benelliwerkes

When removing roll pins, particularly if one has not used a proper roll pin punch, the ends of the roll pin can be distorted with small sharp edges that snag on the channel during re-insertion; sometimes, even new roll pins have an edge that needs attention before installation. I mentioned the "toothpick" as a guide for the roll pin; it's simple and most can get access to one. It works in this application because the center of the roll pin is only acting as a axle, about which the carrier control latch rotates, so it is not very tight, just the at its ends where it engages the frame holes that retain it. Most often, the roll pin is engaged with the parts it is holding together, along its entire length, this is where a slave roll pin saves the day. For those that would like to make better slave roll pins fairly simple, I will post a few photos illustrating how to do it.

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................ just a quick note to the regular posters....I noticed that if you desire to continue posting more than 2 photos, you know you need to use another post......however, if you just post the photobucket link into the next post, it will not show photo #3; if you put 10 characters THEN paste your photobucket link, the photo will show up.......just sayin'.

What SD said.......painters tape - 2 layers minimum.....protect your gun art. Proper roll pin punches & roll pin punch holders ("starters").....Brownell's is a good source; Snap-On also has a good set of roll pin punches. Use my tooth pick trick to guide the roll pin; or fabricate a proper sized one from drill rod stock.

No place for untidy when working on your gun art ! As usual, nice clean work space SD......cleanliness next to Godliness.

1+.......usually not an option, except with hand guards styled like his.

Just a thought, but I've used this 3M tape on a few similar projects; the 1" would fit just about right on the backside of the tape switch.

SD, Do you think the tape switch will remain durable tucked in close to the heat source ?

Mostly non-Benelli Projects. Many of the forum regulars know about the Anatomy Series Manual for the Benelli M4 Super90 I developed. As many of you also own non-Benelli firearms you might be interested in one of the other Anatomy Series Manuals available. The highly detailed Manuals vary in length from 15 - 200 pages depending on complexity of the firearm. I will post the Manual titles below, if you would like to know more about any particular one, just PM me.

SD, you'd find my "junk" drawers nicely organized ! The HK's are pain in the A$$ to tinker with....almost none of the accessories coordinate easily with them. Speaking of LaRue, today I just got their short Aimpoint pivot mount (compare the tall LaRue with Aimpoint CompM4S on the above posted Noveske) for the Aimpoint magnifier to use in conjunction with the T-1 on the LaRue H&K short mount ...notice that they two optics are not perfectly co-witnessed on their optical vertical height axis....the pivot is just a tad too tall. The short T-1 mount however does allow the Troy H&K micro sights to co-witness in the lower 1/3 of the T-1 sight picture. Longer story that cannot be shortened; because LaRue knew the T-1 is a parallax-free red dot, you can successfully mount the Aimpoint 3X magnifier on the short pivot mount with the T-1 in this situation, because the magnifier has two independent adjustment screws for windage and elevation, that allow the red dot you see transmitted from the T-1 to be "adjusted" to the center of the magnifier view the operator observes.....the bottom line, what you see thru the magnifier is what you get from the T-1 red dot. This H&K is setup with a modified (since nothing fits HK) Rogers MagWell Grip, Safariland ELS picatinny rail mount for accessories, Rogers collapsible SuperStock has replaced the HK factory collapsible stock.

That would be reasonable substitute for the rear of the receiver QD attachment point; as an alternative to the Magpul / Rogers ambidextrous sling attachment products.

Here's a little project that those owning a U.S. Henry Survival Rifle might like. Some of the shortcomings of the design is that there is no way to carry it with a sling, it's slippery polymer surface, the butt plate is quite easily knocked free dumping the barrel and magazines on the ground / water. Some modifications that enhance functionality and free up your hands to survive. The President of Henry Repeating Arms liked the modifications enough to have his design engineers study how these can be incorporated into the production line; even sent me some nice Henry merchandise ! Apologize for the multiple photo posts, but the 2 photo limit exists.

My new armadillo-getter setup. H&K MR556A1, ACOG 6x48 w/Trijicion RMR; fabricated QD tripod-picatinny rail system.

Noveske N4 10.5 "

I'm in Joel. I have one and it's great, but.....two is one and one is none. Thanks.

Have you considered spraying the contact surfaces of the clamp with PlastiDip ?

Nice photo.

A minor point : The M4 magazine tube can be loose and rotate its position forward a thread pitch or two in length and it really wouldn't matter as the M4 barrel headspace is not dependent on the magazine tube being properly located along its axis with the receiver. The M1 / M2's however, the barrel headspace is indexed off the magazine tube so it is important to mark the alignment before / after magazine tube removal / installation on these models.

As a matter of proper form, one should always press the back of the slide with the thumb when re-holstering any semi-automatic to make sure that it is indeed in battery, that's why you do it with a Glock or M&P or any other that does not have a slide locking mechanism; these guns being ~ 1/8" out of battery will not fire (good to know for self-defense ! and remember when shooting from within a vehicle if you place the muzzle up against a closed window / windshield). It doesn't mean that violent jarring of the gun within the holster, or a debris within the holster could not dislodge the slide from battery. A well maintained recoil spring and attention to form will usually make this concern a non-issue.

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A few more traditional 1911's. I massaged a common Colt Officer Model into a pretty nice package with some upgrades. The history of Charlie Kelsey and his Devel Company makes for good bedtime unsolved gunsmith corporate unsolved murder conspiracy readings. I incorporated his innovative simple modification to allow the 1911 safety to remain active to unload the 1911 in the Officer model; why the feature is not commonplace I can't figure out.

Couldn't agree more. I love the 1911's. I had Wilson Combat build me these two customized fraternal twin guns....Tactical Elite (Government full size ) and Professional Elite (Commander size) models in 2011 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the 1911........just about a year to get them.