Wildwest22 Posted January 9, 2022 Posted January 9, 2022 I’d love to see everyones setups, mounts included. Do you run them with a pressure pad or not? Quote
StreetSweeper56 Posted January 9, 2022 Posted January 9, 2022 I run mine as much underneath as I can to avoid "barrel shadow" with a pressure pad so I don't have to fumble searching for the on button. YMMV Quote
Anon4755 Posted January 9, 2022 Posted January 9, 2022 Havent set mine up but thinking about the iwc mount with the pic rail so i can mount the light on the right and use a pressure pad on the left so the light never gets blocked by cover or walls etc and can continuously blind my target. Will do pics when its set up in the future. Quote
Paintguy71 Posted January 10, 2022 Posted January 10, 2022 (edited) IWC mount with a Cloud Defensive Rein Micro. Edited January 10, 2022 by Paintguy71 Quote
iamrt Posted January 10, 2022 Posted January 10, 2022 I went with the Clear Anodized Rein Standard on IWC. Used Ranger bands to hold the switch at the end of the OEM handguard. They're tight enough to hold the switch in place. Still need to shoot with it though. Quote
Dkay67 Posted January 10, 2022 Posted January 10, 2022 My M4 currently disassembled while waiting for parts to return from Np3 coating, but can show the basic setup of my WML Handguard - Agency Arms Mlok Lightner extension - TRex Arms made by Arisaka Light - Modlite Pressure Switch- Unity Tactical Quote
nyc71 Posted March 11, 2022 Posted March 11, 2022 On 1/10/2022 at 6:05 AM, Paintguy71 said: IWC mount with a Cloud Defensive Rein Micro. Would you mind posting the other side to see how you secured the tape switch? Thank you Quote
Dkay67 Posted March 11, 2022 Posted March 11, 2022 43 minutes ago, nyc71 said: Would you mind posting the other side to see how you secured the tape switch? Thank you There isn't a tape switch in this pic. Its likely a end-cap button at the tail of light 1 Quote
StrangerDanger Posted March 11, 2022 Posted March 11, 2022 I hate the attachment system of this rail, but it does offer me the perfect light mounting solution for my use. I can’t have barrel shadowing since my IR lamp head will blow back on me and interfere with my monocular. So pushing the light flush with the muzzle is necessary. I’ve hated every tape switch in existence after owning pretty much all of them from the various Surefire switches to the nicer Taps switches and Modlite buttons. They all perform poorly and don’t really have a constant on setting which you do need at times. Plus the wires are snag hazards and easily damaged. So I finally got my hands on a Unity Tactical HotButton. This thing is amazing! It has the tactile feel of a Z68 tailcap that you can orientate how you like. You can direct the wires downward thru the rail if heat isn’t an issue to protect the wire. For me, pulling the activation button to the rear is far more comfortable than reaching forward to hit the button. You’re a lot less likely to injure your thumb during heavy recoil of 12 gauge pulling to the rear than reaching forward. I broke nails, sprained my thumb and generally had a bad time reaching forward for the switch. Once your thumb is wanged good, you find your ability to reload a shotgun to suffer greatly or force you to reload with your strong hand instead. I was always trained to mainly use momentary light output and as little as possible. Basically illuminate, assess, light out, move if possible or fire. Just constant stick and move. If you’re just shooting pigs, this doesn’t matter as much as on a two way range. Light output is less important if you’re using IR, unless you believe your threat may possess night vision equipment. The Truckee rail is way too smooth. I’ll add some textured rail covers that are easy to remove like the Magpul or BCM panels. Due to the dumb design of the Truckee, you must remove all mounted items from the MLOK in order to pull it off of the barrel assembly in order to access the Argo system. Really retarded design. Fortunately you can still pull the barrel out of the receiver to access the bolt carrier. The longer handguard works for me since I have longer arms than most. The oem forend always felt a little short for me. Angled front sling mounts make slinging the Benelli more comfortable. The sling binds less and it helps keep the shotgun from wanting to roll away from your body when you’re hands off. Less than an inch of exposed wire. I may notch the rail to reduce the exposed part even more. Ideal light position on the Arisaka offset MLOK mount. This pulls the light head into the space between the barrel and the magazine tube reducing how much the light sticks out from the firearm. hotButton wire routed down inside of the rail. I drilled out one of the MLOK sockets so that the 1/2” wire plug could be passed thru the rail internally. This works fine on the Benelli, but wouldn’t work on rifles like an AR15 due to the heat. The excess wire loops along the bottom of the magazine tube to keep it away from the barrel. Quote
Paintguy71 Posted March 18, 2022 Posted March 18, 2022 On 3/11/2022 at 10:02 AM, nyc71 said: Would you mind posting the other side to see how you secured the tape switch? Thank you No switch on this one, just using the end cap. Quote
Jaason0 Posted August 1, 2022 Posted August 1, 2022 I like inforce WMLX light. It sits close to my shotgun and is very easy to hit with my thumb. It is bright and pretty durable. I like them so much I have one on my Daniel Defense V7 pistol too. They are well thought out and made to make it easy to turn on. Quote
Unobtanium Posted August 1, 2022 Posted August 1, 2022 1 hour ago, Jaason0 said: I like inforce WMLX light. It sits close to my shotgun and is very easy to hit with my thumb. It is bright and pretty durable. I like them so much I have one on my Daniel Defense V7 pistol too. They are well thought out and made to make it easy to turn on. That wml is on the 1913 section? How solid does it lock up? Is it just a thumb wheel, or...? How many rounds on it? How is the light head isolated from battery stack shock? Is it programmable to only be momentary or rid of strobe or only be constant on or..? Quote
Jaason0 Posted August 1, 2022 Posted August 1, 2022 (edited) 19 hours ago, Unobtanium said: That wml is on the 1913 section? How solid does it lock up? Is it just a thumb wheel, or...? How many rounds on it? How is the light head isolated from battery stack shock? Is it programmable to only be momentary or rid of strobe or only be constant on or..? I have a IWI QD mount and fastlight mount. It locks in super easy and super crazy comfortable. It isn t as solid as some other lights but i like it a lot. It sits close to ur gun and it is made for easy use. It has a momentary on and off, regular on and off, and strobe. It is super easy to use. I hate the wml but the wmlx are one of my favorite light. I have prob 300 rds of buckshot, slugs, and birdshot. It doees have thee wheel that secures it but it is kinda like a clamp. It is pretty secure. It is bright too. They are so streamline and isn t in the way at all. Edited August 1, 2022 by Jaason0 1 Quote
Av12g Posted August 2, 2022 Posted August 2, 2022 (edited) its a little out of focus but heres mine. Surefire M300 with a DS00 and Haley strategic thorntail mount on a surefire M80. Edit: this is probably a better photo to use Edited August 2, 2022 by Av12g Quote
Unobtanium Posted August 2, 2022 Posted August 2, 2022 I've tried many configurations, and this just keeps being my favorite for day/night and low/no light. 1 Quote
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