M4Whore

First 200 rounds were 00Buck and Slugs. Next 100+ rounds were low brass at 1300fps. After trying different lubes after each cleaning, now it eats anything with 300+ rounds through it. Hope your's won't take as long...

Finally, after shooting 300+ rounds, the beast is able to digest the infamous low steel base Winchester Universal rounds without a hitch. While trying out the supplied Benelli MF-82 oil, Break Free CLP, Remington Oil, different types of grease, I settled on Slip 2000 EWL as the final lubricant used. Of course it could simply be the fact of burning up those first 300+ rounds but at least it’s now reliable with all types of ammunition. [ATTACH=CONFIG]2003[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2003[/ATTACH]

STEEL SHOT: As a general rule when switching from lead to steel shot you would use a choke with one full degree less constriction. If you want a full pattern with steel use a modified choke. If you want a modified pattern with steel use an improved cylinder choke. If you want an improved cylinder pattern with steel use a cylinder or skeet choke. Do not use any choke tighter than modified constriction with steel shot unless the choke is specifically marked for use with steel shot. 00 BUCK: Any choke up to Full. Pattern test each choke for the best results SLUGS: Modified Choke or larger…Again, pattern test for best results

The problem with the inexpensive shells is the fact that the base metal is steel (silver in color) and not brass. The harder steel, being less malleable expands to fill the chamber but does not contract closer to its original size as brass does making it more difficult to extract from the chamber of your barrel. Remington STS or Winchester AA are the best reloadable shells out there. The amount of payload 1oz vs: 1 1/8oz should not make a different. It is the powder charge that makes your gun function. Case in point, 00 Buck and Slugs are 1 oz payloads and should be 100% reliable in your gun. You might also try polishing your chamber with 0000 steel wool wrapped around a wooden dowel and chucked in a drill.

Sorry about the theft. I hope you get it back soon.

Have not used Frog Lube on my Benelli M4 as of yet as I’m still looking for the right combination while breaking it in. After 300 rounds it still won't handle the cheap, low velocity, steel base rounds. After that....Frog Lube it is!

Is it safe? YES! The hammer "spring" is the part being compressed all the time. Some say this will cause a "set" meaning it will be made shorter than if not constantly compressed and possibly made less powerful. Others say go for it... Your choice...

Magazine Block . com (put it all together) Remove Floor Plate, set aside locking plate, install magazine block (epoxy if you wish). Replace Floor Plate (Pop Rivet). If you choose not to use epoxy and save the locking plate, you can always go back to original...

A little pricey but available http://www.44mag.com/product/nhmtg_20_ar15_magazine/223_ar15_magazines

oliviest, I went with the FFL 2 round extention and am 100% satisfied with it. Simple to install and you can always put the weapon back to the stock configuration....

I do believe the firing pin retaining pin has a much smaller stem and the "head" has a flat cut side.

NJ2002, I had the same problem until I was educated on the length of shells! http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php/31663-Magazine-Capacity-Issue!

I have been using these for years in my shotguns. As you say, it makes cleaning barrels easier and much faster!!!

Brownell’s carries them but at this time, they are out of stock. You can backorder this item. Brownell’s # 301-000-558 Mfr Part # 81041 Cost $214.29

It would appear that the "chamber lock" has lugs similar to the bolt head. Guessing the "lugs" mate into the barrel extention and then lock in, effectively blocking the barrel. Why not purchase a "Cable Lock" for under $10.00. After unloading your shotgun and locking the bolt back , place the cable into the receiver from the bottom opening and out the ejection port. Then merely secure the cable to the attached lock and you're good to go...

Try Briley Chokes. They list the "Crio Plus" tubes having the threads starting about 1" below the muzzle. Their "Crio Sport" shows the threads starting right at the muzzle.

gstuke, this may be of some help. http://www.benelliusa.com/parts-and-accessories/choke-tubes.php

Apologies to all! As suggested, I tried some Winchester Super X #6 field loads and was able to load 5 in the tube. Too bad the slugs are too long as that is what I wanted to keep in it at home

@ Hookster, did you mean new to the M4. I've been shooting shotguns for 49 years. Pump, Semi, O/U & SxS and have never had an experience like this. Given the math of 1/8" x 4 = 1/2 ", leaving 2 1/4 left in the tube, the 5th round won't even begin to start. Trying Winchester Super X 1oz slugs. Still looking for a fix. Am I hearing right? The tube is supposed to hold 5 rounds of 2 3/4" shells? Thanks for the feedback...

Just picked up my new in the box M4 today: Looking under “COMMON SPECIFICATIONS” on Benelli’s website it states: “Magazine Capacity: 5 + 1”. I am only able to load (4) 2 ¾” shells into the magazine. A (5th) round won’t even begin to start into the magazine. Am I missing something?

Just received my Briley Extended Choke today in Black Oxide Cylinder. You can't go wrong with www.briley.com Make sure you order the "Mobil Choke" model to fit your M4

Looking at the photo from Benelli's web site, the M2 is wearing a matte finish. Soooo, I would go with the Briley "Black Oxide" finish. If you want the choke tube to stand out and add some contrast, then go with the silver.

Case, the reason I am inquiring about this way of loading is to make the weapon as safe as possible while still retaining a quick loading method. It’s not a matter of “wearing out” the spring but when you have a spring compressed for long periods of time; most springs will take a “set”. That means with time the spring will not expand to its fullest length thereby lessening the power of the spring and possibly cause a misfire. I have no problem with changing out the magazine spring every couple of years but I don’t want to have to take the trigger assembly apart to replace that spring. And just for grins, I would like to know if this can be done. Thanks for your reply.

My current home defense weapon is a Remington 870 with a full magazine, empty chamber and hammer down (uncocked). I have seen how to load the M4 with 5 + 1 + 1 but it seems that the weapon is being stored with the action cocked causing the hammer spring to be compressed. Can the M4 be stored with a full magazine and one on the carrier but with an empty chamber with the hammer down (uncocked) or will pulling the trigger on the empty chamber cause the next round in the magazine to be released causing a possible jam? I know the next round released has nowhere to go but I do not know what will happen to the functioning of the weapon.