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Benelli Cust Service - SBE II Jams - Response


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Well, a while back many were concerned about their SBE II's jamming at different times. I wrote to say I had the same issues and was going to contact Benelli and send it back for warranty check.

 

 

My 'jams' included not loading up a new round, in some cases, kicking a live round out after the first shell was shot...and stove piping of a shell.

 

So, I sent it in after an easy phone call and getting their authorization. The gun retuned with a complete invoice on what they did:

 

They replaced the Recoil spring inside the recoil tube - which is inside the stock and they replaced the ejector spring as well.

 

Then, they adjusted the Ejector and the safety and the forend...and completely cleaned the gun.

 

 

The forend adjustment is to make it easier to remove and put back on. From the factory it does not come off easily and they do this adjustment on all guns they work on so it can be removed easier.

 

 

They test fired the gun with 2 3/4 inch, 3 inch and 3 1/2 inch shells (Kent, Remington and Federals). I had told them I shot Kents and Remingtons.

 

They also told me the most important thing for the future is to oil the Recoil Sprig assembly. The recoil spring sits inside a tube...and on top of the spring is the silver plunger. You should not ever try to remove the spring, but do need to clean and oil it well to work.

 

The way to clean Recoil Assembly:

 

1. Take the gel pad off and take barrel off.

2. Use 13 mm socket with extension to remove the nut.

3. On the other side of the nut is a lock washer and shim, lock plate. Be sure to note how the shims are installed so you can put it back together as you found it.

4. Then you will have the tube (with spring and plunger inside)

5. Liberally use Gun Scrubber to spray inside the tube - Hold the plunger down 1/2 half way and get scrubber inside. Work plunger up and down a bit.

6. The bottom of the recoil tube has a small drain hole. Continue to spray gun scrubber inside the tube until you see the drain has clearer oil coming out. If black, it is not clean yet.

7. Then, place Break free oil or Rem Oil inside the tube and wait until you see a small bit drain out of drain hole. You want the tube to be oiled well.

8. Replace all parts AS THEY WERE....and clean the rest of the gun, barrel, bolt, trigger assembly etc - and good to go.

 

The recoil tube assembly does not need to be done each time but should be done once in a while to keep the spring clean and oiled.

 

 

I have not fired it yet but I am sure this will help me greatly.

 

My safety was also 'tight' and it took a lot to click it on and off. They adjusted that for me too.

 

 

Anyway, I promised to advise what happened and that’s it.

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AS Tucker said great report.

 

As a rule I take my M2 apart and remove, clean and inspect the recoil spring and plunger every year after hunting season.

 

It is not to difficult. You have listed most of the instructions on how to do it. The one thing that I do when I take it apart is to insert a banana plug into the small hole to keep the spring compressed during dissassembly and assembly. For those of you not familliar with this type of plug, it is what is on the end of meter leads for volt meters. They wont hurt the gun and are pretty cheap and easy to find at Radio Shack.

 

I use a 410 swab to clean out the tube and to oil it as well. Then use a light oilling of the spring with a patch and reassemble.

 

 

This only adds about 20 minutes to the total cleaning time for the gun,

 

 

Mike

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Do yourself a favor and junk the remoil!! too many quality lubricants to be using that stuff!! Great post and seems that a gun that needs less cleaning than others gets cleaned!! never hurts to start with a good cleaning and lube, just depends how its done and how thorough you are when ya do do it!! good info!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great to hear all is well!! The best part is that i learned from just reading your reply!! maybe someone else will read your post and learn also, cleaning a shotgun is a work in progress and most think they know all, but are pleasantly surprised when you post great info as you have! Thanks!:D

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  • 1 year later...

Although I had read numerous posts about how Benelli SBE II's were the most expensive single shot shotgun in the world, I talked myself into buying one last month. I took it out last Friday afternoon (warm nice weather) and shot it 3-4 times, just to make sure it was working. Everything was fine. On Saturday morning I went duck hunting. It was cold (about 25 degrees F). I made a passing shot at a drake and missed and when I pulled the trigger again nothing happened. The gun had jammed - the spent shell was hanging halfway out of the gun.

 

I had shouldered the gun properly. The shells were of the expensive store-bought variety (not reloads). The gun was brand new.

