forzArmata Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 (edited) I know you aren't supposed to lube the pistons on the M4s pistons, and I never have. But...I fu*king hate scraping the carbon off of them after a big range session, and Frog Lube helps in this situation by preventing carbon from adhering to the metal. So, although the manual says to not lube the pistons, what would be wrong with applying a bit of heat and a very light coating of Frog Lube, then wiping it off once soaked in? *If you are unsure how Frog Lube works or you have never used it, please either use it or research it before commenting. It is not like a standard gun oil, which the manual says not to use. The area of the pistons I'm referring to is circled: Thanks for the help! Edited April 23, 2013 by forzArmata Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 The reason lubing the pistons isn't recommended is because it causes a lot of smoke and the lubricant will be burned into carbon. I guess it depends on the Frog Lube. It won't hurt to try to see if it is easier. The only real solution around this is to coat the pistons in NP3 or NiB so you can just wipe the carbon build up off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forzArmata Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 Yes, I was thinking of NP3 but that is a bit of an inconvenience sending my pistons down to get coated, etc... Actually, NP3 may be the answer. I have a fully NP3 coated Sig 228 and it barely needs cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Good looking Sig. I agree. NiB might actually be better since it's a harder finish than NP3. I'd love to get a spare set of pistons; but the price for them is insane. Cleaning the pistons is overrated anyway. They're self cleaning. Excess carbon is scraped off and ends up on the inside of your handguards. Looks like we have the same counter top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forzArmata Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 Excess carbon is scraped off?? How long does that take and how high does the carbon have to build before actually coming loose (and does it fully break off down to the metal like when scraped)? I'm not familiar with NiB - how does it compare to NP3 (or NP3 Plus)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Nickel Boron coating looks similar in color to NP3 or NP3+, it doesn't have the teflon additive in it though. It's a harder surface finish. It's really slick and easy to clean. It's the same as FailZero. The high spots on the pistons are what actually make contact with the barrel assembly. The grooves and are there to trap the carbon. The angled cuts are like cutters that shave away anything that builds up inside the barrel assembly. All the lose carbon you find inside the handguards is carbon that has been scraped away during cycling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-Max Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Right, wrong, or otherwise I lubed my pistons with Eezox. This is an excellent lube that will not coke up. I use it in the bore of my precision varmint rifles etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forzArmata Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 Got my pistons back from Robar. The NP3 is slick as ice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Nice what did that run? If you don't mind me asking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forzArmata Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 I think it was $80 or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Wow. Looks great. 80 bucks is a bit steep though. WMD's Nickel Boron is much cheaper on such a small part. I don't have an exact price, but it is probably under 50 bucks to do both. Probably more like 30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm4sbs Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 SD - Is that where you sent your stuff for burnt bronze? Do they do straight up anodizing? Can you post their website or contact info or PM me? I have some raw aluminium small parts coming before long I will need to have coated. We'll have to chat about that soon, btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forzArmata Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 I'm in over $4500 already so $80 is relatively low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan GSR Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 $4500 ! How? I can only add about $1000 worth of accessories Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forzArmata Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 M4 = $2500 Carrier Comp titanium mag tube Carrier Comp rail FFT titanium charging handle Surefire forend Surefire X300 Ultra w/ QD mount Aimpoint Micro T1 w/ QD mount GG&G bolt release pad Tactical Link sling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forzArmata Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 My math could be off...I'll check my receipts when I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tlon Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 So, does the coating add material to the pistons? Does it affect their performance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forzArmata Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 No and no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tlon Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Very cool. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 I don't believe WMD Guns does anodizing. It isn't listed in their shop services at least. WMD is doing part of my order in Burnt Bronze Cerakote. Sounds like you've got a project going! I've heard others have used US Anodizing with great results. You'll have to contact them to get a price for whatever you want to have done. http://www.usanodizing.com/pricing.htm As for the value of the coatings, it is mostly about easy clean up. Carbon simply wipes off of NP3 or Nickel Boron. SD - Is that where you sent your stuff for burnt bronze? Do they do straight up anodizing? Can you post their website or contact info or PM me? I have some raw aluminium small parts coming before long I will need to have coated. We'll have to chat about that soon, btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benelliwerkes Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 They indeed look sporty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M4-Desert Camo Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 I'm in over $4500 already so $80 is relatively low. I'm getting close to there myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangerDanger Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Are your figures in Canadian dollars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forzArmata Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 Yes, mostly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sig Arms Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 +1 on Robar's NP3+. I had all the controls done on my Sigs. I would caution you on Frog Lube. There are two recent reports of mold growing on Frog Lubed pistols: http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430601935/m/9270041023 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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