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StrangerDanger

Benelli M4 -- Shop Services

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Mike - Yes. I opened it up about as far as physically possible without getting too close to the pin channel for the shell stop. I took the finish down to 2000 grit. It was pretty much mirror finish by that point. The NP3+ covered it perfectly and made it appear factory.

 

I test fired the gun today. Performed perfectly except on some crappy low dram 7.5 shot. That crap doesn't work in any of my M4's reliably either. Went thru a 100 rounds of various slugs and buckshot. Did some slow motion video to see how the action was performing too.

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I'm certain you're going to love it. I really like having the rear sight housing done along with the trigger pack. Even the Geissele hammer and fft Disconnector were done in NP3+. The trigger pack is like holding a piece of glowing billet sterling silver. Not a single piece on it except the tiny disconnector pin (Robar refuses to cost really small pins) is coated. All of the hardware you can't see was also coated like the brackets I made for the Limbsaver buttpad and the pins that hold the collapsible stock together. I disassembled the Argo plugs and had all the components coated except the spring. They even coated the removable choke. And yes, that is a titanium carriercomp magazine tube coated in Np3+.

 

Full reassembly, test fire, cleaning, and mailing it back to the owner took less than a day.

Edited by StrangerDanger

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Have you success with removing RE's from the m4 with red loctite, without excessively heating the receiver? I did one once and had to get it too hot for my comfort, honestly.

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I have not disassembled / re-assembled a M4 barrel extension.

 

My bet is they are very well torqued...think M4/AR. It's a headspace issue, so it's not to be messed with.

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Mike - Yes. I opened it up about as far as physically possible without getting too close to the pin channel for the shell stop. I took the finish down to 2000 grit. It was pretty much mirror finish by that point. The NP3+ covered it perfectly and made it appear factory.

 

It looks good. You did a good job on it.

 

I test fired the gun today. Performed perfectly except on some crappy low dram 7.5 shot. That crap doesn't work in any of my M4's reliably either. Went thru a 100 rounds of various slugs and buckshot. Did some slow motion video to see how the action was performing too.

 

Mine needs 3 Dram or higher. I tried some 2-3/4 Dram (1-1/8 Oz at 1145 FPS) and I was using a single shot shotgun. This of course was during a competition.

 

Mike

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Have you success with removing RE's from the m4 with red loctite, without excessively heating the receiver? I did one once and had to get it too hot for my comfort, honestly.

 

Yes. I've done quite a few. Not just the older M1014's and old 11703's with the neutered receiver extensions, but also new production models for propper coating projects. I use a MAPP torch and focus the heat on the stainless receiver extension. I keep a temp gun handy to keep an eye on the temperature of the receiver.

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My bet is they are very well torqued...think M4/AR. It's a headspace issue, so it's not to be messed with.

 

I'd agree. My guess is they're up above 150 ft. Lbs. They probably use that green locktite too. I notice a lot of the barrel assemblies have witness marks where the extension and the barrel meet. Many of them are not aligned with the witness mark. I assume they had to be adjusted for alignment purposes after assembled.

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It looks good. You did a good job on it.

 

 

 

Mine needs 3 Dram or higher. I tried some 2-3/4 Dram (1-1/8 Oz at 1145 FPS) and I was using a single shot shotgun. This of course was during a competition.

 

Mike

 

 

Thanks. I don't like doing them. It's a little scary taking a metal file to a brand new receiver. Plus it takes like 4 hours. It adds a lot more room to load shells in though. Coupled with that TTI elevator, and you have damn near a competition ready port. Modifications to the shell stop can be dangerous, so I usually avoid those.

 

On the H2O Extreme, I polished the magazine tube on the inside and the end of the shell stop to make loading a little easier without doing any competition style modifications like enlarging the relief cuts to let the metal flex more. The NP3+ on the shell stop also makes it a little easier to load.

 

I have that Federal and Winchester brand Walmart value pack crap. I think it is the Winchester brand that doesn't perform well. The Federal does just fine and cycles properly.

 

AB5A9307-72BB-4653-98FC-743A276F503C_zpsimrm3myy.png

 

Fire some high brass slugs during testing. The slow motion video of the action cyclicing is awesome. It really shows how well the Limbsaver buttpads soak up the recoil and let you stay on target.

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I'd agree. My guess is they're up above 150 ft. Lbs. They probably use that green locktite too. I notice a lot of the barrel assemblies have witness marks where the extension and the barrel meet. Many of them are not aligned with the witness mark. I assume they had to be adjusted for alignment purposes after assembled.

