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M2 Not recycling


Chris br549

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have a new M2 that is acting very similiar. So far once or twice per outing, the 2nd shell will get stuck halfway between the magazine and the barrel. Often just tapping the reciever handle will get it moving enough to seat the shell. Not all the time but still very annoying for a new gun thats supposed to be of this quality level.

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I’d recommend disassembling your magazine tube and cleaning it. Do not lubricate the magazine at all. It will cause fowling and buffering media inside the shells to collect. Clean the receiver extension and lubricate it with an old that doesn’t cause problems in cold weather. Test your trigger pack removed from the firearm to make sure its components are moving freely without the feeling of grittiness. The hammer should rotate smoothly. 
 

 Be sure your bolt carrier group is clean and well lubricated.  Sing an inertia operated shotgun, fowling can cause performance loss. 
 

Any aftermarket items present on the gun? If so, returning to stock may isolate where the problem is. 
 

If you have a smart phone with a slow motion setting, have someone film the action while you’re firing. This will often give clues to see where a problem is occurring. Such as the bolt not traveling far enough back to properly load a new round. 

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On 12/6/2020 at 9:56 AM, Chris br549 said:

After firing and ejecting one shell, the "door" only halfway closes and another shell is not loaded. How do I fix this? It is an M2. A gunsmith looked at it and said it was fine but it did it again.

What exact load are you shooting? I have a new M2 Tactical and have tested it with 2 3/4 dram 1.25 oz 1145fps target shells and it cycled with impunity. I also have an Ethos with similar action. It would not cycle some very light AA loads. They were like 950fps compared to 1145fps loads that it has never missed.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I have a new M2 tactical.

 

Upgrades: Extended carrier, TT bolt release button and follower, FFT duplicate replacement forend (follower and forend are my 922r parts), GG&G combo sling and light mount with Streamlight TRL-1, Carlson's crio plus cylinder breecher muzzle brake (no teeth), Dave's Metal Works extension for 7+1, and a Nordic components barrel/extension clamp. I'm left-handed and this is a right hander but the throw in front doesn't phase me a bit. I put in the appropriate drop and cast plates for a LH shooter.

 

Put the first 50 rounds through it; 25 Remington Low Recoil LE 00 8 pellet buck at 1200fps and 25 Rio Royal Low recoil 00 9 pellet buck, also 1200. No heavy load "break-in" obviously and not a single issue with cycling. Throwing hulls about 2 feet. Prior to firing I broke it down and thoroughly cleaned everything with Hoppes 9 and then went back in for light oiling on trigger group and bolt rails  as supplied by Benelli and oiled barrel swab followed by dry patch. Even with the brake and stock recoil spring it runs flawlessly so far and with the above loads is grouping at about 4-6 inches at 30 feet with the cylinder brake, with an occasional 7-8 inch flyer.

 

Rio Royal is longer than the listed 2.75 and so can't fit more than 6 in the tube (just a note for info). Slightly wider spread. With the brake and Comfortech the recoil is mild for either round. I had been concerned that the combo brake and low recoil might cause issues but none so far. I would like to try an even  lower velocity round into the 950-1100 range just to see how low it can go and reliably cycle. I also purchased the TT low power recoil spring  but have not installed it yet.

I am not exerting a great deal of pull into my shoulder, just a firm mount and I'm not fighting the recoil. With the brake there is very little rise and it's easy to quickly regain sight.

 

Based on my initial experience I see no reason why the 1150 won't work and if there are issues, perhaps a spring change would fix that if you're set on using the low fps stuff.

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I put a taran tactical recoil spring in mine, as a precaution.  Since, I have added 14oz. to my M2 field and it locks back and cycles without issue.  I am shooting 1050 to 1100fps 1(1/8) reloads.  

Now, there was a lot of oil in the recoil spring tube when I first bought.  If you never cleaned that out and now its turned to grime, I think that can cause friction in the system.  

It is an inertia gun and that force needs to go into cycling the bolt.  So, don't let the gun push you back when firing.  The lighter the load, the less force you have overall, makes proper shouldering even more important.

