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I have two m4’s and one 1301 LE. I love my Benellis, but the 1301 does better with lower loads; not even one hiccup after firing about 500 rds this week. It’s a great weapon that hopefully will soon be combat proven by the US Military.

Seems like a headache with anything FFT sells. I never heard one positive thing from FFT. I guess the one positive is hes from commiefornia and its easy to avoid those kind of people? Lol.

This will be for those of you who do not want a clamp style mount that attaches directly to the barrel and/or shell tube. Required tools & hardware: - Dremel & cutoff wheel - Vise - File - 20mm-25mm o-ring - GG&G Benelli M2 sling and flashlight mount - Your light of choice that will mount to a pic rail Since the GG&G M2 light mount has a smaller scalloped cut than what is required to fit on the M3, some cutting and shaping is required: Start out by using the original sling mount as a stencil for tracing out the required cut out size onto the GG&G mount for a reference when cutting with a dremel [Figure 1]. Once the outline is traced, use a dremel to remove material [Figures 2, 3]. Once the rough shape is cut out, use a file to remove burrs and slowly and precisely shape the cut. Be sure to test fit often, as you do not want to make an oversized cut and have a loose fitting part [Figure 4]. Once this part is complete, it’s time to move on to the original sling mount. This will still be required to ensure the shell tube nut has a ratcheted engagement. I chose to remove the sling mount with the dremel, but this is not required if you’d like to have additional sling mounts on your shotgun [Figure 5]. All parts should now properly fit. When test fitting, you may have noticed that the GG&G mount is loose and may rattle even when the tube nut is tightened down. This is where the o-ring is used. It will evenly fill the gap and provide for a secure fit. Slide the o-ring onto the tube as far as it will go on the threads until it butts up against the barrel block [Figure 6]. Then install the GG&G mount, then the original sling mount, and then the tube nut. Add your flashlight if choice (the lighter the better as to decrease the possibility of a malfunction due to the recoil operating system) [Figures 7-10].

Don't like the 1.5" offset from the barrel. Their have been a number of good setups in the past, AVA tactical mount being one of them. Pretty easy to mount a picatinny rail to a factory rail panel as well. That said I like a SureFire forend tri-rail.

I just got a rmr on my new 34. I sprung for the plate. Was only $10 for my setup. For a $500 rig that's nothing

I have put around 8k shots through my Benelli m4, about 5k of them being light loads, never had a single issue with even fiocchi, which a lot seem to have issues with, or claim to. Been flawless.

I ain’t got time to hand fit parts, especially not on some silly handguards. Hand fitting the trigger and hammer on a 5000$ atlas gunworks 2011. Sure, that makes sense. The gunsmith should be doing that.

I’ve fit a bunch of those FFT forends. I use a big flat metal file and remove material from the end closest to the muzzle. It’s a lot of trial and error to fit them since you don’t want to remove too much material. I use the seat ring at the base of the barrel to determine if the forend fits or not. Once I can’t slide a piece of paper between the ring and the receiver, I know it’s good to go. Without doing this, you could end up with light primer strikes since the bolt won’t fully rotate and lock into the barrel lugs.

That is like a perfect fit.

blitzkrieg components

I enjoyed Mike’s review of both M4 and 1301. With Limbsaver pads on both, recoil isn’t bad on either. I love both of mine. Wonder why there’s so much shotgun love lately.