assemblies. I'll take a close look later today.

NO, I have not. It is riveted as you say.

Another Benelli application....for using a small "U" shaped compression tool.

Here are some examples of the U or 1/2-U shaped punches for other gun disassembly applications.

1+ Nice illustration SD. When I have disassembled the ARGO, I use "U" or 1/2-U shaped compression punches that are easily fabricated for the task at hand. The need to use such punches to compress a spring in order to install / remove a retaining pin is pretty common in gun assemblies. Use either a full brass punch that has the correct diameter required, or the Brownell style screw on tips that come in Delrin, brass, aluminum etc......all of which are easy to shape to the dimensions necessary. In the case of the ARGO, I use the same punch fabricated for compression of a Mossberg 500 spring.

Very easy. Right hand threads to remove the gas plug. Do you mean to disassemble the gas plug further ? Photo courtesy of Benelli M4 Anatomy Series Manual

I'll see your bump and resurrect this "bump" for your potential answer.Take it to a qualified Benelli gunsmith that is not a blacksmith; FYI Simon is not a blacksmith.

What TruckCop said.

Take it to a qualified Benelli gunsmith that is not a blacksmith; FYI Simon is not a blacksmith.