I cannot see how witness marks would ever truly match if they are shooting for a torque number AND alignment. One or the three would HAVE to vary. Better the mark vary, lol

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Yes. I've done quite a few. Not just the older M1014's and old 11703's with the neutered receiver extensions, but also new production models for propper coating projects. I use a MAPP torch and focus the heat on the stainless receiver extension. I keep a temp gun handy to keep an eye on the temperature of the receiver.

 

I really meant to say magazine, not RE. I was tired. Can you re-respond with that in mind, lol? Sorry.

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Still working graves at the hospital?

 

Magazine tubes are easy. I have a Wagner heatgun for those. Just did a members 11707 that is a newer production model last night. The new thread locker is tougher than the old stuff, but it'll break down after 10 minutes or so. Surface temp never got over 275 degrees on the receiver according to the laser temp gun.

 

The H2O I posted above was the same. It started life as a new production 11715 with a polymer trigger pack.

 

I figured they marked them after they assembled them, but I could be wrong. I may buy that barrel extension just to have a look at the construction techniques. I'd love to be able to strip the extension of its ejector for coating. Robar doesn't cost the extension due to the ejector being riveted in place. It's a pretty cheap piece anyway.

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Still working graves at the hospital?

 

Magazine tubes are easy. I have a Wagner heatgun for those. Just did a members 11707 that is a newer production model last night. The new thread locker is tougher than the old stuff, but it'll break down after 10 minutes or so. Surface temp never got over 275 degrees on the receiver according to the laser temp gun.

 

The H2O I posted above was the same. It started life as a new production 11715 with a polymer trigger pack.

 

I figured they marked them after they assembled them, but I could be wrong. I may buy that barrel extension just to have a look at the construction techniques. I'd love to be able to strip the extension of its ejector for coating. Robar doesn't cost the extension due to the ejector being riveted in place. It's a pretty cheap piece anyway.

Yep, different state, different job title, same shifts.

 

I had to get one absurdly hot to get it loose. What do you think of clamping to tube or using oven mits and just torching the mag tube with a propane torch in the middle, that way no heat hits the receiver except through the threads. Minimal impact on receiver, maximal on loctite, and the tube is a write off anyways.

 

If I decide it's more issue that it's worth, what would you charge me to remove the mag tube and ship just the receiver back to me? That's all I'd want, tube removed.

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Could definitely hit the tube with the MAPP torch and let the heat saturate to the receiver. It would minimize the heat exposure to the receiver.

 

I don't think it matters that much, I've gotten the M4 hotter than that just from firing a couple hundred rounds in an hour. That poor ******* of a M4 has been through 14,000 rounds now without issues.

 

I'll PM you some options.

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SD Always does prime work, so I'm sure he would get done whatever you need!

 

That being said, I also used a Wagner heat gun on my relatively-new M4 SBS and it took longer than I would've liked. If you wanted to try it yourself, my issues seemed to be where I was heating instead of how much. Getting the heat in the proper location is more important than getting it super hot

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You saying, "it wasn't smoking like a chimney'? ;) When you're circling the tube with heat, you'll see some light smoke come up when you're on an area heating up the thread locker. You could also pour water over the receiver as you heat the mag tube area if you're worried about it. Or just sit it in a bucket of water.

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I had no vice, just a couple of pot holders and some of those grippy rubber things to help twist and the heat gun (and no good place to lay it)

 

If I can do it, you can too :)

 

Not sure I'd go the water approach, but a good ole fashioned heat and twist and a little hand burning goes a long way!

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I had no vice, just a couple of pot holders and some of those grippy rubber things to help twist and the heat gun (and no good place to lay it)

 

If I can do it, you can too :)

 

Not sure I'd go the water approach, but a good ole fashioned heat and twist and a little hand burning goes a long way!

I wish you all had seen the last one I took apart. Every thread was 100% full of red loctite. It wasn't some tiny dab. It was as though they dipped the mag tube in a vat of the stuff and wiped it off when they were done screwing it in.

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Did some fun new stuff lately mostly for cosmetics. I had the outside visible area of the shell elevator painted in carbon black Cerakote. This particular unit had been coated in NP3+, so we blasted off the exterior only and painted it. Did the same thing to a FFT NP3 coated trigger for the visible area only.

 

EED5DD79-1759-40E3-A66D-EBD74037DAE5_zpsqz0uvlv8.jpg

 

316E21E8-E4FC-42C0-971C-1BC73F779C5E_zpsj8fddblu.jpg

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