Unobtanium

Don't look a gift horse in the mouth. Do you know what kind of equipment he invested in to be able to properly harden the A2 tang? I am positive that he treats things other than a few dozen A2 bolt tangs a week in it. His setup isn't cheap, and he probably hasn't made beans off those bolt-handles, certainly less than a few % of the cost of the setup he has for it. Kip makes M4 parts for us because he likes to. He wants to. He enjoys the exercise of creating perfection, and feels that the M4 is a good niche platform to express that, and he is a guy who likes to help others. Not sure if serious on boycotting his muted finished handles or if it was a joke, but his wallet isn't really worried about M4 bolt-handle sales. It's a labor of love and we owe him a thank-you, not limp-wristed ultimatums. For Kip, building these parts is about expression and enjoyment, not profit and margins.

It is nothing like the ARGO system. I just did a quick search of it. IT has a lot of ports, the length of the shell covers some when the crimp blows out on the 3 and 3.5" stuff regulating the gas. This is not a Benelli feature and is so different from how Benelli manages things that Benelli would owe way more money than they would be owed if they viewed a few mild similarities as infringement.

The triggers on my M4S90's have all been VERY good for a shotgun. I am fine with current performance levels. If you want to worry about the trigger breaking at a crisp 3# and feeling that it not doing so is a limitation, I think you have overlooked your detachable barrel secured with a large nut.

The Geissele hammer will be typical Geissele quality, you can rest assured. However, the OEM part that it will interface with...will be OEM. No matter how "awesome" the hammer is, it will be "ham strung" by the OEM parts it interfaces with. I would expect a VERY minimal decrease in pull weight and a TINY bit crisper break. Maybe. If you have a New M4 and a new Geissele hammer, it probably wouldn't be as slick as an all stock M4 with 10K rounds of polishing through it. This is an affordable, QUALITY 922r replacement part. View it as such and you will be happy. Later on, Geissele MAY produce an entire set of fire-control components. Since the M4's fire-control setup is made to be robust, and not necessarily "nice", the design of some parts may change so that the hammer you buy NOW will not work with the rest of the workings THEN. That is because Geissele is not going to field a product that is not flawless, and neither will Kip. Don't worry about that. It's a long ways off, and not certain at all. Either you want a 922r compliant part and you buy this hammer, or you don't. Don't buy it thinking you will have some trigger-job in a bag. It's a great part, but that's like saying replacing the lifters in your corvette will make it the same as a LeMans car. Not quite. That is my understanding having spoken to Kip, owned AR's with SSA triggers from Geissele, and had several M4S90's over a few years time.

Try 3-4 brands in choke constrictions from IC to MOD and you will find a combo that works for you. A shotgun does not have one load that it likes, and each one is different. Some things I HAVE noticed out of the small sampling of M4S90's I have owned: They all did very well with 2.75" 8-pellet 000 Buck of most any brand (only 2 exist that I could get, Remington and Federal. I prefer remingtons as they are sealed and "nicer" looking and not as lumpy, if you will) and an IC to MOD choke (different ones liked different chokes). They also liked the 1oz "Sluggers" at 1560fps through IC to MOD, I noticed no difference.

Yes, but XM-L drivers right now for the LED module I am using only goes to 6V max before it fries the module from what I understand. There is so much technical mumbo jumbo that I tell my guy what I want and/or read what others got that does what I want, and just ask for him to make it and trust that he gets it right. He never hasn't.

Keepin' tabs on your gear! I'm going to start doing what Stickman does when I build something and watermark the pix.

So far: -M4 Col. stock has arrived. -Vltor SM-CK mount has arrived. -Magpul rail covers have arrived. -Tango Down Shorty VFG has arrived. -Surefire 6P finished in IIIA Ano matte black w/stainless black bezel ring, upgraded switch (much larger contact area/capacity switch) and Surefire Pyrex lens has arrived. (Still waiting on 550+ measured OTF Lumen warm (4K tint) 2.8 amp LED module to arrive). Other parts are on order, but my list is coming together... 0-150m dominance night/day.

Thankyou, my stock arrived as promised, buy with confidence! Flawless transaction.

