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they might take care of it for you, but i wouldnt have accepted it if iy was damaged.

Wouldn't be terribly difficult to drill them with a drill press. I'll definitely review it when it comes in. I doubt I'd bother to replace an OEM 3 position tube with one of these 6 position extensions at the current price point, but it would be worth upgrading a M1014 if you need a functional extension anyway.

I don't feel its necessary for the staking. It was probably some military requirement that wasn't actually needed from LPA. The pin's fit is tight, so there isn't much risk of it coming out on its own. If you use a brass hammer or punch, it should prevent you from marring the NP3 finish. It would be safe to say that removal of that pin is my least favorite part of tearing down an M4. Followed closely by the bolt extractor claw's pin.

That pin is a bitch, but it is possible to remove. Some are worse than others depending on how overzealous Benelli got when staking around the ends of the pin. Plan on busting punches and definitely wear eye protection since punches are quite energetic when they fragment under hammering. Another issue is the pin is such a small diameter that you can't really deliver a lot of hammer force to the pin without risking bending the punch. I did buy a set of short punches to get the pin moving. I've still broken these little punches fighting with that pin. I've broken tons of Starrett punches on that bastard. I usually use a 12 ounce brass hammer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H407C1O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've found the best way to drive it out is to clamp the rear sight housing into a padded vice on the sides of the housing. That way the pin is horizontal above the vice jaws and you can hammer on it going against the jaws. If you're hammering in a direction that will allow the housing to pivot in the jaws, you'll never get it out. Once the pin drifts a small amount, you can then switch to a longer punch to finish driving it out. Getting the pin back in is much easier than getting it out. It will still be retained tightly by the staking present on the housing, so the risk of it falling out is almost non-existent.

It is staked in place. Easiest route is just to just buy the pin and block. If you remove the pin it will basically be worthless if you sell it. https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/70066

Nothing like getting some $300 c stocks for my projects.Putting qds and pads on them now

I thought I would show the finished product. Now I have my original trigger with no modifications and my new trigger with all the upgrades I mentioned at the beginning of this post. Thanks to Stranger Danger for the help. Some side by side pictures below.

That was fast! Its back after being fixed by Benelli. Invoice shows pin and spring installed and then test fired with no malfunction.

My husband got his Winchester Shotgun out for opening day of Dove season in 2 days. The stock was so sticky you could hardly let go of it. I read your post and thought I'd try the paste of baking soda and water because he planned to buy Camo tape to cover it when he gets home. It worked really well. Took a little elbow grease but came off. I called and told him I had cleaned it and he was so excited.....That's just the kinda wifey I am!

The 1014 has a thick military barrel (thicker than the M4, I believe) and no interchangeable chokes are used or available. One size fits all, including slugs. The M1014 barrel more closely replicates the military gun in use than the M4, except of course civilians are not allowed the collapsible stock. It also is a limited edition run (2500) designated by the laser-etched American Flag on the receiver. The M4 is basically the same gun in a larger production run but uses interchangeable chokes in a thinner-walled barrel, something unlikely to be used in a tactical military environment.