Edited by electric7
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A lot of the time it comes down to shooting technique. No one wants to hear they’re doing something wrong. Guys sometimes get all butt hurt when I’m instructing and trying to correct a bad habit they have. I have plenty of bad habits myself. Especially when we can’t shoot as much as we should.

It’s not so much a matter of strength. I see it a lot of the time on the range. People allow the shotgun to push their shoulder around. When you’re braced up on the shotgun, you want to provide a solid base for it to recoil against. Not only will the firearm cycle better, but you’ll return to target and regain your sight picture faster.  When you have a weak shoulder, your body robs the firearm of the inertia energy it needs to cycle the action. I catch myself standing improperly all the time or realize I’m not bracing like I should. I can hear the Benelli action cycle differently when I’m not doing my job. Mix in weaker ammo and you have the recipe for cycle failure. 
 

The closer a gun operates to the bleeding edge of function, the easier it is to cause a failure. Examples of this would be AR15’s that people have adjustable gas blocks on. Many set it to where the action just has enough energy to cycle the bolt. Then real life happens and it gets dirty or they’re not holding it firmly and these events rob the energy from the action and cause a failure or the bolt doesn’t lock back on the last round fired. 
 

Another example would be putting more powerful main springs in pistols to reduce perceived recoil.  You’re just tightening the envelope on function and it will bite you eventually. 
 

On the Benelli, you should be listening to the action. Note the difference in how it sounds with full house loads vs Walmart value pack loads. If you can hear the bolt hit the rear and then hear it back in battery, things are operating slow and at the edge of reliability. 
 

Another cool technique for diagnosing problems is to have a buddy film the action in slow motion. Most modern phones have this capability. Often times this will point you in the right direction as to where the problems lie. 

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19 minutes ago, remarkable said:

The biggest problem with many of these threads is the author of the thread never follows up on any details that were asked for nor do they make contact.  I often wonder why some even post on the forum. 

It would nice for the rest of us if people shared how they solved their problem. That’s how this is supposed to work. 

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Thanks Stranger...being aware that technique matters for the inertia, I included a description of what I'm doing. This is likely somewhat subjective based on the shooter. I'm 5'10, 180 with good upper body strength so I guess a better descriptor would be that I'm not "tensed up" while still having the gun firmly braced in my shoulder and leaning slightly in.

New to shotguns and trying to learn and share my real-world application after doing some homework.

Also wanted to add that the above loads are 3 dram 1 ounce.

I'm trying to set a baseline for reliability with an HD round that reduces overpenetration risks to some extent and allows me to add a carrier to the receiver.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Fazak48no4 said:

Thanks Stranger...being aware that technique matters for the inertia, I included a description of what I'm doing. This is likely somewhat subjective based on the shooter. I'm 5'10, 180 with good upper body strength so I guess a better descriptor would be that I'm not "tensed up" while still having the gun firmly braced in my shoulder and leaning slightly in.

New to shotguns and trying to learn and share my real-world application after doing some homework.

Also wanted to add that the above loads are 3 dram 1 ounce.

I'm trying to set a baseline for reliability with an HD round that reduces overpenetration risks to some extent and allows me to add a carrier to the receiver.

 

 

Sounds like you have a good base going. The M2 certainly has more perceived recoil than a M4 due to its lighter weight and action differences. What you can try is the push/pull technique Rob Haught taught. With this, you push forward with your support arm and pull inward with your trigger hand. The overall goal is to keep the buttpad seated in the pocket of your shoulder firmly. You don’t want to be too far over onto the chest either. Make sure the buttpad is fully seated against the pocket. If you have the top or bottom edge of the pad hanging in the air, you’re going to be sending more recoil into a smaller area and more importantly, it allows the firearm to want to rock during recoil. 
 

You have to play with the balance, 65% pull/35% push works for me. Your support arm ends up acting like a shock absorber. You’ll find that you’ll return to your sight picture faster between shots in the event your target needs a follow up kiss. 

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