From what i hear that tube is made of a material that will make your Dremel it's *****. I personally would not attempt it for fear of scarring things up as the dremel bounces out of the groove you are trying to make in that stuff. Why do you want more? Are the 3 offered not good enough for your positionally, or do you just want it to be tacticool? If the latter, nevermind it. If the former, find a machine-shop and have them machine one bought from Numrich or somewhere and then install that if all goes well. OR do it yourself or try to if you want. I don't know your capabilities, but "a quick outing with the dremel" is not likely to go well and I don't think you should do it on your only recoil tube. Buy a spare and install that when you get done machining it to your liking.

This is correct. However, I have also experienced this failure when using magnum 2.75" 12-pellet buckshot or 3" buckshot on the last or second to last rounds even when fired from a solid grip aimed horizontal. Point is, use Kip's spring. Like everything else he does, that spring is perfect. It is made by Wolff and spec'ed by Kip to proper wire diameter and coil number to allow correct magazine capacity, long life, and the appropriate pressure right down to empty.

Does not exist unless you want something barrel-mounted. I am getting some parts togather for an M4S90 build again and ordered a Surefire M80, some Magpul railcovers, a Tango Down shorty VFG, and already have a modded Surefire 6P that I plan on running in an in-line mount at the 9 o-clock position. I just placed an order with the guy who builds my LED modules for a 575 OTF lumen XM-L P60 module with a 4000K warm/neutral tint. The XM-L's are new and while I love the SST-50, the XM-L is supposed to be a lot more efficient and have the wonderful tint I love in the XP-G binning. More of a cream-color than a rose-color. Surefire's lights are all outdated. Find mounting hardware and mount your own. The best I think that exists currently is the SFM80 system with a modded 6P like what I plan on attaching. Of course, tint, output, beam profile, run-time, etc. can all be tailored to your liking/purpose. I wanted something to reach out 150+ yards and light up a football field while still giving a half hour or so run-time. You may want more, or less.

I have broken them in with 3" goose loads, and I have broken them in with 2.75 DRAM target loads. Lube the BCG/Rails with TW25B and hold it steady and it should cycle darn near anything you want to put in it.

Very nice. I like the TD shorty, though. Simple, and solid as an anvil. Do not forsee the need to remove it and shred my hand on the rail, lol

Your M4/M80 will shred a $100 FUG. You need a Tango Down. It has full cross-bars. Anyway, from what you are saying, a mild trim of the rubber (optional) is all that prevents the M80 from fitting PERFECT and you have seen 0 interference with the pistons, yes?

Looks good! Have you tried a VFG? Why did you get rid of it, if so?

So what about all these people whining about their barrels not seating properly? http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php/23523-Surefire-M80-Issue Buy once, cry once, I am trying to figure out if I want to do this or not : /

How is the fit? I have read a lot about people filing/cutting even with the new M80.

Have you dumped ammo through it rapid-fire for 50-100 rounds? Does the rubber contacting the barrel cause issue? I have seen that even the new M80 does not fit correct and needs dremeling. What's up with that? I would run with a TD VFG stubby and some good rail covers if I bought.

I wonder what the trigger will feel like from them. I have one of their SSA triggers in an AR and it would be absurd in a shotgun. Make you want to put a scope on it.

Did they change things to alleviate the piston-binding issue? I remember it used to be quite the hot topic. http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php/15449-Surefire-M80-Rails-on-M4-M1014?highlight=M80+piston ^Pix of problem included. Does your rail look to have been re-designed since this iteration? Apparently *something* has changed. '11 M80 Early '09/Late '08 M80: Note: Here can be seen some issue with the old version: This is the result of 150 rounds over 3 hours. (not sure how fast they were fired and if it was 100 rounds in 5 minutes and the rest over the rest of the time or what, though). http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/DanHuu1225/IMG_0056.jpg

is the M80 rail re-designed where it will not hit pistons on the 11707?

Nope, I run a V1 integrated with my HUD/DIC system and it's very awesome. On the middle position with the OEM stock + irons I bruise my jaw. I have to extend to the full position when I go to irons. BTDT with an optic before (before the mount sheared the foot to **** and my zero kept changing and I noticed).

If you really want a black knob just buy some KG gunkote or something. Applying a coating is no big deal. It's the titanium and A2 and the shaping that I can't do for myself.

I would go with a MOD choke. They will be fine.