benelliwerkes

SD, FYI this website is fabulous for tricks and tips on lathe use and other metal working skills.....his internet moniker is "Tubalcain" and has ~MACHINE SHOP TIPS 150+ youtube videos on instructions for metal working. Heres the index to his videos.

Guys, I use a dremel cut-off wheel to reduce the brass punch; mount the punch in vise and slightly under drill the desired drill rod diameter into the brass punch handle; that usually is snug enough when the punch is gently tapped onto the drill rod. On occasion I use some JB Weld 2-part epoxy to bond the drill rod with the brass punch. For the drill rod I use the water-hardened type:WATER HARDENING DRILL ROD | Brownells not the oil-hardened rod. I don't need a lathe to turn the tip of the drill rod for the roll pin punch tip; I chuck the drill rod into a drill press (before installing in the brass punch handle) and rotate it at slow speed and use nice gunsmith file to turn the tip down to the size you desire; there isn't much force on the nipple geometry of a roll pin punch, but if you wanted to re-heat the rod tip to temper / harden and quench it in water. The working diameter of the Wiha punches are ~ 30% longer than the Starrett's.

SD, You can fabricate the length and diameter punches you need very easily. Still will need to use starter punches etc. with the longer pins so you don't bend / break them as you mentioned......sometimes you need to use a series of punches of slightly different lengths to remove a long pin from a tight host hole, otherwise the punches will fail.

Also, the Progressive Machine style are easier to modify for modularity to various attachment platforms.

Stranger, I have tried the California Strippers however I switched over to the Progressive Machine style for tactical training.....I have not found either to be trustworthy to retain the cartridges when you run into something, as they are designed to readily release the cartridges. Between the two shown, the Progressive Machine are cat's meow.

What he said.

A "variety" (pistol - 2 mags / AR- 2 mags / shotgun - 12 shells) Blackhawk Serpa QD mount pack is kept with a full compliment of ammo for the 60 second exit.

Here's a few pack styles I use when going over the horizon.

I couldn't make a stealth inset for the pressure switch on the Blackhawk Knox Recoil stock because there is an a heavy internal spring in the grip that must have clearance to function properly.

You could also use small screws to secure the switch pad to the forearm......here a switch pad is held in place where no rail is present; the "adhesive" pads on most of these switches are woefully inadequate to endure heat or any vigorous handling of the gun, so a screw solution was employed.

You could take a polymer MagPul rail segment and easily sand down rail segments, then use "industrial" strength Velcro (found at the Home Depot etc) to mount the switch.....in the past I have done it by modifying the guard rail as illustrated below.

Are you referring to Action Recoil Spring Retainer ???? From the Benelli M1 & M2 Anatomy Series Manual:

Those stamped sheet metal magazine retainers can be surprisingly STIFF.....and like you said, trying to reduce the circumference of the retainer with application of force to those existing small holes with snap ring pliers, often times, will deform or tear thru the hole in the retainer......leaving you with a screwed up part that still isn't installed ! Been there.

Continued......some might find it useful that the same principle can be applied when trying to install a tight magazine retaining cap that does NOT have holes that could be compressed with internal snap ring pliers.....this illustration just happens to have a retainer with holes. This trick often prevents the marring of parts that is the goal when manipulating the gun art.

Although the installation of the flexible ring is much easier than extraction, the installation task can be performed in a more controlled manner by using a simple hose clamp and compressing the ring slightly smaller than the internal diameter of the receiver extension and then pressing it out of the clamp into position.

SD, I contacted this company today.....Retaining Ring Pliers - Specialty Products & Services | RingMasters LLC..... they even specialize in custom ring pliers !!!! no luck for the style used on the Benelli.....that's why I have resorted to some of these Flinstone looking fabrications.......still searching though.

Continued.........

SD Here are some tools that can be easily fabricated that I have used to remove the flexible rings.

Not to belabor the issue, but here are the recommendations from fastener manufacturers for metric m4 size screws, such as the Benelli rail screws. The above-mentioned 8.5 in-lb of torque is right at mfg. suggestion; the aluminum receiver threads do not tolerate over-torquing steel screws, or screws of slightly incorrect thread pitch.

Make sure the torque screwdriver is calibrated in inch-pounds, not foot-lbs !

As advocated above, not all rail screws that are supplied by vendors are the same as Benelli factory screws......they can appear virtually identical and yet be different enough to screw things up....no pun intended. I use 8.5 in-lbs of torque to set the M4 rail screws, and virtually all pistol grip screws...1911's, Sig aluminum framed etc.....plus a dab of Blue loctite.....haven't stripped one yet. Try setting your torque screwdriver to 8.5 in-lb and feel just how firm it is setting those screws, before adding thread locker. I have tried all the variants of sidesaddles and believe the SideArmor to be the best fabrication. From the Anatomy Series Benelli Manuals.