HD VIDEO "How to Install Full Length Magazine Tube of M4 Benelli"

[Amsdorf]

I'm aware that there may be other methods for removing and replacing the stock magazine tube on the M4, but this is the one that worked very well for me. The key was patient application of heat, I was probably a tad too conservative for fear of overheating. My advice: be patient and take your time. Just follow the instructions that come with Kip's Carrier Comp tube, and you'll be just fine. If I could do it, frankly, anyone can.

 

Edited September 9, 2012 by Amsdorf

[Sukhoi_fan]

Instead of waving the heat gun all over and around the assembly, the best and most methodical (and safest for someone with zero experience doing this) for applying heat with a heat gun I've noted by far is the one posted by Stranger Danger, i.e. set the heat gun in a fixed position aimed directly at the mag tube (I'm thinking at a point 5-6" from the receiver so as not to apply heat directly to the receiver) which will allow for the heat to flow/migrate back to the threaded portion of the mag tube. Using this method suggested by SD it would allow one to continuously apply a moderate amount of force to unscrew the mag tube (with the receiver cautiously and carefully clamped in the vise without applying an inordinate amount of pressure) while the heat is still being applied (and not cooling off) as the threadlocker releases since one's hands are not busy with the heat gun. With the judicious application of heat as suggested by SD one should not encounter the resistance unscrewing the mag tube as seen in the above video.

 

I still prefer my 'heat bath' method as it is methodical, precise, predictable, and very easily managed (much like SD's method). When I used the heat bath method* (in a heat field generated by a propane space heater, rotating the assembly no closer than 9-10" to the burner and for no longer than FIVE second passes between attempts to unscrew the mag tube) I definitely did not encounter the amount of resistance in the above video, it was much easier to unscrew once I hit the temperature the threadlocker releases at. High resistance = thread locker not fully released - which can occur as a result of the assembly cooling off between handheld heat gun applications.

 

*I went to using 'brute heat' since I'm very familiar with the application of heat to materials and I was NOT happy with my progress with waving the heat gun around the assembly - had I only the heat gun, the natural progression of my attempt at applying heat would have been the fixed position application as suggested by SD. That was very astute of you SD!

[tucker301]

Instead of waving the heat gun all over and around the assembly, the best and most methodical (and safest for someone with zero experience doing this) for applying heat with a heat gun I've noted by far is the one posted by Stranger Danger,

 

 

CLICK HERE

[Amsdorf]

Interesting how the residue looked like a green substance, mine was red.

[KB Fab]

Instead of waving the heat gun all over and around the assembly, the best and most methodical (and safest for someone with zero experience doing this) for applying heat with a heat gun I've noted by far is the one posted by Stranger Danger, i.e. set the heat gun in a fixed position aimed directly at the mag tube (I'm thinking at a point 5-6" from the receiver so as not to apply heat directly to the receiver) which will allow for the heat to flow/migrate back to the threaded portion of the mag tube. Using this method suggested by SD it would allow one to continuously apply a moderate amount of force to unscrew the mag tube (with the receiver cautiously and carefully clamped in the vise without applying an inordinate amount of pressure) while the heat is still being applied (and not cooling off) as the threadlocker releases since one's hands are not busy with the heat gun. With the judicious application of heat as suggested by SD one should not encounter the resistance unscrewing the mag tube as seen in the above video.

 

I concur 100%.

 

This warrants repeating

CLICK HERE

[FLAWLS1]

What happened to your other thread? Great contributions to the Benelli M4 community by Amsdorf & Stranger.

[Amsdorf]

Yup, agree, thanks.

[jaegerbataillon511]

One important thing what StrangerDanger does, is to apply heat at the base of the magazine tube and on the aluminium receiver.

 

The receiver and magazine tube must expand by heat together for taking them apart, otherwise would heat only to the tube expand and jam it in the receiver.

[Sukhoi_fan]

 

The receiver and magazine tube must expand by heat together for taking them apart, otherwise would heat only to the tube expand and jam it in the receiver.

 

Actually, the heat will transfer to the receiver via the threads if one heats the mag tube only and therefore both the receiver and the mag tube will be the same approximate temperate. There will be no substantial heat difference unless one flashes the heat onto the mag tube, a slow and steady heat flow will transfer the heat evenly. IMO, it's all about doing it methodically, SAFELY, predictably and deliberately - rather than the (blind) bull in the china closet approach. I do appreciate the fact that some folks already (think they) know it all and will do it 'their' way regardless.

