Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Vortec MAX

Members
  • Posts

    120
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Vortec MAX

  1. Briley took care of it. Not sure what they replaced, but it came back with a TTI oversized safety button in it still. Safety works now. I cannot drop the hammer while it is engaged. Mike
  2. MIne has the metal housing. It arrives at Briley tomorrow. I will let you know what they say. I am glad to hear Matt's hammer will not fall with the safety on. Maybe something is worn on mine. It does have a lot of rounds through it. Mike
  3. I called them and they want me to send it in to them. Just hope they can get it back before 3-Gun starts up in March. Mike
  4. I actually sent the TTI safety in with my trigger group and asked them to install it while they were installing the trigger. They were done at the same time. I was hoping someone else who is running the Briley trigger could let me know if they can drop the hammer on a different brand of safety. I am not sure if it is the trigger, the safety, or just this particular combination doesn't play well. Mike
  5. I have a Briley trigger and a Taran Tactical extended safety on my Benelli M4. I noticed while cleaning it the other day that I can drop the hammer by either pulling the trigger hard (maybe 12 to 14 pounds of force), or by pressing it several times with less force (it seems to walk its way to a release) while the safety is engaged. I would like some input from others who are running the Briley trigger. Specifically, does your trigger have the same issue? Thanks in advance. Mike
  6. I have the Briley trigger in my M4 and like it. The trigger pull is still heavier than I think is ideal, but I can get the trigger to break when I want it to and the reset is much shorter.Mike
  7. More important than FPS is DRAM EQ. Your M4 should cycle anything with 3 DRAM or above. 3 DRAM is like 1-1/8 oz of shot at 1,200 FPS or 1 oz of shot at 1,250. Mike
  8. New or used? Just curious. For what I have seen some sell for in the past, that could be a bargain. Mike
  9. Thanks SD. I will try the stock handle. I will also buy the detent and spring since they cost so little. Thank you for those links. Mike
  10. I have a Benelli m4 that I use in 3-gun competition. I have a Carrier Comp oversize bolt handle on it. A couple of months ago, I lost the bolt handle during a stage. Luckily I found it. Yesterday, I found it partially pulled out just before I started a stage. It seems like it pulls out easier than it has before.So what does this mean? Is the bolt handle worn out? Do I need a new spring for the detent? The handle does not appear to be excessively worn.Thanks in advance for any advice you might have.Mike
  11. Benelli states slugs should not be shot in a choke tighter than IC. The shotgun ships with a modified, which is tighter than that. I know people have shot slugs through the modified choke and I have not heard of any issues. A modified will deform the slug slightly and that could cause a lot of stress on the choke and end of barrel. I use a Light Modified in 3-gun almost exclusively. It is right between an IC and Modified. I have shot many slugs through it and have not had any issues. The LM is a good compromise between ability to shoot slugs when needed, and the ability to knock over a plate at 20 to 25 yards with 7-1/2 shot if needed. Mike
  12. I run a T-1 with a Midwest Industries low profile mount. I have been using it in 3-gun for about two years. Here is a thread on it that has some pics, including one showing the co-witnessing of the ghost ring sights. Midwest Industries Aimpoint T1/T2 Mount for M4 Mike
  13. They also have them at Brownell's. BUTTSTOCK, SYNTHETIC, M4 STANDARD Mike
  14. I like the M2 for doing everything you listed. I would start with the 24" field and set it up like a 3-gun shotgun (extended mag tube, barrel clamp, oversize bolt knob and bolt release). It would be good for anything in that configuration.
  15. I believe the middle setting is designed to compensate for the thickness of body armor. Mike
  16. There is another thread that is similar to this one. Mike
  17. Cold weather can thicken the oil you use to lube it up which causes a lot of drag on the bolt. I had mine fail to cycle when it was cold outside after it sat in the range rack for a while. You can use a thinner oil when it is cold. That might help. Mike
  18. I got one of my chokes stuck pretty good on my M4. I ruined a Briley choke tube wrench and buggered up the choke tube. I used the stock Benelli choke wrench and tapped the "arms" with a hammer to break it loose. It worked but I bent the arms on my Benelli wrench. This mod seems like a good idea. And it will help it fit in the choke tube box better. Mike
  19. This seems to be the approach of some shooters. I call it "using statistics" to hit stuff. Mike
  20. I have been running my Briley trigger in my M4 for over a year in 3-Gun. No problems so far. Mike
  21. The low rib comes on the Ethos. The sporting rib ramps up near the bead and is slightly taller than the low. The high rib is 0.09" taller than the stock (low) rib and is the tallest available. Mike
  22. I concur with SD about keeping the tube clean and dry (no lube). After a 3-gun competition, it amazes me how much dirt gets tracked into the magazine tube just from feeding shells. After cleaning, I run a dry patch through the mag tube and rub the follower and spring with a silicone impregnated cloth before installing them. On spring length, I know that everyone says to cut the spring 12 to 14 inches longer than the mag tube, but in my experience they will run reliably on less spring than that. I am using the Carrier Comp spring that came with my titanium full length tube, but I am running a plus-two on the end so I can get 9 rounds in the tube. It has functioned perfectly for thousands of rounds in that configuration. My son runs a Stoeger M3K with an extended tube that holds ten rounds and he is using the stock Stoeger spring from the 5 round mag tube without any issues. Just try it out. If it is going to give you problems, it will be on the first shot or last. The spring needs enough strength to rapidly push a full tube full of shells and to push the last one when the spring is almost extended. Mike
  23. The Geissele Aimpoint mount is also 7075. CNC machines don't really care if cuts are curved or straight. Loctite works great on the MI screws. And I drive a Prius instead of an M series because price matters. Is it that big a deal that I think the mount is too expensive? Mike
  24. Generally, I would agree with you. This mount is one piece and has no mating parts, so it is not as complicated to produce as say a one piece cantilevered scope mount. The Midwest equivalent has a street price of about half of the Scalarworks. Even Geissele, who has very expensive parts, has rifle mounts for the Aimppoint that retail for about $95 and can be had for closer to $70 during any of their frequent sales. So to me, they are asking a premium for a mount that might look nicer than the one I am using, but does not really function any better. If I were to see a good deal on a Scalarworks, I would consider changing out the Midwest. At $120, it is just not worth it to me. Are you selling yours? Mike
  25. Can you just exchange for the correct mount? I am interested in a Scalarworks Aimpoint mount because I like the design, but the price has kept me at bay. Can't seem to find a deal on one so my Midwest mount is working just fine for now. Mike
×
×
  • Create New...