Unobtanium

Can you confirm the amount torque and whether or not you used a threadlocker on the acro to adm juncture?

A recent P&S Podcast saw a lot of trainers saying it was probably the worst buckshot they've seen for consistency. Try it in YOUR GUN before stacking it deep.

1) whatever cycles reliably and costs least for you to get ahold of. 2) See #1, but add "is reasonably accurate". 3) LE133 or LE132. LE133 will pattern tighter, LE132 adds another hole in the target. 4) LEB127 or LE127RS. I prefer LE127RS due to reduced fouling and IMO, better terminal performance per Le Vista's website gel testing. Use a CYL choke if you don't have the Entry model (which is CYL by default). If you have an M1014 with a fixed MOD choke, the slug recommendations still stand, but the buckshot will take some work, as the flite control may not be your best performer.

The furry part whatever you want that works. The shell holding elastic part? Vang Comp is the only one I like. Ive used esstac and soe, and the Vang is night and day better.

This is why I velcro it to the gun. Sidesaddle. You're going to use what you've got, and what you've gots the gun. Where I live, there is no help. LE may or may not respond, and if they choose to, its 45 minutes minimum.

As an update to this, I've purchased a Surefire XVL2-IRC to fill this role. It looks to fit the IWC mount perfectly, and I will see if it works for this application. By the end of next week my short term eval of it will be done. Here is the X300U placeholder. The toggle switches are NOT to be ridden during recoil. Toggle the light on, engage the target, toggle it off. If you want to use them to flash-bulb, then run your thumb off to the side of it and apply pressure toward the head of the light with the pad of your thumb. This way recoil will bypass your thumb. Do NOT press with the tip of the thumb trapping it behind the light. This will "get you" with anything on a gauge.: *How horrible...my circa @2015? X300U head is brown/purple. Just noticed. #PurpleHeadedLumenSlinger

Just what the title says. This is a NIB scalarworks SYNC for a t2 aimpoint. Payment is via check. Shipping is included, USPS priority, conus only. $110 TYD.

I use 3 methods. -Velcro shotgun side saddle (easily removed when weight is a concern, and it velcroes...so vests, etc. hold it. -Stripper type apparatus like the Progressive Machine and Tool pictured in a post further up. I keep 2 on a belt, one with slugs, one with buck. -Vietnam USGI M60 pouch. I use this when I want to go shooting in my yard. Dump a few boxes of slug and buck into it, and then pick up my hulls and put them in it when done. It's not the most secure, but for just patterning or whatnot, it works great as a way to tote the ammo for non-uber-dynamic stuff.

You will need a mount for it. It does not interface with 1913.

Honestly, I have moved away from the SW mounts, because they are predicated on using a 14.25" LOP stock, which is absurd unless I'm using NODS, and then it helps me get my face off the gun, as well as having more built in height (due to the 15.5* slope of the recoil tube and the stock's movement along it). I prefer a C-stock run at the mid setting, which is in the goldilocks zone for 5'6"-6'2" or so people, of about 12" LOP. Under NODS, I will extend it to 14.25" for the room off the gun as well as to "increase optic height". When you run an SW mount, though, it puts you too low for a 12" LOP with the C-stock's cheek-weld. What I have moved to is proper 1913 rails + ADM Ti QD mounts. This is perfect on the 12" LOP, and a bit high (but not bad, it equates to about 2.1-2.2" optic centerline on an AR15) fully extended C-stock, which is PERFECT for NODS and passive aiming. Or just a heads-up position if that's your thing without NODS. Also, just chill on adapter plates. I keep hearing nothing but bad about them from the handgun guys. Keep an eye on SW if that's you're thing. I doubt they ignore the P2.

Holosun is still iffy on their glass coating and brightness setting for nods. Id go with acro p2 until that is sorted.

Spend the money on this, and see what douchebag rule magically appears once again.

Did it remain stable and in place?

My point was to highlight that anodize variance has always been a thing. Check out your trigger guard and stock tube. Those are actually black, as is the rail on top.

I think the world is kindof in a odd place, firearm wise. The riots and all that jazz got everyone pretty saturated who wasn't.

Bump

Wow. Benelli's new QA/QC. Oof. These new receivers are BLUE!

This is not new. Its been a thing for many years.

Starting in 2008, I've owned about 10 Benelli m4s, purchased throughout the years. Some had greenish phosphate Some had very rough bores in the piston housing Some had crooked FSP (One, Benelli replaced on their dime). Some had anodizing that was chipping off on the inside of the receiver. Some had visible machine marks in the upper. The only "new" thing to me post covid are crooked recoil tubes. These need watching out for. Otherwise? All of these complaints fall within "variances Ive experienced."

ESD. I hard mount the sling at the back though vs using QD.

It's to the point where I only buy from authorized dealers, or from people who got the items from authorized dealers/know the provenance of the item.

Consider that this is a smoothbore shotgun. I have yet to see <5moa slug groups from anyone past 50 yards with it.

I reached out to a few people. One has 20K rounds on the original ACRO, on a Benelli M2 (competition gun), and did not use threadlocker, or a torque wrench, just installed it with allen/torx, and it has not loosened a bit.

Rich has nothing to do with it. How would Warren Buffet react to not getting what he paid for?