 

Believe what you want, I have three decades of experience working with heat and materials. I have a very unique insight to the way heat energy flows and its effect on materials based thousands of close observations.

 

ETA: BTW, I'm a certified thermographer if titles mean anything to some people. lol

Edited September 6, 2012 by Sukhoi_fan

[Sukhoi_fan]

Exactly, there's nothing inherently difficult about removing the OEM mag tube. Just be safe, prudent, deliberate, and judicious with the appropriate application of heat and don't be a blind bull in a china closet. Not enough heat could be even worse than too much heat, as one could be tempted to apply an inordinate amount of force to get the mag tube to break out - DON'T DO IT. SD's got it right in his thread on the matter, once you get the threadlocker to release the mag tube should unscrew easily.

[Sukhoi_fan]

Oh how I would love to be a mod and delete all this goddamn nonsense between you guys.... Keep this $%&+ on topic and quit with the pissing matches PLEASE. I just want to read informative threads, not drama.

Would you prefer that info based upon an inexcusable failure to exercise intelligence or sound judgment not ever be challenged...?

[Jackalope]

You make an excellent point, however, Amsdorf does NOT need to reiterate his same points incessantly, and then post his video on other threads when his thread is directly below it. ALSO some of you other numbnuts need to stop egging him on causing him to CONTINUE posting. I love to read a good debate on different methods, but not when you spend 5 pages of the thread talking about how fat and gay eachother is.

[Amsdorf]

You make a very good point, thanks.

[Huff64]

I guess ill break down and order my CC full tube today. These M4's are rapidly becoming money pits. $1600 for the shotgun, $350 for a C-stock, $180 for a tube. And I still want a red/green dot site system, sureshell shell carrier and maybe a 3 point sling. Guess I need to start playing the lotto. LOL.

[Amsdorf]

Huff, when you go to get snap ring pliers make sure you get this kind:

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947412000P?vName=Tool%20Catalog&cName=AutoSpecialtyTools&sName=Auto%20Hand%20Toolsmv=rr

 

The snap ring in the tube needs to be squeezed together to remove and reinstall, so if you get a "dual purpose" snap ring plier, you'll have more options.

 

I got mine at Home Depot, Vice Grip brand, not very expensive.

[Sukhoi_fan]

You make an excellent point, however, Amsdorf does NOT need to reiterate his same points incessantly, and then post his video on other threads when his thread is directly below it. ALSO some of you other numbnuts need to stop egging him on causing him to CONTINUE posting. I love to read a good debate on different methods, but not when you spend 5 pages of the thread talking about how fat and gay eachother is.

 

Fat and gay is inconsequential, OTOH glaring incompetence isn't. Of course some people suffer from a disability which prevents them from seeing their disability (e.g. incompetence). Google 'something's wrong but you'll never know what it is'

[Amsdorf]

I guess ill break down and order my CC full tube today. These M4's are rapidly becoming money pits. $1600 for the shotgun, $350 for a C-stock, $180 for a tube. And I still want a red/green dot site system, sureshell shell carrier and maybe a 3 point sling. Guess I need to start playing the lotto. LOL.

 

Huff, one other point, when you are installing your CC tube, which you will really enjoy, by the way, if you do not have a bench vice at home, on a workbench, you might want to consider getting one. They are relatively inexpensive and really come in handy for a whole lot of things you'd never think you'd need it for.

[Amsdorf]

Wanted to put in a big plug here for CC and the quality of the product they make, it is really amazing.

[Huff64]

Yeah, Im jelous.

[Amsdorf]

I know. I know.

[Amsdorf]

Not to worry your's will be here soon.

[Amsdorf]

By the way, here is the snap ring plier set I bought:

 

[Amsdorf]

Thanks to everyone who has contacted me about the video, appreciate it, glad to hear it has been helpful to you guys.

[Amsdorf]

Here is a video of the M4 being fired, after modification. Worked like a charm!

 

If any of you have a Benelli M4, I'd love to see pics and here about your experiences, or, for that matter, how many of you have a shotgun you have modified, and if so, how?

 

Here's the video: http://youtu.be/cwBahpQoJJ8?hd=1

 

..

[Amsdorf]

By the way, here is the snap ring plier set I bought:

 

 

 

 

Finally used them and discovered only one set of the tips worked the best for getting that darn snap ring in the tube! Funny how, for me, that's the hardest part of taking down a Benelli M4. Getting the snap ring back in the magazine tube! Go figure.