 

I was sick. Here I had paid $1500 for a shotgun ($1600 with tax) and it jammed on the first shot.

 

I have been shooting a Browning 12 gauge semi-automatic since 1968 and have never had a jam. I have probably shot 4-5 boxes/year for 40 years through that gun (over 5000 shells). Never jammed once.

 

Yet this brand new Benelli jammed on the first shot. It really made me sick.

 

Would anyone want to buy a slightly used SBE II?

 

Thanks,

 

Arkansas Man

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Well, a while back many were concerned about their SBE II's jamming at different times. I wrote to say I had the same issues and was going to contact Benelli and send it back for warranty check.

 

 

My 'jams' included not loading up a new round, in some cases, kicking a live round out after the first shell was shot...and stove piping of a shell.

 

So, I sent it in after an easy phone call and getting their authorization. The gun retuned with a complete invoice on what they did:

 

They replaced the Recoil spring inside the recoil tube - which is inside the stock and they replaced the ejector spring as well.

 

Then, they adjusted the Ejector and the safety and the forend...and completely cleaned the gun.

 

 

The forend adjustment is to make it easier to remove and put back on. From the factory it does not come off easily and they do this adjustment on all guns they work on so it can be removed easier.

 

 

They test fired the gun with 2 3/4 inch, 3 inch and 3 1/2 inch shells (Kent, Remington and Federals). I had told them I shot Kents and Remingtons.

 

They also told me the most important thing for the future is to oil the Recoil Sprig assembly. The recoil spring sits inside a tube...and on top of the spring is the silver plunger. You should not ever try to remove the spring, but do need to clean and oil it well to work.

 

The way to clean Recoil Assembly:

 

1. Take the gel pad off and take barrel off.

2. Use 13 mm socket with extension to remove the nut.

3. On the other side of the nut is a lock washer and shim, lock plate. Be sure to note how the shims are installed so you can put it back together as you found it.

4. Then you will have the tube (with spring and plunger inside)

5. Liberally use Gun Scrubber to spray inside the tube - Hold the plunger down 1/2 half way and get scrubber inside. Work plunger up and down a bit.

6. The bottom of the recoil tube has a small drain hole. Continue to spray gun scrubber inside the tube until you see the drain has clearer oil coming out. If black, it is not clean yet.

7. Then, place Break free oil or Rem Oil inside the tube and wait until you see a small bit drain out of drain hole. You want the tube to be oiled well.

8. Replace all parts AS THEY WERE....and clean the rest of the gun, barrel, bolt, trigger assembly etc - and good to go.

 

The recoil tube assembly does not need to be done each time but should be done once in a while to keep the spring clean and oiled.

 

 

I have not fired it yet but I am sure this will help me greatly.

 

My safety was also 'tight' and it took a lot to click it on and off. They adjusted that for me too.

 

 

Anyway, I promised to advise what happened and that’s it.

What a great, informative post! Bravo, Duckfan! Hope to hear more from you in the future. I would be interested to see what info you might pass along to Arkansas Man (above post)... could it be an oil/grease problem aggravated by cold temperature? (We don't get that cold down here so I have NO experience with such.) Wonder if this is the old "packing grease" problem associated with new guns that I have read about on this forum?

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I was told by a gun expert that the reason for the "stovepiping, rounds hanging out", is that the gun is not properly seated against the shoulder and can also be caused by over the head shots......Could be the shells also......I'd buy that gun in a heartbeat!!

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Mine is on the way back to benelli for the 3rd time with the same problems. I've been through the cleanings, different oils and different shells too. I think that there is an under laying problem with some of the sbe IIs that may be causeing this that they can't figure out. The magnum rounds that I shoot should have plenty of power to cycle. Not all of these guns are haveing these problems only a few. Duck season is over now so they have plenty of time to work the bugs out while I fish. Good luck with yours and maybe they've figured the problem out and can fix mine too.

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I just posted on the main forum about mine doing the samething, Looks like I am not the only one! My safe may have a Xtrema sitting were were my SBE now sits if I cant find a fix soon. Or Maybe a browning Maxus! I cant stand losing sailed birds do to a Jam!

 

Kurt

Edited by KRL
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